The myth of condensation in fuel tanks

[Welby]

The inside of my tank isn't ferrous metal...its plastic. How did you get a stiff wire brush on the backside of the baffles in your gas tank? Have you ever looked in there?

That's what I was saying, mine's plastic too . When I threw my Walbro in it I remember being surprised by it....

 

[Mark E.]

When I picked up our Vista Cruiser, it had sat for 21 years. Had some gas in the tank. Ran it. Exhaust sure smelled funny. Ran it real dry a few times and started driving it all the time. Never did pull the tank and it has been almost 3 years. Never misses a beat. Probably need to check that fuel filter. :biggrin:

 

[SVORay]

That's what I was saying, mine's plastic too . When I threw my Walbro in it I remember being surprised by it....

I wonder if the plastic coating is an aftermarket tank?


Anyhow, I wouldn't waist my time trying to scrub a tank down. It's worth the cost for me to simply buy a new tank...if they still make the tanks for our cars. Also, I'm not sure on this subject but I do know It's good to keep atleast a 1/4 tank to cool your fuel pumps down.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Sounds like if I leave my tank empty it is worse than having it full of gas while storing it??

 

[SVORay]

That is what it sounds like to me...but I want ever store my car. I have had experience with rusted out tanks. I used to own some old Chevy trucks and the rust sucked butt. It would clug up the filters or carbs. I was always having to clean the crabs. They realy needed new tanks but I was in school and couldn't aford to do it.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

i meant on rusted parts overall. I know you cant get inside a fuel tank. but, a lot of places you think you cant get, you can. with a rifle bore rod/brush.

 

[bison]

The inside of my tank isn't ferrous metal...its plastic. How did you get a stiff wire brush on the backside of the baffles in your gas tank? Have you ever looked in there?

I used carb cleaner on the fuel return line...no stiff wire brushes are going in there. When I was actually doing this (not in theory) right or wrong was determined by if it worked or not. It worked...for two years with no problems:biggrin:

chris

The baffling may be a polymer but the inside of the tank is stamped steel and is exposed to the fuel and air in the tank. I dont see how it would be possible to seal the tank with the baffling and have it coated on the inside. It sure as hell wouldnt be cost effective. Once one of these tanks rusts inside you will never be able to get rid of the rust without splitting the tank open and sanding/grinding it off.

 

[8AV8]

Every one of these 20 year old tanks probably has some rust in it.

Bison you said "Once these things start to rust they get bad really fast."

Mine sat up rusting for seven years and I have only changed the filter once since I cleaned the tank and lines and everything is fine. I didn't buy a car that I was told this about. I saw it every day gathering dust.

I am just trying to share what worked for me.

 

[BASS]

Assuming I do have rust in my tank, would it be ok to drive around without boosting for a couple of fill-ups and let the gas filter pick up all the rust in the tank? I am getting knock when I go WOT, and im pretty sure its the rust screwing me up..(my car was sitting for 5 years with only 5 gallons in it)..

Who sells a new GM tank anyways?? I see the A1 aftermarket tank on ebay that looks ok..Is that the exact match of a GM one (i.e. has the baffles??)

 

[Renthorin]

BASS - not sure who sells them but make SURE it is for a turbo Regal. If you get the NA tank it will not have the internal baffling and your pump will come up dry on hard acceleration when the gas rushes to the back of the tank.

A friend of mine went through two sets of head gaskets before he figured out it was the new “1987 Regal” gas tank that was the problem.

 

[BASS]

Ok, assuming I do have rust in my tank, is there any way this rust would go past the fuel filter and into the fuel rail/fpr.?? I want to just drive the car and go through a few tanks without boosting and let the filter pick up all the rust....

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I put a drain on my tank after I got it flushed and cleaned. You might want to go this route if you put a new one in to dump any rust or fuel in the future.

 

[BASS]

Do they sell some kind of sump pump made for gas tanks that will suck up all the rust??

 

[Lee_Burough]

I think Ron Popiel is coming out with one for $19.95 with a few steak knives thrown in...

 

[GNVYUS 1]

IMO, the only way to ensure you are cleaning out all of the rust flakes and build up is to send it out to get flushed. Sucking out the rust on the floor of the tank is not going to stop it from growing on the tank itself inside.

No Ron Popiel pump on the market that I know of.

 

[bison]

This discussion about trying to suck out or remove rust is not good. If the tank has rust in it it should be replaced. It wont stop once it starts and rust will constantly pollute the fuel. It will wear out the pump, clog filters, injectors, and jam regulators. If i had the choice between a new un-baffled tank and a rusty baffled one i would choose the new un-baffled tank. Just keep 10-12 gallons in it when launching hard. If your engine is nearly stock a lean out/detionation from rust is probably not going to cost you much. If you have 600 hp or plan to have a quick car in the future then replace the tank even if it costs excessive $. A pounded out set of bearings and melted piston will cost a lot more. I have seen plenty of used tanks cheap. Its easy to tell if they are rusty when you look in them.

 

[turbofish38]

Most larger radiator shops have the equipment to clean the rust out of fuel tanks. And its safe on plastic so you dont have to worry about the plastic internal baffle getting damaged.


One occuring problem I have had on my cars that sit for long periods is that some of the fuel line or rubber hose that we use to connect the fuel pump to the sending unit will deteriorate after awhile. I've seen hose completly disappear and the fuel/stabilizer mix will be black and sticky. How do you fix that problem? I've also have had pumps sieze up too. I just let them sit in SeaFoam for an hour or two and they free up. These are DDs and parts cars so I'm not worried about leaning the motor out. Hard to say what it is doing to the rest of the fuel system.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Maybe this will help a little.
I did a search and found this company who makes OEM replacement tanks out of California.
Fuel Tank - Automotive Parts Network
$146.85 + $19.97 S/H in the Continental US.
I called them and asked if the tank has the factory style plastic baffle, they said that it does have an internal baffle but it is metal not plastic. I asked if the tank was coated, they said that it is triple coated inside and out to help prevent rusting issues.
Sounds like a decent deal, especially considering that it is specific for Fuel Injection and turbocharged '87 Buick Grand National. They even give you the option of selecting Grand National when you are doing the search so someone there knows what these cars are.
Hope this helps a little.

Patrick

 

[BASS]

Hmm, I wonder if it has the same baffle design as the oems? Also, it says 17 gallon, arent our tanks 18 gallons?

 

[turbofish38]

Hmm, I wonder if it has the same baffle design as the oems? Also, it says 17 gallon, arent our tanks 18 gallons?

The baffle issue on these brand X tanks as been beaten to death. The baffle is a metal pie plate spot welded to the bottom. It has no sides. The sock sits in the deep part of the pie pan. I do beleive some one commented that there will always be about one gallon of fuel that will go unused because of the height of the edge of the pie pan.