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Storage tips

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1quick6

Shadetree Mechanic
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
1,522
It's that time of year again for those of us in the north. Sadly, my TR was placed in storage over the weekend and I'm left driving my Toyota truck for the next several months. Why is it that the older you get, the shorter the summers seem to be? I swear that after 30, the years roll by like months. But, I digress.

I am posting some of the things I do in prep for storage to help others and see what others might do:

Preparing a car for winter storage can be quite a chore, but the steps you take now will ensure an easy process taking it out of storage in the spring. I have listed my recipe below. It might not cover everything you need to do and some guys certainly do more than this, but this recipe has served me well and my cars have thanked me by being ready to go when spring fever hits.

1. Wash and detail the car making sure to get every bit of dirt off of the paint and undercarriage if possible. Months of storage will cause the dirt to absorb moisture and corrode metal. Basically, prepare the car as if you were going to a car show.

2. Clean up the interior of the car making sure to vacuum and dust everything. Lubricate the door/window seals with silicone.

3. Fill up the gas tank. It will prevent oxidation and displace any water. Add fuel system stabilizer and drive the car around for a few miles to ensure the stabilizer is mixed and dispersed throughout the fuel system.

4. Change the oil and filter, preferably at the storage facility. Oil starts accumulating moisture as soon as your new oil begins to circulate, so you want to eliminate this possibility.

5. Lay down a plastic vapor barrier in your storage facility. Concrete can transfer moisture to your car, so buy a sheet a little bigger than your car and drive right onto it. Don't set your parking brake! This could cause your rear brakes to fuse.

6. Place a desiccant silica pack in the interior and in the trunk. I have used DampRid, available at Home Depot. This will absorb moisture and smells, preventing mold in the process.

7. I do not put my car on jack stands. It is a hassle and I don't think it is worth it for the five months it will sit. I have never had any adverse effects.

8. Put steel wool in the tailpipes to prevent rodents from making it a home.

9. Remove the battery and take it home OR keep it on a tender if you can.

10. Cover the car with a quality car cover and say goodbye for the winter. I never start mine during storage time ... I just let it sit. Starting it does more harm than good in my opinion.
 
storage ah well.

yeah i agree with what you wrote. my car is almost ready to go in the garage for the cold dark nyc winter. but while she is there she will be getting a new engine installed along with a gn hood spolier and gnx fender flairs and louvers.
 
I would

store on jack stands if it is going to be 5 months. Only takes 20 minutes and the suspension is unloaded as well as the tires.
 
I think of theft deterrants,also. Like jacking it up,supported by the frame and putting the wheels in the basement.

I usually change the oil and filter,then get it up to operating temp before shutting it down. That way the clean oil is coating the internals. Not contaminated oil.

As far as stuff like Sta-bil. I believe I read something on that back of the bottle that I didn't like,that made it more of a gimick. Can't remember what it was. It's prolly home heating oil. ...red and has a long shelf life.

If I feel energetic,I'll turn the engine over by hand a little once in awhile. That relieves the tension on whatever valve springs have been squashed for months.

If unattended storage away from home... I'll make sure there aren't any tree branches that are gonna crash thru the roof,make sure the place is fireproof,and make sure it's rodent-proof by filling holes in the walls with steel wool and spray foam. Man,am I paranoid?

Mine won't be driven this winter unless the roads are completely salt-free here in Upstate NY. Lots of work planned. So,need to take test-drives.

Steve. '87 GN. Mostly stock with PowerLogger.
 
what is the popular opinion on this statement

I never start mine during storage time ... I just let it sit. Starting it does more harm than good in my opinion.



or should it be started and warmed up regularly during the storage period?


thanks
Jim
 
I never start mine during storage time ... I just let it sit. Starting it does more harm than good in my opinion.



or should it be started and warmed up regularly during the storage period?


thanks
Jim

You need to heat the oil, not coolant, up to a temp that'll burn off moisture, so IMO, don't start it unless you drive it, hard enough to build heat.
 
I usually change the oil and filter,then get it up to operating temp before shutting it down. That way the clean oil is coating the internals. Not contaminated oil.

As far as stuff like Sta-bil. I believe I read something on that back of the bottle that I didn't like,that made it more of a gimick. Can't remember what it was. It's prolly home heating oil. ...red and has a long shelf life.

Steve. '87 GN. Mostly stock with PowerLogger.

I forgot to mention to let the new oil circulate a bit. Thanks. I figured everyone started their car and let it circulate a bit. I usually change mine, drive it to fill up the tank and drive it back. That's about 1 mile.

For the couple of bucks it costs, I figure Stabil is worth it. I'm sure it is no miracle worker, but if it helps just a little bit and doesn't harm anything, it's ok. :) I've had people tell me it isn't the best stuff to run through 2-cycle jet skis, but it's great for 4-cycle. Don't know why that would be. Everyone has their beliefs and ways of doing things.
 
The more you can run the car during storage the better. Not good for anything mechanical to sit long periods of time without use.

It's also important to let the motor get to full temp when you do run it.

If you can't run the car periodicly, I would sugguest priming the oil system when the time does come to run the motor again.

As far as a good storage tip, Slick50 in a airasol can is one of the longest lasting spray oil I have ever used. You can spray the entire motor, exhaust, etc. When you come back in the spring, the stuff will still be there. Also great for your lawnmower, quad, snowmobile or anything made of metal you want to preserve. ;)
 
I just got back from my local Wallymart. This time I remembered to look at the back of one of those bottles of Sta-bil.
"Keeps fuel fresh for up to 12 months."

Then I looked up the CAS #: Dearomatized Kerosine. Paraffinic Solvent.

...just sayin'!
 
My storage routine is fill the tank, drive it in the garage the first time the sand truck comes out, find the car cover and cover it, close the garage door until the street sweeper goes by the driveway. Spring start up is uncover the car, open the garage door, drive to the golf course. Usually takes a couple of weeks before I give it its yearly oil change. Been doing this for 24 years and 140k, Seems fine.
 
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