Stage 2 GN build
- Thread starter Mike E
- Start date
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We all end up there. Thanks for being up front. Spending too much on things with wheels is not limited to Buicks forever. I think your's is worth whatever it would cost even if you didn't do anything yourself.
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I think your's is worth whatever it would cost even if you didn't do anything yourself.
If I told you that number was $65k+ would you still say its worth that much?
I didn't spend that much, but could have. If I had payed full price for all parts, labor for custom stuff it could have easily cost that. But custom is expensive. If you count all the parts I bought, changed my mind and sold, it could have been way over that. I think thats about 2.5 times what I thought it would cost when I started. I saved a lot of money building my own trans, headers, valve covers, oil pan, rearend, accessory drive, etc. I also got a great deal on the chassis from Tom Robison, an awesome deal from Chris Hogeland (Twisted 6 Racing) on my motor and converter, I got great deals on my precision turbo stuff and FAST electronics from Travis Quillen (Quillen Motorsports Engineering), I got lots of good advice from people here that saved me money. I had lots of help all around to get it done. Now I've got to get it to run the numbers.
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
- Messages
- 2,465
Well said. I think a lot of us in the same boat. Trying to do this hobby with little kids at home don't make it easy.
AG
AG
If I told you that number was $65k+ would you still say its worth that much?
Yes. I've seen $80k plus put into these things even by people doing most work themselves. And they aren't much faster than you. Nice work.
Reginald D. Harrid
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2014
- Messages
- 3
that is beautifully work put in there who did motor work can you send me address or a phone number
Reginald D. Harrid
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2014
- Messages
- 3
thank you
I have done a few small things. I've been working on getting more weight out of the car. Most of the weight removal can't be seen and I've been trying to keep all the creature comforts in the car. I have gotten rid of a few things under the hood. I ditched the stock radiator overflow for a smaller aluminum one. I got rid of the fan shroud to give room for a cold air intake. That also allowed me to redo the charge tube to the throttlebody. I swapped to a new throttlebody so I can run and IAC motor now. I'm thinking I've cut 75-100lbs. from the car and it still looks the same.
I haven't decided if I'll cut the air dam for the cold air inlet yet or not. I think there is enough air coming down from the front of the intercooler that the turbo won't starve, but I might pull the air dam off to see. I could put a set of stock air dams on the car and the air inlet should line up perfectly.
I haven't decided if I'll cut the air dam for the cold air inlet yet or not. I think there is enough air coming down from the front of the intercooler that the turbo won't starve, but I might pull the air dam off to see. I could put a set of stock air dams on the car and the air inlet should line up perfectly.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
Man, you have to let me in on some weight saving secrets. I am at 3470, and have done everything I can think of. Wait, 3470 was with the 8.5 10 bolt. I switched to a 12 bolt, I am probably at 3500+ now.
Mine is probably 3100-3150 without driver now. It already has a glass hood and bumpers. I only run a 5 gallon fuel cell. It has a mild steel 10 pt. cage with a few extra bars. I've got all the TRZ lightweight front suspension parts. I still have stock seats and full interior and the door bars are still in it.
Basically the last 100 lbs have been 5 lbs here or there, 20 times. Things like the overflow tank. I removed it and the two -10 lines going to it. Instead, I put baffles in the valve covers and put the breathers directly on them. I replaced the cast aluminum trans pan for a gm deep stamped pan, that was a few lbs. I cut a few extra bars from under the back of the car that I don't think were doing anything.
Next, I'm going to pull the steel frame and springs out of the back seats. Nobody can sit there, so as long as it looks good, I'm cool with it. I've also got the parts to build an aluminum downpipe when I'm racing local stuff. Pulling my stainless downpipe and 3.5" exhaust should be another 50 lbs. I'm going to cut out the spare tire well and make a .049 aluminum filler panel to cover it. I could put kirkeys in it and cut more, but I like the look of stock seats. I could put lightweight front runners on it, but I like to put a few street miles on it and they wouldnt last.
Wiring is a big one. A battery relocation adds a lot of weight in the battery cables. AN lines and the fluid in them are heavy. The closer you can mount stuff, like the filter relocator, the more weight you save. Any bolt that hangs out past the nut is dead weight, including wheel studs. You have to look at every part and either figure out how to get rid of it or make it lighter.
Basically the last 100 lbs have been 5 lbs here or there, 20 times. Things like the overflow tank. I removed it and the two -10 lines going to it. Instead, I put baffles in the valve covers and put the breathers directly on them. I replaced the cast aluminum trans pan for a gm deep stamped pan, that was a few lbs. I cut a few extra bars from under the back of the car that I don't think were doing anything.
Next, I'm going to pull the steel frame and springs out of the back seats. Nobody can sit there, so as long as it looks good, I'm cool with it. I've also got the parts to build an aluminum downpipe when I'm racing local stuff. Pulling my stainless downpipe and 3.5" exhaust should be another 50 lbs. I'm going to cut out the spare tire well and make a .049 aluminum filler panel to cover it. I could put kirkeys in it and cut more, but I like the look of stock seats. I could put lightweight front runners on it, but I like to put a few street miles on it and they wouldnt last.
Wiring is a big one. A battery relocation adds a lot of weight in the battery cables. AN lines and the fluid in them are heavy. The closer you can mount stuff, like the filter relocator, the more weight you save. Any bolt that hangs out past the nut is dead weight, including wheel studs. You have to look at every part and either figure out how to get rid of it or make it lighter.
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
I have glass hood, bumpers, no bars in the doors Kirkey's, manual brakes and steering, tubular front control arms, Wilwood brakes (12" street brakes). My 4" down pipe and exhaust is heavy, I bet 75lbs. I would like to do aluminum. I am running 205/75 front tires on 15x4 wheels, they are 35lbs a side. I want to run ET fronts, but think they will wear quickly on the street. I am running heavy 1g wire to the trunk. My cage is 14 point CM.
Getting rid of power steering, factory seats, hydroboost brakes, door bars, rubber backed carpet,16g steel rear firewall, and adding a glass hood washed out adding the cage. The 4 bolt turbo is 2x as heavy as the 3 bolt.
Getting rid of power steering, factory seats, hydroboost brakes, door bars, rubber backed carpet,16g steel rear firewall, and adding a glass hood washed out adding the cage. The 4 bolt turbo is 2x as heavy as the 3 bolt.
I went to BG today and got two passes. The first pass, I made a new best (for me) 1/8th mile pass with a 5.90@117.9. I made a lot of changes over the winter, including changing up the breather system, It puked oil on the dowpipe at the 1/8th, so I shut it down. The next pass it spun, the track was going away with no prep and a lot of street tire cars. The biggest change I made over the winter was getting rid of the boost controller. The OSCA class I want to run requires it. It's going to take some tuning to get the 60' back down, but I've got a real good starting point. I also switched to the non Pro 275 tire (3754R)
I should have a video soon from a friend. You'll see a lot of smoke when it leaves, that was the 9.2:1 A/F ratio that I had to fix and then white smoke, oil from the breathers hitting the headers.
The next pass it spun, but I got the a/f much closer at 10.8 (shooting for an 11.2 target). Then my fuel pump shut off at the 1/8th. I don't know if it was the pump or the relay board, but I messed with the fuse and it fired right back up. Another project before I got to the track again.
I should have a video soon from a friend. You'll see a lot of smoke when it leaves, that was the 9.2:1 A/F ratio that I had to fix and then white smoke, oil from the breathers hitting the headers.
The next pass it spun, but I got the a/f much closer at 10.8 (shooting for an 11.2 target). Then my fuel pump shut off at the 1/8th. I don't know if it was the pump or the relay board, but I messed with the fuse and it fired right back up. Another project before I got to the track again.
