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Timing Chain

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BigTady

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
111
So I have some plans to pull the timing cover tomorrow to check everything out and rebuild the oil pump. Should have been today but got caught up in mounting my gas tank and working on transmission pan\gasket\filter.

When i first pulled the seats out a few weeks back my son found a box under the seat. I thought nothing of it until today as I'm tinkering and see it's a timing chain set. Called my friend I bought the car from and he said he never swapped the timing chain out ever and has no idea. I googled the part number and there was one on ebay listed and it fits (77-89) buick 3.8L.

Since I already had plans to pull the cover I'll have my fingers crossed tomorrow there is a nice looking timing set under there. Judging by the damage on this what else should I be looking for to see if there is more damage to the motor?

Thanks in advance...

 

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Remove the fuel pump block off plate and look in at the timing chain. If you can borrow or find a borescope, you can inspect without pulling the cover.
 
When I replaced the timing chain, I also replaced the following with NAPA parts which also comes with the front timing cover seal. I changed the oil pickup since it had some material imbedded into the screen. Just make sure when you replace the oil pickup you apply some red loctite for the bolts.


New tensioner – NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675

Updated cam button NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_0191974674

Front cover gasket set – NAPA: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=tcs45930&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&N=599001+101987+50008+2
 
Alright, got the timing cover off tonight (finally). Here is what i found. Judging by the gunk i see in the cover i'm a bit surprised to she such a clean timing chain. Thoughts are it's new as suspected (especially since i found an old one under the seat). Another sign is the blue goop someone used to seal the cover.

I've got the oil pan bolts out but looks like i need to drop the exhaust too so I've sprayed them down with Kriol and will give it a shot tomorrow. Some of the bolts on the pass side look a bit hard to get to, any tips and tricks to getting these out easily?

IMG_20130409_214729.jpg
IMG_20130409_214846.jpg
 
I would definitely replace that chain also, that cam gear has nylon teeth just like the OE chain. That is going to be a problem down the road for sure. While its apart do yourself a favor and replace it with a set which has an all steel cam gear.
 
I was thinking about that, I would hate to take it all apart again.

What are common recommended setups folks are using on these motors?

Tad
87 GN
Sent from HTC Sensation
 
That's odd. The timing set you have is pretty new looking but there's no upgraded roller cam button. The previous owner did pretty good putting the expensive chain in there but I was surprised to see a black gasket and no roller button. With the crusty oil pump shaft in there is there any chance the previous owner had to change out a timing set to get the car sold and didn't take care of all the 'as long as I'm here's' while he was there?

I have a feeling the pickup is going to have a bunch of blue worms in it.
 
Thanks for all the extra info.

I work with the previous owner and have talked to him at length about it. He does not recall getting the timing chain replaced at all, but all signs lead to it was. It's been 17-18 years since he drove it so he's probably forgotten a thing or 2 about it. I got the car at a great price knowing it did not run and that i would need to fix it for rebuild. I guess i'll find quite a few more gremlins before it's over. Buying all these parts is fine to get it started and see where i'm at, if i rebuild later i'll pull these parts and save them. It's all an experience and learning these cars anyways. Right now i'm just trying to soak all the knowledge in you guys are bestowing upon me and be patient and put it back together correctly.

So based on feedback here and reading the other posts about timing chains I've come away with this:

1). Product ID: TA_1704 - Oil pump shim kit
2). Product ID: TA_1522B - Timing chain kit
3). Waterpump - Already have
4). Oil pan gasket (cork)
5). Rear main seal (neoprene)
6). New cam button - Napa
7). New tensioner - Napa
8). Timing cover gasket set - Already have
9). Product ID: TA_1530A - Timing cover (maybe depending on funds)
 
It amazes me the people that hate on the stock timing set. They have a track record of 'only' lasting 150,000 miles or 20 years. Whichever comes first.

Plus they don't tear up the timing cover when they fail or leave an afro on a magnetic drain plug every oil change.
 
It amazes me the people that hate on the stock timing set. They have a track record of 'only' lasting 150,000 miles or 20 years. Whichever comes first.

Plus they don't tear up the timing cover when they fail or leave an afro on a magnetic drain plug every oil change.
X2 :)
 
Ok so are gents voting to keep the stock chain or is it better for me to upgrade? I could always roll with this one and upgrade when i'm ready to rebuild.
 
If there's no cracks on the plastic gear coating I'd leave it right where it is. Get the new rollerized cam button though. (and clean the hell out of that timing cover and inspect the inner pump workings while you have it off.
 
I really want to save the money right now but also am not interested in pulling all this part again. Really I have no clue if this thing will run well, need to get into that first so maybe rebuild on the oil pump and put it all back together and start it. I can always plan down the road for an upgraded timing set.

I'll have to think on this for a day and decide. It's only manual labor right? :-)

Tad
87 GN
Sent from HTC Sensation
 
You can always run a leak down test the way the engine sits right now and verify you have good ring and valve seal.
 
Did he tell you what the symptoms were that caused him to put it away and not drive it for that long? You might want to do some more poking around. Make sure things like compression is there and the valve train is working. Maybe even look at the cam. It would suck to button it all up just to find you got a wiped cam lobe or blown head gasket.
 
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