Surface rust on rearend

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POR15 is some serious shit. I spent countless hours one year under my car, scraping, cleaning, degreasing etc my under carriage when i had my motor and transmission out. I will never do it again in my garage. I made such a mess of the garage floor and myself it wasn't funny. If you use POR15, read their website very carefully. if you don't prep your surface area properly this stuff will peel off like a banana when it is touched or wiped. Cover ALL skin area's from this stuff. It warns you about it but me being me, I was like I'm just going to throw on some rubber gloves and have at it. Well this stuff did come in contact with parts of my forearm, and it takes basically a month for it to eventually fade off your skin. The end result was great. The more rust the better the adhesion with POR15. What it's doing is adhering to the rust and forming it's own surface, by doing that, it stops the rust from continuing to spread.
 
I am not sure how I argue with the statement above?? Not that we are here to argue of course.
I really want to seal up the thin metal floor pans so I don't have to worry. Frame rails will also get treated but my immediate worry is the floor pans. They have a little bit of scale that I want to stop in their tracks. The car will not see rain or the like, but still want to be safe. Wish metal did not rust.
If you want to be realistic it does not matter much what you do as long as it is something. If, in fact, the car won't even see much rain, you are worrying too much. Taking care of any rust, o coating of any flavor to make it look pretty, and in 20 years it will still look fine. You will have plenty of other things you can spend your energy on, trust me.
 
Very good point Gully! And like most car guys, it will likely go in one of my ears and out the othter. :)
I am so nuts worrying about the scale (won't even use the word rust) I feel the need to do something and while under there I'll do what the majority declare as the best approach and there's been nothing but raving on the POR.
I'll start on it this weekend and see how it goes. Not so worried about pretty as I am about longevity and no more rrrruuuusss (scale).
sorry for hijacking the post. Great post Mike and the white on that car is terrific, I bet she turns plenty of heads!!
Joel
 
If, in fact, the car won't even see much rain, you are worrying too much.

X2 on this. I think if metal doesn't see any moisture it won't rust in the timeframes that mortals would be concerend with.

In 1998 I stripped a camaro firewall down to bare steel and got sidetracked. It has been garaged (not heated) ever since in this state. From what I can tell, there is no appreciable rust. Conversly, back in the day I had stripped the outside paint of the same car and left it uncoated overnight. When I came back in the moring, just the morning dew had rusted the steel quite noticably (cleaned it off with acid treatment if I remember), considerably more than the dry stripped firewall has in the last 15 years from what I can tell.

Furthermore, I have left vehicles garaged for weeks or more before cutting open a body panel open.... to find still wet dirt (leaves etc.) packed behind the rusted panel.

For a rear end that is not going to see the elements I wouldn't be afraid of any of the methods above.
 
I'll go through the underside this weekend, make sure I address any potential problem areas and then be done with it.
I need to deal with the small section of rot on the A-pillar, will need to gut that piece out and weld in replacement.
Joel
 
If your gonna go after the underside, there's a ledge above & just forward of the rear axel, it's part of the floorpan, that goes accross the car, between where the rear upper control arms bolt up... it catches a ton of debris & holds lots of moisture. Clean it up as well as you can before you start painting anything back there.

I used generic degreaser, scrub brushes, scothbrite pads, a water hose, a air compressor, wire wheels, & protective clothing. I had POR15 on my skin & in my hair for a couple weeks! Cover up (think TYVEX suit) & plan to throw out some gloves, glasses, & rags.

Hope this helps.
 
Yes turbo negro your post is very helpful and I'll look close at that area this weekend.

Man do I with I had a lift, up on jack stands now and not nearly as much room as I'd like.

Joel
 
Por is your best option, can get it gloss or satin. Brush it on but wear gloves, you won't want it on ya. Msds sheet shows its full of lead and isocyanates if I remember right, but that's why it works so good, good luck
 
Por is your best option, can get it gloss or satin. Brush it on but wear gloves, you won't want it on ya. Msds sheet shows its full of lead and isocyanates if I remember right, but that's why it works so good, good luck
You best buy it now then before the EPA outlaws it! I also used it and it worked great. Pealed off my control arms but I think I didn't have enough rust for it to stick to. It is Paint Over Rust for a reason. Instructions say if a bead of sweat drips off your head into the can it will ruin the entire can. Just read that yesterday on their website. If you want to clean up the underside, you could get your transmission cross member powder coated, and use metal polish with a"00" brillo pad on your exhuast pipes.
 
Best thing I did was pull the rear out removed the brakes took it over to my powder coaters. He blasted the rear with Aluminum oxide
for $40.00 Brough it home cleaned it up with some surface prep. Painted it with Extreme Chasis black from Eastwood. Replaced the bushings while I had it out along with the brake lines. Came out great. Por15 is hard to use must read the directions really good.
Im only going to use that stuff on my inside floor pans from now on. Anything else and its just too messy.
 
Thank you for the advice on exhaust

The exhaust is completely original and could use some cleaning while i am at it

So can i not use por on unrusted areas? Only litterally over rust?
Joel
 
Yes, only on rust. It is explained on their website. It only sticks to rust...the more the better.
 
I have used POR 15 many times on all different surfaces and never had good results. It always turns dull or gray, and always peels. I know that 3 of my friends had the same problems. I would not recommend it.

I used Rustoleum satin black on my rear axle 2 years ago after wire brushing and cleaning. Still looks great, but car spends most of the time in the garage.
 
That's why SEM is better! Doesn't dull and never peels off rust or clean metal. All the plow trucks around here use it to save the frame.
 
I used POR on my frame and suspension. I am a painter/ bodyman and followed the directions. I used the acid to prep non rusty areas, which after washing off with the water cleaner, it rusts, and it peeled off in spots after 5 years. I changed rear ends and used VHT epoxy spray paint after wire wheeling the rear end the beat I could, after 3 years, it still looks good. I would use rust oleum before POR next time. Summit has an epoxy satin or semi gloss black that is really nice too, that is what is going on my next frame after it is blasted.
 
Remove the rear axle, its easier to do it that way. While its out you can install the urethane control arm bushings.
 
Above is corect like most of front end parts and driveshaft GM did not paint that parts in question....ideally from my point of view I would do everything in a satin black color that way it blends in better rather than draws attention to the area and looks better than rust.

Whatever prep work or product works best is your choice or suggestions mentioned but satin black for a color would be the best.

denniskirban@yahoo.com

I have a little experience on these cars.....
DENNIS KNOWS "A THING OR TWO" ABOUT A THING OR TWO!!
 
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