Stuck/dragging front calipers

[dragrazor]

Recently i changed over to vacuum brakes from the powermaster. I installed a new brass proportioning valve, reman booster and master cylinder. I installed a filter in the vacuum hose and bought the vacuum block with the extra port. I installed new russell braided brake lines in the front but havent changed the rear. I bled the brakes like i read how to do. Now when i drive, i notice that the car is dragging. It seems that both front calipers are dragging in the front. The front rims get really hot and i see smoke coming from the front rims. Any ideas? I did change the pedal and put new brake fluid.


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[dragrazor]

Now i drove it and it drove fine WTF!!!!! It does it sometimes. This car is going to drive me to drinking..... Wait.... Nevermind, i am drinking!


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[Phoneguy]

Did you use anti seize on the caliper slides?
Bryan

 

[dragrazor]

Caliper slides? Please elaborate.


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[Phoneguy]

The mounting bolts, sleeves and bushings need to be lubricated to keep them from binding.

Bryan

 

[QWKRTNU]

Im having the same issue on the passenger side. But I have the power master. New brakes and one side being dumb

 

[Phoneguy]

Calipers have a square cut seal on the piston. Over time sediments will settle in the caliper and cause pits on the piston, this will cause the piston to not be able to slide back into the correct position causing the caliper to drag the pads.

Bryan

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Recently i changed over to vacuum brakes from the powermaster. I installed a new brass proportioning valve, reman booster and master cylinder. I installed a filter in the vacuum hose and bought the vacuum block with the extra port. I installed new russell braided brake lines in the front but havent changed the rear. I bled the brakes like i read how to do. Now when i drive, i notice that the car is dragging. It seems that both front calipers are dragging in the front. The front rims get really hot and i see smoke coming from the front rims. Any ideas? I did change the pedal and put new brake fluid.


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A "filter" in the vac hose??
Hot/smoke? Plan on a new set of pads, [or, a sanding on the belt sander], and a rotor clean up on the brake lathe. [since the influx of the Ho Chi Min rotors, I've yet to find 1 SINGLE rotor that didn't have to be trued up, prior to installing.]
Did you adjust the actuation rod for free play ? Too long, & pressure can be trapped in the lines.
Did you check the adjustment on the pin that's between the m/c and the booster? Too long, & pressure can be trapped in the lines.

 

[turbo nasty]

Front brake calipers are very common to stick on these cars. Piston in caliper, brock or bent caliper pin slide pins, etc are common causes

 

[dragrazor]

A "filter" in the vac hose??
Hot/smoke? Plan on a new set of pads, [or, a sanding on the belt sander], and a rotor clean up on the brake lathe. [since the influx of the Ho Chi Min rotors, I've yet to find 1 SINGLE rotor that didn't have to be trued up, prior to installing.]
Did you adjust the actuation rod for free play ? Too long, & pressure can be trapped in the lines.
Did you check the adjustment on the pin that's between the m/c and the booster? Too long, & pressure can be trapped in the lines.

I bought the kit from advance auto so i assume the pin is the correct one. By filter, i meant the plastic canister you install in the vacuum line from the booster to the vacuum block. Its the one you can get in the help section in the auto parts store. I forgot the actual name of the thing!

 

[1fastcobra]

Sounds like air in the system
How did u bleed them should be
Rr.lr.rf.lf. and did u bench bleed the master ??

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[dragrazor]

Yes, i bench bled the m/c and did the bleed sequence. Would that cause the brakes to drag sometimes? It does it at times and then works great?


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[1fastcobra]

Did u flush the entire system. Did u install the new hoses before pushing the calipers back ??
I know this sounds dumb. But did u install them on the wrong sides. Bleeder at the bottom.
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[dragrazor]

Did u flush the entire system. Did u install the new hoses before pushing the calipers back ??
I know this sounds dumb. But did u install them on the wrong sides. Bleeder at the bottom.
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I flushed the entire system with new brake fluid, i took the calipers off to get to the bleeder screw cause it would not budge so i replaced the bleeder screws. I am pretty certain that i did not put them back on wrong. I never pushed the calipers back because i did not replace the brake pads. Should i have pushed the caliper piston back in?


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[chopped39]

Could be a sticking caliper. Could be the rod length. could be a sticking or misadjusted brake switch. When they are sticking loosen the line at the master and see if they loosen up. If they do the rod is not adjusted right or the switch is pushed in too far.I they don't loosen up go to the bleeder and see if they loosen up. if they don't loosen up when the bleeder is open the square cut seal is not pulling the piston back. could be the proportioning valve but I have never seen one cause a sticking problem unless installed wrong. hope this helps

 

[1fastcobra]

Could be a sticking caliper. Could be the rod length. could be a sticking or misadjusted brake switch. When they are sticking loosen the line at the master and see if they loosen up. If they do the rod is not adjusted right or the switch is pushed in too far.I they don't loosen up go to the bleeder and see if they loosen up. if they don't loosen up when the bleeder is open the square cut seal is not pulling the piston back. could be the proportioning valve but I have never seen one cause a sticking problem unless installed wrong. hope this helps

Rod adjusttment. !!!! ????? They are not threaded it just pops in the switch is for the rear lights. Nothing to do with calipers.

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[haywire4130]

Its unlikely both calipers seized up at the exact same time so I would tend to agree with the above about something not releasing all the way. Check that the brake light switch isnt keeping the pedal from releasing all the way, youd be suprised. Just a sliiiight application of the brakes will cause them to drag/get hot, and the hotter they get the more they drag and so on. If that checks out, take a c clamp and see if you can push the piston in (with the caliper and rotor still mounted). If they take much effort to push in theyre sticking. This also tests to see if the guides and pin are free. The caliper needs to be able to float and center itself over the rotor. Reman calipers are cheap.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I bought the kit from advance auto so i assume the pin is the correct one. By filter, i meant the plastic canister you install in the vacuum line from the booster to the vacuum block. Its the one you can get in the help section in the auto parts store. I forgot the actual name of the thing!

The pin may/may not be correct. You can pull the m/c loose from the booster, put a washer on the studs, and tighten back up. Take a drive.. Dragging? Not the pin. OK? Pin needs to be shortened.