TCI #243015

[robzombie]

Has anyone used this converter ????

How does it compare to other converters out there, and would it be better for me to step up to a 9.5 ptc lu.

The TCI is a 10" and is what's in the car right now with the combo in my sig.

I'm looking to see if the added cost of a PTC would be justifiable if someone could point out the differences that I could expect in ET and slip differences if posssible.

Mostly driven on the street, but will see some track time.

Thanks for any help that you can give me.

RZ.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Any car making 10 sec power will drive through a crappy converter. The Summit catalog converters have a stall rating for a mild small block. The v6 will stall lower than advertised at 0 boost, and them slip like crazy when power is applied.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

We'd have to know what your goals are. How fast your planning to run. I see in your sig where it says the converter stalls 2800 at 0# boost. Is this correct? What rpm do you shift the engine at?

 

[robzombie]

My goals are that I have the best possible setup for what I have right now. I will be taking it to the track for the first time in a couple weeks. I'm trying to set the car up to run 10.50/80 range for longevity purposes.

The converter does stall at around 27/800 and 0#s and around 28/2900 at 2/4 lbs. with the tires breaking loose at about that rpm on the street. It's not always the same every time I brake load it [must be inconsistent brake pressure/road grip] and try to build boost for a launch.

The engine shifted out at 52/5400 with the crappy trans that was in there and I just installed the EA in the sig and have yet to drive it to see what it will do.

The speedo was off 10 MPH with the old trans and now should be corrected for the 28" tall tires I'm running.

If there's something I'm leaving out just ask.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Your current converter will have a hard time coupling at the 10.50 level even if you shift at 5600. The final shift point will be determined by your cam size.

To run 10.50 I do feel you will need another converter. If you can shift at 5800 then this converter will sneak into the 10's.

 

[robzombie]

Which converter would you recommend me using for the best 60ft. times and consistency through the top end pull???

Should I be using something that will stall at 3/3200 rpm???

It has to be a LU for obvious reasons.

Thanks RZ

 

[robzombie]

Any car making 10 sec power will drive through a crappy converter

What makes this a crappy converter??? Stall speed, my combo/OR ??? Would this converter be fine in an 11 second car???

I Haven't run with the alky dialed in yet, but I also haven't had a good trans in it until now to take advantage of what power is available.

I also think I might need a little higher stall to help me out of the hole, it builds boost instantaneously as soon as it hits about 3200 rpm and will go to 18 lbs. in less than a second[no alky], but I also like the way this converter makes it feel like it's stock under normal driving conditions.

Is there a converetr that will do both well????

 

[forcefed3.8's]

That converter is for a mild small block. The problem with converters in these cars is the converter has to stall high enough to spool the turbo. So 0 boost stall is from a 231" less than 200hp engine. Then when boost comes in, you are more than doubling the hp/torque in the matter of 100's of rpms, making the converter flash stall very high, and these engines don't have enough rpm to make the converter couple. Once the car is making 10 sec power, that is when you really start to push a converters flash.

 

[robzombie]

What would be the best converter for this setup ???

I will change this one after I go to the track and find out how much is really on the table.

I can feel that I'm getting way more slippage than I should above 12lbs. of boost at full throttle with the ALKY on.

I shift out at 5,600/5,800 rpm, the rev limiter kicks in at 6000 rpm.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

IMO for 10.50 I would get away from the lock-up. Poeple drive without lock-ups all the time now. The issue is the core that has to be used to retain lock-up does a poor job of coupling that kind of power. Even a 2800 stall will have considerable slip, the 3200 would have way too much slip. The 9.5 can have a 3000-3200 stall but have the slip of a 2400 stall so you get spool without sacrificing slip.

 

[robzombie]

Thanks for the advise so far, I just bought my trans and it has the LU installed so I'm going to have to go with a LU converter.

I guess the only question now is which one is the best one, [part#/price] for what I have for a combo now which from what you said above I'm guessing is the 9.5 and I'll keep the times around 10.80 or slower.

Thanks Rob.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

You can swap out the lock up valve for a non lock valve by removing the pan. For a first timer it's about a 30 minute job.

 

[robzombie]

I'm going to need a converter, I talked to Lonnie and have it all worked out.

Which converter am I going to need ? I already know you recommend the 9.5. But how many vanes?? 17 or 18 [OR??] and how much.

You can PM me # if you want to talk and discuss this further and make it easier for me, as I suck at typing and maybe I could order the T/C over the phone.

To run 10.50 I do feel you will need another converter. If you can shift at 5800 then this converter will sneak into the 10's.

The rev limiter is set for 6000and I usually shift out at 5,6/800 rpm.

Thanks RZ