Stroker kit


I am looking ordering stroker kit for my 109 block, wich kit is best?
Is there any special machine works to fit it?
What support mods it needs..

you need to get the block machined inorder for the crank shaft to clear. I would suggest getting a shop to do your machining and install of the bottom end. Unless you know how to do that yourself.

The kits we sell are on sale. CRANK STROKER KIT Sold one of these recently to a board member and got rave reviews on the quality. Not going to post his name here but can have him contact you if you want. Also a HIGHLY respected board member saw this customers kit and liked what he saw as well.
I purchased one for Mark's stroker kits and was very impressed with it. We weighted each piston and rod and they were closer in weight as any kit we'd seen. Each was within a milligram.

When visually comparing the Scat rods to the K1 rods the Scat's look a tad beefier but weight less than the K1s. The JE pistons also turned out to weight less than the Diamond pistons.

Mark's stroker kit has a lighter rotating assembly than what I seen from his competition, but doesn't sacrifice strength and I would not hesitate in buying another one of his kits.
Do you send parts overseas and is paypall ok?

What else do i need? Bearings, Harmonic balancer, flexplate and cam?
What cam would be best for stroker kit.

Would need your complete shipping address to see if it even feasible. Do you have a good machine shop over there that can do this properly for you?
shiping adress.

You dont need to ship parts here. i have two friends and they do shipping from Florida and South Carolina.
I pay for you and you send goods for them, they will ship it to me whit reasonable freight..
I have good machine shop here.

I have personally had issues with the JE stroker pistons cracking at the valve relief notches to the upper ring land. They need to lower the top ring land. They cut the dish too wide and then add the valve reliefs and its a recipe for a crack on a 650+hp. engine. Three outta a set were cracked. I have not had any issues with Diamond pistons. Maybe I am the only one, though. I usually have ZERO problems with JE though. Nice quality. Do verify pin to pin boss clearance if you are building big power. (especially on pump gas and alky) You might need to open it up a tenth or three (.0001"-.0003") for more oil clearance to prevent galling. be sure to lube well during assembly.
Fortunately the cracks didn't propagate and burn up the cylinderwall/piston, and it may never have, but I replaced them anyway.
Also carefully check the rod bolt to cam lobe clearance with the SCAT rods. There is a current post dealing with that.
Thanks for the heads up turbofabricator I'll pay extra attention to those clearances when I get to that point. The only think I've run into so far is the wrist pins will not fit into the rods. We're going to need to ream the rods to get the wrist pins to float.