Spinning motor to 6k rpm

[Wahoo]

I'm saving up for my engine build.

Just curious what needs to be done to spin the engine to 6 or even 6.5k rpm.

In that rpm range would it require a forged rotating assembly? Would the stock coilpack/ignition system be able to handle it?

Would a larger cam be beneficial in that rpm range along with a .85 ar housing for the turbo, maybe 4 bolt turbo. I'll be intercooled on e85

Just trying to get some ideas, thx

 

[forcefed3.8's]

How fast do you want to go? I have a 9 sec car that shifts at 5100.

 

[Wahoo]

How fast do you want to go? I have a 9 sec car that shifts at 5100.

Probably not 9 second fast. My car is no where near ready for that type of speed. I didn't realize it could be done spinning @5,100rpm.

But basically I want to build the bottom end of my engine very strong so I can keep improving things slowly so the strength will be there as the car becomes faster.

Also plan to go roller cam while I'm at it.

The car already has a th400 and 3k stall, it is more drag oriented but I'll drive it on the street as well. The car definitely won't be a daily driver.

 

[Boost231]

Question you should be asking yourself is, what is your end goal and how large or small is your budget, and can your reach that goal with your budget.

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[Wahoo]

This winter I plan to build the engine with a stock displacement forged rotating assembly, and roller cam. If I don't have further money to go with a larger turbo and or ported heads, then I'll being using stock heads, 86/76 intake, some type of intercooler probably front mount and my TA33 turbo. But most likely I can sell my ta33 and get something else maybe slightly bigger.

 

[cruzn57]

1st....... it ain't a chevy, so no reason to spin it up to make power,
2nd . you need to work with a well known/ knowledgeable engine builder.
3rd.. look at some of combos in peoples signatures, see what they have already figured out for you. no need to reinvent the wheel!
now........ with all the money you just saved, join us at Bates Buick event in June!

 

[Wahoo]

This winter I plan to build the engine with a stock displacement forged rotating assembly, and roller cam. If I don't have further money to go with a larger turbo and or ported heads, then I'll being using stock heads, 86/76 intake, some type of intercooler probably front mount and my TA33 turbo. But most likely I can sell my ta33 and get something else maybe slightly bigger.

I do plan to use a builder from on this very forum.

I'm usually on this forum with my cell phone though, so no signatures for me to see unfortunately.

 

[Reggie West]

A forged rotating assembly is needed if you make more than 500 hp.

If you plan to go above that it will be needed. It is pretty cheap to go to a forged set up.

You can make power with iron heads but aluminum heads flow better and are a little more tolerant to knock.

You can run a stock block with stock stroke (3.4 inches) or stroker (3.625) crank.

A forged rotating assembly, ported iron heads, hydraulic roller cam, turbo, injectors are all parts needed to do it right.

Cost? Figure 8 or 9 K for sure having a shop doing it.

And don't forget a trans that will hold up to the abuse you are going to bolt up to it.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Just curious what needs to be done to spin the engine to 6

I've spun a stock bottom end with a stock cam to 6000rpm back in the day.with converter tech where it is today no need.you will need a good tune that's what really keeps things together.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

The cost adder to go to a larger displacement, given you are buying a forged rotating assy, is nil.
Make it a "torque pump". Max cubes, lower rpm, good intake system, all make for a more reliable power plant.
A major stress adder is high rpm.....Inertial loads go up w/ the square of the rpm increase. IE: at 7200 vs 6000, the increase is 144%...{Corky Bell, 1950!}
My friend, Jim Ruggles once told me that my stock block would/could be "happy" for a period of a couple yrs at 600FW..He was right.
The newer parts designs is obviously extending that time frame. {Kinda}.

Just sayin

 

[Pronto]

On E85, I would look at bigger injectors and pump too. Then of course a bigger turbo. With all the little extras that pop up count on 10k or so.

 

[Wahoo]

A forged rotating assembly is needed if you make more than 500 hp.

If you plan to go above that it will be needed. It is pretty cheap to go to a forged set up.

You can make power with iron heads but aluminum heads flow better and are a little more tolerant to knock.

You can run a stock block with stock stroke (3.4 inches) or stroker (3.625) crank.

A forged rotating assembly, ported iron heads, hydraulic roller cam, turbo, injectors are all parts needed to do it right.

Cost? Figure 8 or 9 K for sure having a shop doing it.

And don't forget a trans that will hold up to the abuse you are going to bolt up to it.

Definitely plan to make 500 or more hp. I was actually looking up my current turbo, I believe its good for 500hp TA33(hot air).

But like I said, we will see were the funds take me. But I'd like to go forged rotating assembly to do it once and do it right.

 

[Wahoo]

On E85, I would look at bigger injectors and pump too. Then of course a bigger turbo. With all the little extras that pop up count on 10k or so.

Yeah we will see how far my funds take me, I'd like to reuse what I can for my setup. If my current fuel pump and injectors can take me a little further I'm ok but I'm guessing I'll need to run new fuel line around the same time I need bigger pump and injectors.

So like I said I'd like to get the lower end forged and ready to go so I can keep turning it up as the funds allow.

 

[Wahoo]

The cost adder to go to a larger displacement, given you are buying a forged rotating assy, is nil.
Make it a "torque pump". Max cubes, lower rpm, good intake system, all make for a more reliable power plant.
A major stress adder is high rpm.....Inertial loads go up w/ the square of the rpm increase. IE: at 7200 vs 6000, the increase is 144%...{Corky Bell, 1950!}
My friend, Jim Ruggles once told me that my stock block would/could be "happy" for a period of a couple yrs at 600FW..He was right.
The newer parts designs is obviously extending that time frame. {Kinda}.

Just sayin

The machining to go stroker is a lot I have heard. I figure the block would be happier with the stock stroke, less horizontal load on the piston skirts?

 

[Boost231]

You're going to need more funds. That TA33 isn't going to get you 500rwhp..

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[Reggie West]

The machining to go stroker is a lot I have heard. I figure the block would be happier with the stock stroke, less horizontal load on the piston skirts?

The difference will be going from a hot air set up to an intercooled one. You might as well switch it all over now and be done with it considering the power levels you are shooting for. If you are in it 8K, what is another thousand to get all of the intercooled parts in it?

A knowledgeable builder can do all of that. It will take some time so be patient with whomever does it.

 

[Wahoo]

I have a welder, I might just modify my own exhaust rather than doing a full conversion. I don't need AC but heat is like to keep. I'll make my own downpipe and everything.

 

[85tr]

I would think a ta33 would get you to 350rwhp or so.

 

[Wahoo]

I would think a ta33 would get you to 350rwhp or so.

I tried to look it up and i thought it said good for 500hp 780cfm? But if I have to use it for a little while til I have money for a bigger turbo, that's fine. I have a welder, would be cool to do a twin scroll setup. I'm not gonna buy 86/7 stuff when I can pipe it how I want. Just wasn't sure if I should consider a .85 AR housing

 

[85tr]

It might on a more efficient 4 cylinder but not a stock headed Buick. I had a blast with it on my car. Still haven't gone faster than I did with it and a stock stall.