Stripped Intake bolt

[Marc87GN]

The previous owner is an asshole. I just had to get that off of my chest. Now, I was just installing the RJC powerplate when I noticed that the right rear bolt hole is stripped. The other 4 fit tight, but this one is severely damaged and the vacuum line gets bolted to it. I never stripped any bolts so my Tap & Die set has not been used therefore I haven't had any practice.

I realize now why I haven't bought a used car in over 10 years. Some previous owners are hacks and are not quick to pass on all of the screwups that they have made. Will the 4 bolts keep a tight enough seal until I can fix it properly? Also, what's the best way to fix it? I can't seem to stop running into problems or discovering new things.

Marc

 

[Dan Thompson]

Some of the machinist will jump in here and use all the correct terms and names.

There are little coil thingys that you can put in the hole and it will hold the bolts.

 

[FastRegalWE2]

helicoil

 

[Marc87GN]

I just spoke to my friend and I should have known this. He said to use Permatex Stripped Thread Repair. It's perfect because the bolts don't need to be that tight plus he said he has used it and it held easily at 60 ft-lbs. http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81668

 

[rev. 3:11]

I think there was a thread similar to this a while back; because the intake, etc. is aluminum they are prone to stripping.
The consensus solution is to replace the bolts w/ studs. If you can back out the old bolt you can purchase studs that are a bit longer than the original bolts ( about 1/4" to 1/2" or the merttic equivalent) as the threads are tapped deeper than the bolts bottom out to.
This should solve the stripped-out thread problem because you will be hitting virgin threads (I can already hear the raunchy replies )
Thread sealer might help (but not the super-duper strength). the studs will let you r & r the intake as you like w/o stripping the bolt-holes. I have acorn nuts to hold it all together and give it a finished look.
I was running high BLM's and this was one of the problem areas, as the air was being pulled in between the plenum & intake.
HTH
Darrell

 

[Marc87GN]

Originally posted by rev. 3:11
I think there was a thread similar to this a while back; because the intake, etc. is aluminum they are prone to stripping.
The consensus solution is to replace the bolts w/ studs. If you can back out the old bolt you can purchase studs that are a bit longer than the original bolts ( about 1/4" to 1/2" or the merttic equivalent) as the threads are tapped deeper than the bolts bottom out to.
This should solve the stripped-out thread problem because you will be hitting virgin threads (I can already hear the raunchy replies )
Thread sealer might help (but not the super-duper strength). the studs will let you r & r the intake as you like w/o stripping the bolt-holes. I have acorn nuts to hold it all together and give it a finished look.
I was running high BLM's and this was one of the problem areas, as the air was being pulled in between the plenum & intake.
HTH
Darrell

I appreciate the info and studs sounds like a good idea. I'm just eager to get the car back together since I have driven it about 3 times since June 10th. Actually, this is not a thread sealer, but a thread making compound. From what I have been told, it looks like brand new threads when you are done and you can bolt and unbolt the part anytime.

I'm sure this has contrubuted to some of my idle problems. I'm interested to see how well the powerplate works because the theory behind it is sound. Hopefully, I can have her up and running by the weekend.

 

[Scott Atk]

I would go to the hardware store and get a bolt approx. 1/4" longer. When you added the PowePlate and two gaskets you gave up almost 1/4" of grip on the original bolts. A longer bolt will most likely work for you. I think the threads are 8mm x 1.25. Good Luck