Some kid asked me to race...

Matt37

Member
Some punk that lives near me has a 200 Mustang GT he just picked up.

He thinks he is the man, and he always makes fun of me for driving a GN.

The other day he said "Why would anyone want a 20 year old granny car".

And I told him this granny car will smoke him, he said absolutely not.

Would I be able to beat a 06 GT by alot... It is rated at 300 BHP.

Should I race him??
 
By "a lot", I don't know, but I think you'd probably win. I've beat older GTs before, so unless the 06 GT is a huge improvement or something, shouldn't be any different. Win or lose, at least owning a "granny car" is better than owning a car where you'll see the same thing drive past you 8 times in two miles of driving.
 
Really hard to answer the question bro. All I can tell is you (I assume) own a GN. But I have no idea what you have into it? Is it a hot air, Ic'ed, Stage car, etc?

Go to "USER CP"
Click "EDIT SIGNATURE"
Add all the goods about your car and save it. Then we can tell you how much money to bet and win on this race! ;)
 
Squid4life said:
Really hard to answer the question bro. All I can tell is you (I assume) own a GN. But I have no idea what you have into it? Is it a hot air, Ic'ed, Stage car, etc?

Go to "USER CP"
Click "EDIT SIGNATURE"
Add all the goods about your car and save it. Then we can tell you how much money to bet and win on this race! ;)

I own an 1987 GN and it is completely stock except for full exhaust, and a K&N.

Iam actually new to the whole GN thing, I just purchased my GN in December.

What are some decently priced mods I can do that will give me good performance.
 
Cold air kit, delete the cat/less restrictive exhaust, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, downpipe. There's a lot of fairly inexpensive mods that you can do to a stock car to get a nice gain in performance. Exhaust is obviously important on a turbo car, so anything you can do to improve that will help. And they say the OEM fuel system on a GN isn't all that great, so hotwiring the pump, getting an adjustable regulator, and upgrading your injectors are more $100-$300 mods to do.
 
Matt37 said:
I own an 1987 GN and it is completely stock except for full exhaust, and a K&N.

Iam actually new to the whole GN thing, I just purchased my GN in December.

What are some decently priced mods I can do that will give me good performance.

Get a boost gauge and a Air Fuel Ratio gauge. At least now you could see if it will run lean after you: Get a chip. Gut the cat. Get an open air type K&N (get rid of the stock air cleaner box). Get an adjustable waste gate. That should get you a few Pony's. (pun intended) :D
 
Get the adjustable regulator, upgrade and hotwire the fuel pump first. Then(of course) the fuel pressure gauge, and(at least) a scanmaster. Do a complete "spring tune-up". I used to smoke virgin Mudstains of all descriptions with my '85(justa chip, the above, and 93 octane). ;)
 
I'd hold off on the smack talking just a while longer. Read, read, read, then read some more, then go buy some good parts. Then let the GN do the talking. :D
 
With your mods, the new GT will smoke you.
As said - read up, get the best bang for the buck mods done, and go waste him.
 
What year mustang does he have? What mods does he have?automatic or 5 speed? If the mustang is stock I don't think he will beat you.
 
growler said:
What year mustang does he have? What mods does he have?automatic or 5 speed? If the mustang is stock I don't think he will beat you.
He said 2006.
I've read claims of low 13's on those.
 
growler said:
What year mustang does he have? What mods does he have?automatic or 5 speed? If the mustang is stock I don't think he will beat you.


at the track mustangs in street trim have a starting line disadvantage and still run some good 12 second numbers
he not only would whoop your stock arse , consider this , without knowing your car and what its tune is you may have leanout and knocking occurring at WOT and may have to to ask that rustang guy for a ride home after you blow yours up .

you dont need much changed from stock to be into the 12s to beat or match one of those ovals (if he is stock) , I beat them at the track with just a stock turbo but lots of other mods and without the launch advantage i have it might be different they are quick, do as said above read -read- read , get some monitoring gauges for boost and knock and at minimum a scanmaster , get a modern chip , 255l fuelpump and hotwire adj regulator , free up the exhaust , get some octane in the tank (i perfer alky injection so im always in kill mode on 93 pump gas) and work the boost up from stock , get some good tires or youll just be smoking em up , you may just beat him . and have a car to drive home with , with a good tune the buick can whoop but over and over again reliably .
if you want to whoop him good consider a step up turbo like a stock appearing ta49 or the te44 and injectors and chip to match , youll soon find yourself in mid 11s whooping more than just the pony guys
 
Depending on the miles, a really good one to do is the valve springs. I gained 2mph just from that and ran 12.9 @17psi with tires and open exhaust.

But definately make sure you are getting fuel to the motor with a hotwire or new pump if its stock.

Lots to do, lots to read.
 
First to last-
Scanmaster scanmaster scanmaster scanmaster.
Replace as many hoses as you can.
Replace/adjust as many sensors as you can.
New PCV valve and check valves.
New plugs and wires (good wires!)
New charcoal canister purge solenoid and o-ring.
Service the tranny
Replace the fuel filter.
Adjustable wastegate.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a gauge. You can get a cheap bosch one.
Walbro 340 pump and hotwire kit. Racetronix probably makes the best.
Nice intake tube and a big K&N.
Sticky tires.
Crank the boost up to 17 or so.

Next step-

Install bigger injectors and a matching chip at the same time. (I like the injectors/LS1 MAF/Extender chip/MAF translator combo..you can tune it, among other advantages).
Some sort of intercooler upgrade. A clean Duttweiler neck install can be worth 2.5-3psi. Now the boost will go up that much, and you'll have to turn the boost back down to 17 again. But now you will be flowing a good amount more air at 17psi and making more power.
A 3" Downpipe of your choice. The boost will probably go up again. You'll have to turn it back down to 17. But with the bigger DP, you'll have a quicker spooling turbo.
Get an alky injection kit. Its good to have the extender chip setup cause you can do all your own tuning with the alky injection. Now you can gradually move the boost up....turn boost up then tune...turn boost up then tune...turn boost up then tune. Now you can run 25psi on pump gas and embarrass most cars on the road.
Now as far as this race goes....if you turn the boost up, throw on some sticky tires...you may beat him cause the manual trannied mustangs tend to have major traction problems unless they do suspension work and throw some drag radials on it, AND learn to launch with a stick, which is NOT easy with alot of power. The GN will probably hook better causes the tires dont get shocked hard like they do on the stangs.
 
Are there any websites that sell alot of GN stuff, aftermarket stuff, etc.

Also this GN is my everyday driver, so I do not want it to be a pure racer... But I would love to get it into the 11's as well!
 
Matt37 said:
Are there any websites that sell alot of GN stuff, aftermarket stuff, etc.

Also this GN is my everyday driver, so I do not want it to be a pure racer... But I would love to get it into the 11's as well!
I have the above combo, and the car is really quick, and is my daily driver. I drive 70+ miles a day and put over 20,000 miles on it in the last year.
 
Matt37 said:
Are there any websites that sell alot of GN stuff, aftermarket stuff, etc.

Also this GN is my everyday driver, so I do not want it to be a pure racer... But I would love to get it into the 11's as well!
Just look at this websites sponsors. All are good to deal with. You probably will not end up buying all of your parts from just 1 vendor, they all have their "Specialties". Read and read here and www.gnttype.org.
For around $1500-$2000 you can make it a low 12 car and be a dependable driver. Get into the 11's with a bigger turbo and then you may start to break a thing or 2 periodically.
The key to not blowing your motor up is to constantly watch for knock with a scan tool or knock gauge...those are a must have item with these cars unless your never going to hit the boost :)
 
VadersV6 said:
New charcoal canister purge solenoid and o-ring.

Is there a personal story behind this entry? I have never heard of this as something to look at or worry about replacing. Mine is OLDOLDOLD, so good to know if it is an issue. :confused:
 
Low Budget said:
Is there a personal story behind this entry? I have never heard of this as something to look at or worry about replacing. Mine is OLDOLDOLD, so good to know if it is an issue. :confused:
I think next to EGR, this is a very neglected item. I pulled my solenoid off to test it just for kicks, and found it wasnt working too well. I hooked it up to a power supply here at work and blew through the barb. I found that the needle was sticking intermittently. I would turn it on, and blow through it. I would cycle it again, and now I couldnt blow through it. I would cycle it again, and I could blow through it. I would turn the power off again, and I could still blow through it. I poured a little air tool oil in both holes, blew it out with a blow gun, and cycled it rapidly. Eventually it was working like new again. Solenoids use an iron needle, which tends to rust a little over time and starts to stick, and it also wont seal properly against the seat. If its not the corrosion, the coil can start to become weak. I dont like the idea of the solenoid failing and dumping boost into the canister and the gas tank, among other little issues that can arise. I noticed that when I removed my gas filler cap, only rarely would it release pressure. Now its nice and consistent. I also replaced that little o-ring with a clover shaped o-ring that seals at 2 points instead of 1. I just happened to have some laying around here. I dont know why, but it improved my idle, and my BLM's changed a bit. If I remember right, they moved up. And the spread between idle BLM's and cruise BLM's reduced by about 3-5 counts. in the process, I noticed my check valves werent in great shape either. So between that and a sticking solenoid, I could have been causing damage to something.
 
VadersV6 said:
I think next to EGR, this is a very neglected item. I pulled my solenoid off to test it just for kicks, and found it wasnt working too well. I hooked it up to a power supply here at work and blew through the barb. I found that the needle was sticking intermittently. I would turn it on, and blow through it. I would cycle it again, and now I couldnt blow through it. I would cycle it again, and I could blow through it. I would turn the power off again, and I could still blow through it. I poured a little air tool oil in both holes, blew it out with a blow gun, and cycled it rapidly. Eventually it was working like new again. Solenoids use an iron needle, which tends to rust a little over time and starts to stick, and it also wont seal properly against the seat. If its not the corrosion, the coil can start to become weak. I dont like the idea of the solenoid failing and dumping boost into the canister and the gas tank, among other little issues that can arise. I noticed that when I removed my gas filler cap, only rarely would it release pressure. Now its nice and consistent. I also replaced that little o-ring with a clover shaped o-ring that seals at 2 points instead of 1. I just happened to have some laying around here. I dont know why, but it improved my idle, and my BLM's changed a bit. If I remember right, they moved up. And the spread between idle BLM's and cruise BLM's reduced by about 3-5 counts. in the process, I noticed my check valves werent in great shape either. So between that and a sticking solenoid, I could have been causing damage to something.

Huh...I guess I'll add that to my to-do list. Thanks for the reply.
 
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