Stuck caliper bleeder screws

["Turbo-T"]

Ran into a snag here....one of my front calipers has a stuck bleeder screw.

I've heard PB blaster and heat works good.....would a Bernzomatic propane torch be hot enough? Or is there another method I should go with 1st?

Thanks.

 

[1quick6]

I assume you have tried a deep well 6 point socket rather than a bleeder wrench.

There are a couple of things to try:
Spray it with PB blaster and gently tap the sides of the bleeder to get a better chance of getting the chemical into the threads a bit. Give it some time and try the socket on it.

You can try heat and the propane torch will get it plenty hot. You just want to heat it up, but not to the point where the brake fluid boils. The heat will help draw penetrating oil deeper into the threads. Use common sense and you'll have a good shot. One thing that might work is to heat it up just a bit (not super hot) and then spray starting fluid directly on the bleeder so it cools faster than the surrounding metal. This will cool it quicky and jolt some of the rust loose, so get your socket on there quick. Again, don't get the bleeder really hot when doing this because obviously starting fluid is flammable.

If you are lucky enough to get it unstuck, make sure you completely flush that brake line until you see clean new fluid. Do yourself a favor and put a new bleeder in. They have them in the Help section at the auto parts store. They are 10mm x 1.25

Unfortunately, using stress and heat on this hollow screw gives you a good chance of breaking it off flush with the caliper and you'll then be replacing that to get where you want to be. I had to replace both rear wheel cylinders due to one rounded bleeder when I was last overhauling my system.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Yes I did try undoing the screw using a 6 point socket and believe me it's stuck in there pretty darn good.

If this method sounds ok, I will try just PB blaster first and see if that doesn't help. And if not then add heat.

 

[1quick6]

Yes I did try undoing the screw using a 6 point socket and believe me it's stuck in there pretty darn good.

If this method sounds ok, I will try just PB blaster first and see if that doesn't help. And if not then add heat.

I think you'll be lucky if just PB works. It sounds like you've put plenty of effort in it so I am surprised it didn't twist and break already. I'd give heat and fluid directly on the bleeder a try. That shock might get it. The basic principle is applying heat and then cooling the bleeder only with fluid so it shrinks and breaks away from the surrounding heated/expanded metal. I'm no metallurgist, but give it a try.

 

[gunslinger]

Why not just replace the calipers? They're only about $20 each. The time you spend screwing around (pun intended) with the bleeders, isn't worth it.

 

[Just a Six??]

Why not just replace the calipers? They're only about $20 each. The time you spend screwing around (pun intended) with the bleeders, isn't worth it.

Exactly!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Why not just replace the calipers? They're only about $20 each. The time you spend screwing around (pun intended) with the bleeders, isn't worth it.

Because I'm trying to minimize the amount of work to be done here plus when you replace calipers you can sometimes open a new can of worms; last time I replaced calipers we had some mad issues with getting the banjo bolts to seat right.

So I'm hoping to avert all of that. :biggrin:

 

[gn4u2c]

when you install new calipers always put hi temp anitseize on the threads.

use a small wire brush on any threads you can get to plus this can help break the rust (seal) turn caliper up on the side and clean out the bleed hole and fill it with penetrating lube, hit threads also pb will be fine let it sit for 10 min or so. use your torch to heat the caliper about 1 inch around the bleeder use caution to keep the heat directed away from the bleeder. try to tighten the bleeder just a touch first, then back it off should be good to go.

 

[Pronto]

Why not just replace the calipers? They're only about $20 each. The time you spend screwing around (pun intended) with the bleeders, isn't worth it.

No contest for time saved! If you want to get back to driving your car, just get some new calipers.

 

[Just a Six??]

No contest for time saved! If you want to get back to driving your car, just get some new calipers.

With some new lines & there you go off to the races for $100

 

[gn4u2c]

yeah, pads, hoses,calipers, pt of fluid all for less than $100.00

 

[fitz3820]

Or you can order this - I have one, works great

Brake Free [4001] - $49.99 : Phoenix Systems

 

["Turbo-T"]

Tried the PB blaster only...I managed to get one bleeder screw of the two for the front calipers loose....now the other is still a PITA despite shooting it with PB blaster twice and letting it sit, then shooting it again and tappin on it with the hammer....

I'm going to try the heat route. Would a Bernzomatic torch from O Reillys (used for soldering pipes) be hot enough to get it loose? Or do I need a hotter torch to get the job done?

 

[1quick6]

Yes, that's plenty hot. You don't need much heat, nor do you want it. Heat the area to the point it would burn your finger if you touched it and then spray the bleeder with a quick shot of starter fluid to cool it. Get a socket on there quickly and I'll bet you get it.