This 2004R Sound Good To Go?

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Procharged GTA

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
24
Hi, we have been building a 2004R for awhile,and we are about to get it done,here is everything we have done to it:

10 vane pump,all mods done by Ck's manual
Hardened pump rings,high rev pump slide spring
.500"/.296" boost valves
Transgo Reprogramming kit,but using CK's new seperator plate for Dual Feeding
Upgraded to 3 clutches Alto Red Eagle clutches and Kolenes in O.D.
CK's Billet input shaft with solid teflon rings
Dual Fed Direct Drum with 6 Alto Red Eagles and Kolenes,and .060" bleed hole drilled,and all 16 spings installed
Alto Red Eagle Wide Band,and Billet Band Anchor
Superior Billet Servo(with cushion spring retained)
Ck's Billet Forward Drum with Alto Red Eagle clutches and Kolenes,and solid teflon rings
Rear Planet lube hole drilled to .125"
Drilled .060" bleed hole Low/Reverse clutch housing,and used 2 spring washers on top of each other,Alto Red Eagle clutches with Kolenes
Governer has a TCI lightweight spring in it
1/2 Accumulator blocked with 1/4" checkball,left out piston and spring assembly,(recommened by Ck's manual for 400hp or more engines)
3/4 Accumulator,we used a spacer that stiffens the spring,it is not deleted
All valve body mods was done using the Transgo kit,and also removed the 2-1 kickdown cup plug from the valve body,as stated in Ck's manual

Rear End Play- .006"
Center Section End Play-.009"
Front End Play- have not set it yet,but will be .006"-.010"

Does everything sound about right? This is a 100% Street driven car. 600-650 HP


Thanks,Brian
 
What converter are you going to run? I dont like the vb spring mods the transgo kit recs. I only change line bias spring, accumulator spring, and lock out the 3-2 control valve with a piece of drill rod in the vb. You need a replacement accumulator valve spring for the vb for sure. Call CK. I would use a much stiffer spring in the 3-4 accumulator. I wouldnt change governor springs either.
 
Thanks bison,he was running a 12" L/U PATC Raptor converter with ballon plates 2300 stall. But this time around he is thinking about running a 10" Continental Non L/U converter,they recommened their "Jim Hand Special",well known to alot of us pontiac guys,they said probably 3000-3200 stall,but at cruise they are efficient enough that they don't have the excessive slippage as other converters,and will only loose 200 RPM compared to the L/U converter at cruise speed. He is thinking about buying the new converter,it all depends on the money situation. It shows in my Transgo papers,that I had to replace the accumulator spring with the one provided in the kit. This is the Trango kit 2004r-HD2 reprogramming kit. What's the negative effects of he lighter governor spring? Thanks
 
Thanks bison,he was running a 12" L/U PATC Raptor converter with ballon plates 2300 stall. But this time around he is thinking about running a 10" Continental Non L/U converter,they recommened their "Jim Hand Special",well known to alot of us pontiac guys,they said probably 3000-3200 stall,but at cruise they are efficient enough that they don't have the excessive slippage as other converters,and will only loose 200 RPM compared to the L/U converter at cruise speed. He is thinking about buying the new converter,it all depends on the money situation. It shows in my Transgo papers,that I had to replace the accumulator spring with the one provided in the kit. This is the Trango kit 2004r-HD2 reprogramming kit. What's the negative effects of he lighter governor spring? Thanks
Not the accumulator spring. The accumulator valve spring in the vb. Their may not be a negative effect on the governor spring but you dont have a baseline yet and dont want to add a variable that could cause problems with low shaft speed shift timing. Id go non lock myself. The PTC i have now cruises at around 5% slip on the highway and slips under 5% up top. It may be as low as 3% but i dont have a driveshaft speed sensor in yet.
 
Superior Servo

My curiosity, why did you retain the spring in Superior Servo?? I just installed one and the instructions said to leave it out ......
 
My curiosity, why did you retain the spring in Superior Servo?? I just installed one and the instructions said to leave it out ......

Without the spring you get a "clunk" on the 3-2 down shift. Leave the spring in. JMHO :)
 
My curiosity, why did you retain the spring in Superior Servo?? I just installed one and the instructions said to leave it out ......

You should definitely leave it in if you use a stock band anchor.
 
Alright, will drop her down a little and put it back in .... we are talking about the LARGER spring (of the two) on servo??

Also, you guys know alot about these trannies, and I am just learning, can you tell me this condition is "normal":

Just rebuilt, NO fluid in yet, re-installed 200-r4, that in any "gear" position, I can rotate rear tires forward (except P of course, where the Parking pawl is engaged). And it seems to be either really hard or I cannot rotate them in reverse direction .....
 
Which Spring ???

I had my orig servo spring (for 692 servo out of 4BQ) AND the TransGO reprogramming kit, came with a longer, thicker spring ..... + 2 gold washers (one on either side of piston, that I did put in) ....

WHICH ONE SHOULD I PUT IN, Transgo Long/Thick, with their washers or STOCK :confused: ???
 
I can't remember for sure which spring we used,I would have to check with dad,but I do know that we did not use the two gold washers that came in the transgo reprogramming kit. The reason we did not use them,is because it shows to place one of the washers between the servo pin and piston,this will effectivly make the servo pin longer,and we had to grind the servo pin down some to get the proper band clearance without using them,so they would have only made it worse.
 
Just wanted to let you know,that he is going to go ahead and get rid of the 12" lock-up PATC 2300 stall converter,and he is going to order the 10" non-lock up Continental conveter tommorrow it will be 2800-3000 stall,this should get it in it's boost range faster. We have had alot of people recommend that we switch to the 10" non- lock up,said it would gain quite a bit over the 12" lockup he is currently running,so he is going to go ahead and do it. Another thing we are concerned about,is how hard it is going to shift with the mods we have done to the transmission,such as blocking the 1/2 accumulator with a checkball. He wants it to have good Solid/Firm shifts,but not so hard it shakes the dash out of the car,this is a 100% street car(not driven everyday). How do you guys think it will shift? I know it won't be quite so harsh,since he is going to the higher stall converter.

Here is some info about the car:

1986 Trans Am
383 sbc/ AFR 195 heads
Victor Jr. intake/CSU 750 blowthrough carburetor, Extreme Velocity bonnet
Intercooled D1SC Procharger (10-12 lbs.boost)
Comp Cams NX274 nitrous grind hydraulic flat tappet
274/288 advertised duration, 230/244 duration at .050"
.488"/.501" lift, 113* lobe seperation
9.3-1 compression
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, Aeromotive 13204 egulator -10 feed line/-8 return line

(See first post above for transmission specs)

Moser Ford 9" rearend with 3.70 gears,Moser 31 spline axles,Detroit Tru-Trac

This combo should make 600+ horsepower.

Anybody have any idea how hard it will shift? Thanks
 
Well, we got the tranny put in,and it works excellent!! The shifts are nice and solid,but not real harsh. It shifts as soon as you move the shifter,no delayed shifts!! The Continental 10" non-L/U converter works amazing!! It feels just like a stock converter taking off,but when you stomp it wide open from a dead stop,it flashes to around 3000 RPM,works just like Kris at Continental told me it would,very high quality converter,kinda pricey,at $650.00 plus shipping,but worth every dime,since it don't loose any streetability,and Kris said it would handle 850 hp easy,even in overdrive,it is coupled very well at cruise,you can't tell any difference over the L/U converter that was in it.
 
Well, we got the tranny put in,and it works excellent!! The shifts are nice and solid,but not real harsh. It shifts as soon as you move the shifter,no delayed shifts!! The Continental 10" non-L/U converter works amazing!! It feels just like a stock converter taking off,but when you stomp it wide open from a dead stop,it flashes to around 3000 RPM,works just like Kris at Continental told me it would,very high quality converter,kinda pricey,at $650.00 plus shipping,but worth every dime,since it don't loose any streetability,and Kris said it would handle 850 hp easy,even in overdrive,it is coupled very well at cruise,you can't tell any difference over the L/U converter that was in it.

Let us know the slip % at WOT. Sounds like you have a combination you are happy with.
 
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