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Still Making Odd Noise When Foot Into It

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I wouldn't replace the connector unless you're planning to solder and heatshrink the new one in place.
 
Replaced the knock sensor today. But I havent drove it because I ended up taking out the intercooler for cleaning and throttle body off the car. The plenum is nasty inside. This might explain the rough idle. There was a little bit of oil up in the vacuum block as well. Probably a bad PCV. When I drove the car earlier, before taking it apart, I was getting around 12 lbs of boost according to my new guage. I still heard what sounded like a subtle knocking or pinging. I don't know. Might be bad gas. I replaced the O2 sensor and fixed any vacuum issues. Who knows. Maybe cleaning out the gunk and new gas will get me back in shape.
 
Might want to replace every vac line under the hood too... ESP the three that run from the turbo to the wastegate.

If you touch a hose and your finger turns black, it should have been replaced 10 years ago.

Give the check valves a blow test too.
 
Might want to replace every vac line under the hood too... ESP the three that run from the turbo to the wastegate.

If you touch a hose and your finger turns black, it should have been replaced 10 years ago.

Give the check valves a blow test too.


I have almost replaced every vac line. Some almost fell apart in my hands. I havn't replaced the check valves yet. I seen some at Kragen that look the same. They were way cheeper than the GN vendors. I might try them out. I was surprised how much gunk was in the plenum and in the EGR port in the intake. I am determined to get to the bottom of this! If my wallet could only keep up!
 
the intake can get gunked up 4 different ways. Leaky turbo, lack of a valley pan gasket, factory PS valve cover breather tube, and EGR tower.


Get it good and clean, then drive it a while. A second look might give a clue.
 
Blm on scan master will tell you if there is a vacuum leak. S/b 128 +/- 10 at idle.
 
Blm on scan master will tell you if there is a vacuum leak. S/b 128 +/- 10 at idle.

Last time I checked it at idle it was at 142. Is that an indication of a leak or would the number be lower to indicate a leak?
 
Taking bets on egr valve.
 
Ok, replaced the EGR valve and that wasn't it. I used a new gasket and high temp adhesive. I made sure it was sealed and aligned properly. I tried another Denso O2 sensor. I tried replacing the IAC motor. I traced every vacuum line once again. I added a new coil pack, wires, and plugs not too long ago. Yesterday, I made a pressurized vacuum tester from Home Depot plumbing parts. I hooked it to the turbo inlet and turned it gradually up to 10 psi. I noticed a small leak around the vacuum block under pressure; a very small leak. I fixed it. The idle is still rough with no vacuum leaks. It's running rich. I need to pull the plugs to see how they look. The BLMs keep going to 142 at idle as if it was some preset number, even after I make adjustments and drive it around. The ECU keeps trying to compensate for whatever the problem is by adding more fuel at idle. I don't know. The oil is starting to smell like gas from running so rich and I've barely driven the car. The voltage is good (13.7). Fuel pressure is normal for stock (31-32 psi vac line on, 39-40 off). One thing I noticed when I had the plenum off was it was filthy with carbon and greasy gunk. The intake runners were also pretty nasty. I hope it's not a head gasket leaking on the intake side. Possibly it's a computer/chip issue? This car has seen very little miles or abuse. I don't know whats up with it. I'm having recurring dreams about pulling the motor and opening my wallet.
 
Exh header cracked at the 3-5 area? Also, look at the accordion on the pass side header. They crack in the root.
A bad PCV valve will put blowby back into the intake, under boost.
Does the intake gasket have the valley cover built into it?
IC clean?

Smoke test the exh. I use a wet rag wad wired over the tail pipe and give her a shot of Seafoam. Watch and see where the leaks form.
Mismatch between the injs and the chip? Inj leaks?
Leak down and compression test?
 
A bad PCV valve will put blowby back into the intake, under boost.
Does the intake gasket have the valley cover built into it?
IC clean?

Smoke test the exh. I use a wet rag wad wired over the tail pipe and give her a shot of Seafoam. Watch and see where the leaks form.
Mismatch between the injs and the chip? Inj leaks?
Leak down and compression test?
[/QUOTE]

I cleaned out the intercooler, throttle body, and doghouse. I replaced PCV valve, hose, and grommet when I went through the vacuum lines (although I don't trust the stock replacement PCV). I'm not sure if theres a valley pan (I assume so now that I think about it). I will try to do a compression test when I check the plugs. Can you explain the wet rag exhaust leak test? How does it work exactly?
 
The rag
A bad PCV valve will put blowby back into the intake, under boost.
Does the intake gasket have the valley cover built into it?
IC clean?

Smoke test the exh. I use a wet rag wad wired over the tail pipe and give her a shot of Seafoam. Watch and see where the leaks form.
Mismatch between the injs and the chip? Inj leaks?
Leak down and compression test?

I cleaned out the intercooler, throttle body, and doghouse. I replaced PCV valve, hose, and grommet when I went through the vacuum lines (although I don't trust the stock replacement PCV). I'm not sure if theres a valley pan (I assume so now that I think about it). I will try to do a compression test when I check the plugs. Can you explain the wet rag exhaust leak test? How does it work exactly?[/QUOTE]
blocks exh flow, causing back psi in the system. When smoke is made w/ the Seafoam, it leaks out of the leaky joints.
U can look in the pcv hole and see if there's a valley pan.
 
I bought a can of Seafoam but I ended up going a different route. I used the shop vac on blower mode taped to one tail pipe and a rag over the other. I listened around under the hood and sprayed water/dish soap. I got bubbles where the turbo is bolted to the passenger side manifold. This makes sense because it is 2 inches from the o2 sensor. This is gotta be why the car has been running bad. I plan to replace the gasket ASAP. Hopefully this will fix it!
 
I found more leaks in the usual places. Driver's side exhaust manifold is cracked at the flange. The passenger side flange is leaking as well. Anyone recommend a specific replacement set of headers?
 
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