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Stock MAF?

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yes but why would you want to do that? Just take one out..
 
Since when does a stock MAF have two screens?

The one in front (the one it needs and is supposed to have) is there to straighten out the air flow so the sensor will sample accurately.
 
Since when does a stock MAF have two screens?

The one in front (the one it needs and is supposed to have) is there to straighten out the air flow so the sensor will sample accurately.

There are two screens on the front, they're stacked and look like one (unless someone has already removed one).
 
In that case don't remove either. If you do the sensor won't sample as accurately.
 
Wait a minute, so now you're telling me there ARE supposed to be TWO screens, BOTH in front?!? I've seen people mention two screens, but I always dismissed it as some kind of weird urban legend about needing one in the back.

The GM unit I have has one screen, and that looks like all it should have EXCEPT that now I look more closely there are some faint scratches that MIGHT be from somebody taking a second screen out.... :confused:
 
Stock maf has 2 screens on the inlet. Removing both will increase flow potential but will cause inaccurate sampling at low flow
 
I went 130+ mph in the 1/4 on the stock maf, screens in. I don't think its a restriction. For example I can see through the maf screen, but if I hold up my air filter I can't see through it..
 
Yes you can take both screens out. Some cars will idle rough with both out and some aren't that bad. Havn't had a screen in mine for years.
 
Supposedly one of those screens is worth 100cfm. Check out Mr. Clarks post.

Turbo Tweek recomends that you have at least one screen or the chip may run lean.

These screens are supposed to create a more even air flow through the tube for the measuring purposes.

I removed one of the 2 screens that my OEM MAF had in it & it runs just fine. They are difficult to remove without destroying it in the process, so be commited. My MAF had 3 plastic spacers that fit on each side of the screens. Pry the one off closest to the end & then try to get a hold of that screen & gently pull it out. Be careful when you pry it out that you don't hit the screen behind it or ding it up.

~JM~
 
The GM unit I have has one screen, and that looks like all it should have EXCEPT that now I look more closely there are some faint scratches that MIGHT be from somebody taking a second screen out.... :confused:

I should clarify .... I'm looking at a factory Hot Air MAF ('84 model). The screen is in a thick plastic frame, so if you tried to stack-in a second one, the frames would stack but the screens wouldn't, and there's no way you'd mistake two screens for one. So apparently the '86-'87 have a different deal with the screens?
 
I can't help you with anything Hot Air related. What little I know is '87 related.

~JM~
 
Well that's what I'm saying, Hot Air is all I know, I can't speak to MAFs for IC cars.

What confusion I've had on this issue seems to boil down to this difference in the design. The Hot Air MAF has its screen embedded in a thick plastic frame. I mean molded in solid, no way to separate it.

(I can't distinguish layering in the wires, so I call it one screen.)
 
With the '87 type, how do you keep the wires aligned so they look like one screen? :p
 
TurboTnZ06 said:
I went 130+ mph in the 1/4 on the stock maf, screens in. I don't think its a restriction. For example I can see through the maf screen, but if I hold up my air filter I can't see through it..
It's definitely a restriction. It was enough of a restriction to limit one application to about 470whp/24psi on a 60-1. With the wastegate wired closed. I converted the car to xfi and just left heavy tension in it and it wrapped the needle round the gauge rhe first time i hit it. It takes a lot of compressor and ex energy to overcome the stock maf with screen(s) over 600hp. Spoolup was greatly improved removing the mafs also. Richard Clark has probably posted the flow somewhere but it appears that it can't flow much more than about 500cfm before it creates a huge pressure drop at the inlet. I once dynoed my car with a t72 and made 559whp through the maf with a screen. The inlet hose compressed like an accordian under power. Not good for efficiency
 
jiho2 said:
With the '87 type, how do you keep the wires aligned so they look like one screen? :p

They aren't wire screens. They are some kind of polymer. I never thought much about what it would take to manufacture them.
 
I've also run the cheap $30 stockish rubber maf hose replacement from a vendor and a stock maf and a 9 inch cone K&N. I wondered why it crumbled itself into a ball and got jammed behind and in the alternator on a 128mph run, thus chomping the maf hose up badly when I let off the throttle and it shot back out towards the alt... Guess the stroker wanted lots of air and the maf was my restriction. I went 4 inch LS7 and translator, so I'm good now :)
 
Well that's what I'm saying, Hot Air is all I know, I can't speak to MAFs for IC cars.

What confusion I've had on this issue seems to boil down to this difference in the design. The Hot Air MAF has its screen embedded in a thick plastic frame. I mean molded in solid, no way to separate it.

(I can't distinguish layering in the wires, so I call it one screen.)

Negative, the HOTAIR MAF is the same in construction as the intercooled cars. They both have 2 screens. pop out the plastic ring and you will havve 2 screens under it. The ring will come out. It might be hard as hell to get out but its the same as the intercooled cars
 
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