Stage 2 block strength

Got a pretty sweet stage 2 book too. Has all the engine tolerances, part numbers, casting numbers, break in procedure, etc etc. Would be cool to scan all of it for people to see.
 
Got a pretty sweet stage 2 book too. Has all the engine tolerances, part numbers, casting numbers, break in procedure, etc etc. Would be cool to scan all of it for people to see.
That book is probably "The Buick Power Source". Many forum members have it. It has been posted in photographic form on the the board many times. And yes, it is a good book to have.

Well congratulations! You have now entered a new realm very, very different from the stock-block zone. The learning curve is steep and expensive. Of course, there are a few who choose to keep stage builds 'mild'. Mostly when using off-center blocks though.

I guess 20,000+ dollars and 2-3 years of down time doesn't seem like a lot of money or time to most people anymore anyhow. It didn't to me either when I was single and didn't have a family. I'm glad I finished mine up years ago before this. But I'm jealous I currently can't allocate the funds to build my current spare block.

Good luck. :)
 
Looks like the truck load of stuff I sold to the guy who bought my race car. Congrats on the score! :cool:

Neal
 
Looks like the truck load of stuff I sold to the guy who bought my race car. Congrats on the score! :cool:

Neal
I actually have been speaking with the guy you sold all your stuff to Neal . He seems to be a pretty cool guy . I’m getting some parts off him .
 
It's an On Center motor. The block casting should be 2550153. These are later blocks from the Buick Motorsports program. Since it appears to be an ex Busch GN engine the bore size should be between 4.00 and 4.020" which will give you a good cylinder wall thickness and the option for rebuilds in the future. Once you get it apart be sure to sonic check the block for core shift. The On Center blocks are much better than the earlier castings from that standpoint.

Neal

You definitely know your stuff. And you're right they are all 2550153. What's weird is 2 of the blocks are clearly different. They have different castings and are lacking the 2 side bolts going into the main caps. Yet they are all the same number on the block.
 
You definitely know your stuff. And you're right they are all 2550153. What's weird is 2 of the blocks are clearly different. They have different castings and are lacking the 2 side bolts going into the main caps. Yet they are all the same number on the block.
Yea the ones with the cross bolts are the later ones . So if you wanted to go with a oncenter block those ones are the ones to build . I’m not sure why a majority of ppl are scared of building a on center motor. I think is because everything can’t just transfer over from a 109 block like the stage off center blocks . Imo the on center is the way to go and you basically just by acouple spacers and everything lines up and you are good to go.
 
Yea the ones with the cross bolts are the later ones . So if you wanted to go with a oncenter block those ones are the ones to build . I’m not sure why a majority of ppl are scared of building a on center motor. I think is because everything can’t just transfer over from a 109 block like the stage off center blocks . Imo the on center is the way to go and you basically just by acouple spacers and everything lines up and you are good to go.
I wasn't much intimidated to build an on-center. But for me the reasons for going off-center made a little more sense to me at the time (2003ish). And it makes just as much sense today to stick with the off-center in the future.

- Back then, I got a good price on a completely virgin, 4 bolt main, 14 bolt head 016 from a friend I trust.

-I knew it would take a year or longer to have it built. It ended up taking about 2 years. I needed a block to begin my fabricartion to use as a template for my fabrication while this was being done. If I built an on-center, then I would have wanted another on-center for my mock-up. But using an off-center made it easy to use a stock block for the mock-up. Every single component from the intake to the oil pan was bought and fabbed-up to fit perfectly and aligned as I imagined it would without needing spacers afterward. I'm oviously a complete maniac when it comes to having things just so.

Which is exactly the reason why when I was looking for a spare block..........I bought your 016, 4 bolt main, 14 bolt head virgin. :)

-I knew I could easily make 1000+ HP with it, and it was going to be used primarily as a true street/show car.
 
From what I have found people don’t really know how easy it is to go with a on center build . The only tricky part is the intake which isn’t that bad as you can by a on center champion race now a days .
 
You definitely know your stuff. And you're right they are all 2550153. What's weird is 2 of the blocks are clearly different. They have different castings and are lacking the 2 side bolts going into the main caps. Yet they are all the same number on the block.

The Buick Motorsports program was an evolution from start to finish. There are a lot of different blocks even with the same casting #. I've had quite a few, if you need help sorting out what you've got drop me a line.

Neal
 
From what I have found people don’t really know how easy it is to go with a on center build . The only tricky part is the intake which isn’t that bad as you can by a on center champion race now a days .

Not that hard to convert the carbed intake to EFI.
 
Not that hard to convert the carbed intake to EFI.
It’s not the conversion to efi I was talking about it’s the whole shifting the intake runners over to fit to a on center block . But like I said champions race intake is a great choice for anyone running production style heads .
 
It’s not the conversion to efi I was talking about it’s the whole shifting the intake runners over to fit to a on center block . But like I said champions race intake is a great choice for anyone running production style heads .
Not that hard to convert the carbed intake to EFI.

If planning to use alcohol injection, the carbed intake may be a slightly better option than most other intakes. If the nozzle is placed within the plenum and faced downward towards the bottom of the intake, you may be more likely to get a more even distribution of alky to all 6 runners. As this is what it was designed to do with fuel distribution.
 
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