Things to look for when buying a stage 2???

[Eticket]

Who's broken one? And from which crank supplier do you know? Pm me if you would rather


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[turbobitt]

Who's broken one? And from which crank supplier do you know? Pm me if you would rather


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I don't have the info handy other than seeing the misc. pictures Bison has showed me over time. Since I never had one of these cranks in my car I never really cared to dig into that. PM Bison since maybe he has more specific information. FWIW I don't generally have a beef against these cranks I just choose not to gamble with my block. If Tom Molnar made cranks I would probably have taken the chance knowing Tom's quality control. I have his crank and rods in My 572 Hemi.
AG.

 

[bison]

I don't have the info handy other than seeing the misc. pictures Bison has showed me over time. Since I never had one of these cranks in my car I never really cared to dig into that. PM Bison since maybe he has more specific information. FWIW I don't generally have a beef against these cranks I just choose not to gamble with my block. If Tom Molnar made cranks I would probably have taken the chance knowing Tom's quality control. I have his crank and rods in My 572 Hemi.
AG.

Yes they've been broken. Yes the machining issues with them need to be addressed before assembly like just about any replacement crank including a billet crank though the chances of seeing a big flaw in a specified crank will be much less. Tapered journals, incorrect flywheel bolt locations, heavy radius on the flexplate pilot, etc are very common in Chinese cranks. I agree with Al. I won't be using a $600 Chinese crank in a $15000 engine. Not that it wouldn't work I just wouldn't do it seeing what I've seen and knowing I can specify counter weighting, stroke, journal specs etc on a custom billet crank. I've successfully ran many of the Chinese cranks in stock blocks after the issue(s) were addressed. Also I'm very partial to product of USA origin. I like to use product of this country whenever possible. Cost should not be a consideration at this level. If it is you are probably in the wrong hobby.


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[Eticket]

would like to know who's broken one so I can understand the circumstances around that. If it's private than so be it. Thanks


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[Kip]

I have Chinese in My Car. Looking for 8.50's Next Year. I Guess I Should open my Fortune Cookie before I turn it up....

How fast have you been to date on the Chinese crank?

 

[qikazel1]

I bought a stage 2 car last year. I was tired of running 28 plus boost on stock stuff to go mid 10'z and breaking stuff all the time. Now I have a car that ran 9.87 at 136mph on 18lbs of boost on pump gas. Its faster that I expected and I'm not even leaning on it.

 

[robzombie]

I bought a stage 2 car last year. I was tired of running 28 plus boost on stock stuff to go mid 10'z and breaking stuff all the time. Now I have a car that ran 9.87 at 136mph on 18lbs of boost on pump gas. Its faster that I expected and I'm not even leaning on it.

What differences in hard parts were there over a stock 109 block??

I run mid to low tens on stock parts and only have forged pistons and steel main caps.

Three years and I haven't broken anything in the motor.

What is your setup now versus before? Steel crank and rods versus stock 109?

I'm sure that most of it is different including the turbo and T/C.

 

[qikazel1]

Everything is forged.BMS crank, Carrillo rods. The power that my stage 2 heads afford over stock design is huge. The block itself is a 4 bolt mains, thicker and I believe is a different metallurgy. My stock stuff was steel crank, stock rods and billet mains. I ran 93 and alchy. I am sure my issue was in tuning. I have a friend that believes in stock stuff because you can break it 4 times for the same cost of breaking stage 2 stuff once. And 109 parts are readily available versus stage stuff being difficult to find. But I believe I can make 600 rwhp with my set up at low boost and live longer than a 109 set up making 600 hp at much higher boost levels on race gas or pump gas/alchy.

 

[robzombie]

Are you running a different turbo and converter and are you still running the stock ECM??

I know the heads make a difference, but even stock irons ported right will run in the eights.

I'm just trying to see what the major changes were that took you from mid tens at 26/28 lbs. versus high nines at 18 lbs.

That would be more telling of the state of your stock heads and the rest of your combo.

 

[qikazel1]

Twin 58 millimeter Turbonetics turbo now vs a precision 6776 on the 109 motor . Fast xfi now vs. Max effort thumbwheel chip on a stock ecm. Unknown non lock up converter in a turbo 400 transmission now versus a 9-inch art Carr non lock up converter in a 200 are four on the 109 car

 

[qikazel1]

I made 508 rear wheel horsepower with the 109 car, 67 millimeter turbo, 28 pounds of boost. I made 597 horsepower through the twin 58 millimeter turbos, Ford 9 inch rear, turbo 400 transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, at 15 pounds of boost.

 

[robzombie]

Definitely an apples to orange comparison with that setup.

You definitely had a lot left on the table with the old setup.

With 828 pounds of boost you should've been in funny car territory HP wise. Just kidding I know it's a typo.

I'm glad you like the new setup and it sure has less stress on it and should last a long time without issues at the level you run it at.

 

[qikazel1]

Hahaha. Good old Google Voice. I was trying to respond in the car which I shouldn't be doing probably. But at least I was trying to be hands-free