Stripped out the accessory bracket where the two power steering bolts go, one of them the bolt snapped and is now stuck .. I tried to pik it out but with no luck. My two questions are how can I get the broken bolt out and how should I go about rethreading the holes and being able to use the stock bolts?!
Stripped out accessory bracket thread
- Thread starter gentek10
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Boostdeznuts
TURBO PART WHORE
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Why waist time doing all that ? I'll sell you one for $40 shipped 
If the bolt broke off and you have access to a Bridgeport mill you can easily mill it out. If the bolt is broken flush weld a nut to it and back it out. The heat from the weld will help free it. Otherwise you can try the extractor method after drilling. Id drill it to about 5mm before i tried to extract. If you drill too big the extractor will jam the threads. I'd heat it before you did anything. They used a mild threadlocker on those bolts. The thread is 8x1.25. I have a very high success rate removing broken bolts. The milling machine is best since a mill won't walk and you can easily fixture and indicate on the table.
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
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Bison beat me to it.....the weld a nut to the flush stud method....this works very well, especially for removing broken brake bleeder screws.....the other methods will work great also....Damn, Bison, you sure have a good memory to remember all of these sucessful methods.....you're a smart son of a gun!
I could only remember the weld method......downside of gettin' old
Bruce '87 Grand National
I could only remember the weld method......downside of gettin' old
Bruce '87 Grand National
A new bracket would be my last resort if I can't repair it for less.. I checked out the heli coil and timeserts , but I will go the heli coil route , seems more pocket friendly and I can pick it up at the local autostore. Bison that is good advice and i will definitly remember that , only the bolt is in there past a few threads. Will the extracter work even if the threads are stripped? Thanks
If it's in a bind with the aluminum the extractor will get you no place fast. Get some Kroil, heat the part up, and soak it in Kroil before you drill it. If you're lucky it will come out fairly easily, but make sure to drill all the way through the steel. If the extractor breaks then you can drive it all the way through. I've had this happen before and rather than trash a part you can still get the bolt out.
This is true but if it took me more than 15 minutes to get the broken piece out i would just throw it aside and grab another till it was cost effective time wise to repair it. The methods i described work but if you dont have a mill, welder, or extractors youre porked. You could waste several hours driving around trying to figure out what to do. Trying to drill out broken bolts (unless they can be center punched properly) is usually a waste of time. The drill will walk all over and you will wind up with a chit hole of a mess. Drilling without a pilot is a no go almost every time. You can be off center with the extractor method and it will still work most of the time but you have to have a feel for it. If its not going to go you need to try another method. Nothing worse than breaking an extractor off. If you really fudged it you could mill out a half inch worth of material and have it welded back up and resurface and drill it. Not worth it on something like this but ive repaired early 4 speed transmission cases that were bastardized and you wouldnt be able to tell unless you were looking for it and had it on the bench.
Probably not but what you could do if you dont have access to a bridgeport is use a small carbide burr to bore down to the broken bolt and then center punch and drill and extract. The bolt will be a darker silver than the aluminum. At that point you will have lost some threads and you can determine if you want to or need to weld it up and resurface drill and tap it or just use a longer fastener. Nothing wrong with drilling down further and tapping/bottom tapping either for more thread engagement.
If the threads are stripped, you have to drill and tap anyways. Like Bison said, it is very difficult to get the drill to center and not walk away from the center. Unfortunately I tend to muscle thing and have learned the hard way about broken bolts.. The extractor has its uses, as does any extraction method. I just prefer it because I have had a lot of success with it. So we have a stripped bracket with a broken bolt?
Nix
Nix
If they are seized in aluminum they usually don't come out. Especially when the threads are beat
Thinking about it either way it's gonna b a pain in the neck . The bracket is off the car so this should make it more accessible. I'm just going to give it a shot and try to center punch then drill it out . If all fails then Boostednuts will be receiving a pm ..
Boostdeznuts
TURBO PART WHORE
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I'll give you the two bolt too for free
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
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After removing the broken bolt using an extractor and heat, drill the holes out and use a longer bolt and put a nut on the back side. Self locking nuts work best. Seen this done on that exact spot many times. Alot of folks just plain can't install a helicoil. Not as easy as many think. I've installed hundreds of them and sometimes they still kick my butt.
