Ta block build?

[Adam Connell]

Well, I did a little searching and did not come up with much of anything... Whats the story on the Ta block? What power levels will it hold up to? Is this a streetable block or track only? My eventual goals for this car down the road is roughly 800-900fwhp and completely streetable(alky/pump gas or E85) running a twin turbo setup. What the price difference vs. a fully prepped and girdled 109 block and the difference being the block only?

The big thing I want out of this is to do it once and do it right the first time, so if it is within a couple of thousands bucks it would be worth it to me. Im going to start pulling together parts for this next engine build, so Im just checking all of my options...

 

[Nick Micale]

I know of a few TA alum blocks well over the 1000 HP level.!

My TA block, the protype, has over 200 runs on the current build in the 9 sec range over the past 20 months, and is still going great.:biggrin:

Machine work and parts for a 9 sec. alum block will put you to within a couple thousand $$$ of a girdled, steel cap, and other mods for a 109 block.

We have about 6 109 blocks from 9 sec. build GN's over the past year that are scrap iron for various structural failures which are not repairable. Couple other 109's were repaired, and figure at least $2K to get them through another 20-50 runs.

 

[SGRIM]

I think it is a good choice, I plan to build one in the future. My main concern is that fact that sooner or later we are going to run out of 109's

 

[Alky V6]

Adam. Do the TA block. You will not regret it. Also, use heads that will allow you to take advantage of the 6 studs per hole. You would just be building a short fuse time bomb with a 109 block.

If you have the chance to compare the bottom end of a 109 to a TA block, it will make you wonder why anyone would build a 109 for big HP numbers.

 

[V6RACER]

You would just be building a short fuse time bomb with a 109 block. If you have the chance to compare the bottom end of a 109 to a TA block, it will make you wonder why anyone would build a 109 for big HP numbers.

Cause it's fun..

 

[49-blues]

check with BillyT- he just got his running-a awesome combo!

 

[rmar]

Whats the going rate for a T/A block?

 

[WHITE T]

Last I heard $3900.

They are beautiful! I want to put a piece of glass over one and make a table!

 

[gnxtc2]

Doughtful you can get the machine work done for a couple thousand. Don't forget that you need special motor mounts made by HR PArt & Stuff. There some specific TA Block parts you need if choose to go with a stock oiling system.

Don't put a OEM cast crank in it, look for a forging or billet piece. The OEM crank will flex.

Definitely look for 14 bolt head.

Dave Fiscus has a TA Block with Stage 2 heads and he gone 8.31 @ 167.

Tony Gomes has gone in the 8s with his. There are few others.

All the mains are cross bolted. The mains and splayed ones are studs.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Adam Connell]

Wow ok! This is definitely the info I was looking for. I had only seen Don's combo listing a TA block on this board and I live down in Texas so I never make it to any big buick events, so I was not really sure how popular these blocks are.

I was wondering about the stock blocks, seems like it's just way too easy to nuke one beyond repair, and I really like only doing things once if I can. Im not looking for 8s or even 9s, just a wicked street car thats reliable and capable of hanging with the best.

Any suggestions as far as someone who could build me an engine based off this block? I know Dan at DLS has a good rep with the 109s. Nick do you build complete engines, or who builds yours?

 

[49-blues]

BillyT- what coating do you have on the piston tops? I guess you dont have to run any sealer on the head studs- they dont go through the water jacket?

 

[gnxtc2]

BillyT- what coating do you have on the piston tops? I guess you dont have to run any sealer on the head studs- they dont go through the water jacket?

Whatever Diamond puts on them. I guess I could look through my papers if you really want to know.

That's right, the holes are blind. You need special studs with aluminum. You can not use regular Stage 2 studs, threads will rip out. The threads on the studs (block end) are long. The studs are open stock from ARP. If I wanted shorter threads, then the stud is a special order and I will have to submit drawings for ARP to make them. I was told that the ARP engineers will not make a special order without drawings . So I lived with the longer threads.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[Alky V6]

That brings up a good point. All the head stud holes in a TA block should be helicoiled with the long style inserts. This adds holding power to the holes. No future worries about holes pulling out. Use drill bushings and tap aligners to keep everything straight.

 

[tom j]

I guese this would be a good time to ask this. What is a ballpark price for a TA longblock from Arizona GN lets with the followwing-ta 14 bolt heads-roller cam-steal crank-good rods ect.. Something that would be ready to drop in after installing acessories and run low 9's and maybe high 8's if pushed hard.

 

[Reggie West]

Bring 25K and drop it off with any of the following.

Duttweiler
DLS
Bill Anderson
Nick Micale

If there is any change left over you can then go buy a built TH 400 from Don Wang or Lonnie Diers.

There are others that i cant think of but I am sure other people will chime in here. My advice: Pick one of these guys close to you so you can see what is going on.


Do a search in Stage 2 section and you will get an idea on the level of details involved in building a TA block. If you dont know what you are doing you will kill a lot of expensive parts.

I guese this would be a good time to ask this. What is a ballpark price for a TA longblock from Arizona GN lets with the followwing-ta 14 bolt heads-roller cam-steal crank-good rods ect.. Something that would be ready to drop in after installing acessories and run low 9's and maybe high 8's if pushed hard.

 

[Adam Connell]

Holy crap I wasn't expecting that kind of number... is there a sick amount of machine work involved or whats going on there?? I am planning on just buying parts as I find deals on them, so hopefully it wont come close to that... I was thinking 15k-ish... ahaha guess these turbo 6s are a lot more pricey to build than I thought! Guess I better start a penny jar...

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Ya it's going to add up fast considering you have to buy every part. I don't see putting a stock crank in it so there's $700 just for the forged one alone and that's one of the cheapest parts you're going to buy for it.

Anyone care to brake down what they spent on the main parts alone.

EX

Block
Heads Complete/Ported
Crank
Rods
Pistons
Roller Cam Kit
Machine Work Estimate

Turbo and tranny at the hp level above are probably over $2k each.

 

[ijames]

If you just send a check to one of the top builders and have them buy everything new it will cost that much to get a complete motor back, broken in on a dyno, with intial tune. If you are good at scrounging parts and the builder will work with you adapting used parts that may not be exactly what he would have specified, and with no dyno time or tuning you can cut that in half or better. Just changing from assembled long block to complete motor with exhaust manifolds, turbo(s), injectors, engine management, motor mounts, and all plumbing ready to drop in, with dyno break-in and initial tune is a good $5-10K swing right there, after buying all the parts for the long block and doing all the machining and assembly.

 

[shorti28]

Or you could by my stage 2 iron block that only needs a crank (3.590), a rod and a balancer for $6500 with Gn1 cnc race ported heads with a full roller setup. Oilpan to tbody has run 9's and can handle 1,000 hp easy. I will also give all the front pullies and remote oil fitler setup. I am going to a LS style motor. Don't mean to hijack just really hurtin for cash (as most are right now) This motor on a mild tune put down 717hp to the wheels on race gas @24lbs but still would kill most cars on pump and 15lbs very streetable.

 

[S2V6RACER]

If you don't have the cash now wait and get the thing done right and you will be happy with the results. I have spent THOUSANDS trying to save a buck only to have disappointment and a handful of below par passes before problems surface only to spend thousands again having things tweaked (again). The treadmill nightmare never ends. I spent $$ one time with Dan at DLS and it was the best $$ I ever spent and I have more passes at BIG power levels for less $$ I spent with all the run arounds before him.

DLS, RPE, Zimmerman, Anderson have cars out running at every event. I would call all of them and make a choice from there.


Just a bit of advice.