Spark plug questions

["Turbo-T"]

1. Why would someone gap spark plugs in a Buick 3.8 turbo to .034??? I ask because that's what someone (before me) gapped the plugs to. All of them, except #6 (well get to that one in a minute). And my Chiltons manual says the factory gapped the plugs at .045. BTW I changed the gap to .045 hope that's ok.

2. I am having a hell of a time trying to get to the #6 plug. Someone torque the living dog **** out of these plugs in which I am forced to use a big ass 14 inch breaker bar to get them broke loose. There's little space between the plug and the darn a/c blower box. How can I get this last plug out?

3. Of the 5 plugs I pulled I found out they are NGK UR4's. Are these a good plug for the engine? They say "V-power" under the "UR4". Should I replace them with AC Delto RT44's? Or keep what I have? The left bank looked really good, almost like they're new.

Thanks.

 

[gossamer]

The factory gap for the turbo engine is .035.

The NGK UR4 plugs work great. I switched from the AC R44TS after I noticed the car seemed to run a little smoother with the NGK's. I'm sure you'll get a lot of opinions on plugs, but they both will work fine.

The #6 plug is a P.I.T.A. You just have to get the right combination of socket, extension and ratchet to get it. Keep trying and never give up!

 

[dentmasters01]

actually gapping them at .30 is not uncommon. The tighter the gap, the less likely "blowout" will occur under high boost.
as far as the #6 plug....get two long extentions, a swivel, and go between the a/c pipe and the cannister. its a long reach but gives a good straigt line to the plug. hope this helps. good luck !

oh and r43ts is all I use:wink:

 

[bmackinnon]

oh and r43ts is all I use:wink:

+1 .... gapped at .032.... :wink:

 

[turbojd]

I just switched from Autolite24's which ran great in the car, to NGK UR 5's, car runs great with them also, gap mine at .032. AC R43TS also,your choice!

 

["Turbo-T"]

So is .032 the magic number?

Also what is this "blow out" you speak of?

 

[CTX-SLPR]

With boost pressure the mixture in the cylinder becomes denser and it takes more breakdown voltage to jump the gap. If you leave the gap and the coil voltage the same then increase the boost you will reach a point where the coil can't fire the plug. That is blow out.

 

[KWIK SIX]

#6 plug - Remove using a Spark Plug socket with a hex on the end. Then use a box end wrench on the hex. Works great,with very little effort.

Mike

 

[Evans Ward]

#6 plug - Remove using a Spark Plug socket with a hex on the end. Then use a box end wrench on the hex. Works great,with very little effort.

Mike

+1 That's how I do it too. Easy cheesey! :wink:

 

["Turbo-T"]

With boost pressure the mixture in the cylinder becomes denser and it takes more breakdown voltage to jump the gap. If you leave the gap and the coil voltage the same then increase the boost you will reach a point where the coil can't fire the plug. That is blow out.

Thanks. I don't suppose some sort of volt booster (while under boost) on the coil pack would aid in the prevention of blow out?

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Coil output is roughly a property of the coil turn ration, if its getting good power it shouldn't make a significant difference. I'd run 0.032in

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks. You have inspired me. I went out and regapped all 5 of my plugs to .032 and then anti seized the threads before reinstall.

I also snugged them down (NOT cranked on them) by hand with the ratchet.

But as for the #6 plug....I tried putting just the socket and using a boxed end wrench like some of you said....well it's not working for me. I can't even get the wrench on. And I even had angled ended box wrenches too.

Is it possible that some spark plug sockets are longer than others?

 

[CTX-SLPR]

They make special shorty style spark plug sockets that have a lot of the insulator tower sticking through the top of the socket and you use a racheting wrench on them. No idea where you get one.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I have a 5/8 deep socket with the rubber coating inside for spark plugs. Mine is only 2 5/16 inches long. When fully seated on the spark plug if trying to use an open end wrench on it, the wrench contacts the valve covers, the a/c blower box, I think even the flanges on the stock headers.

I could try and take it off using a ratchet and an extension with swivel but then i really chance breaking off the plug insulators. Don't want to do that either.

I just wished I knew who torqued the plugs on with an impact wrench.

 

[WHEEZER]

Get a cheap boxed-in with a good offset to use on the plug socket. That will give you better reaching depth.

 

["Turbo-T"]

The boxed end wrench I tried using was an offset. It still didn't work. Perhaps someone makes a plug socket that's longer than the one I have...? That would surely work.

 

[ChavoLC2]

Pita #6

Used a swivel socket similar to these and a craftsman ratchet with a swivel angled handle to just to loosen it up. Then take ratchet off and back it out by hand. Don't back it up all the way with this socket wrench combo as you will be up against the ac/heater box unable to get socket and ratchet off plug. They do sell swivel spark plug sockets but they are more expensive you pay a premium for the rubber inside the socket..

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks I'll try this.