Torque strap?
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Here is a company that makes the Tq. strap for the 84/85 cars:
http://www.users.voicenet.com/~mrrieg/stealth.html
I thought about getting one for my car..but I went with the driverside poly motor mount from HRpartsNstuff instead...The motor dosen't move much, and you dont have to worry about a Torque strap pulling or stressing the motor!
http://www.users.voicenet.com/~mrrieg/stealth.html
I thought about getting one for my car..but I went with the driverside poly motor mount from HRpartsNstuff instead...The motor dosen't move much, and you dont have to worry about a Torque strap pulling or stressing the motor!
Lee Thompson
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85 eng. tie down
This is how I made a KILLER tie down for my sons car. His is an 86 but will fit any year.
On the back of the driver side head there are some tapped holes. I believe they are 10 mm. not sure, but definately metric.
I used 2 half in. dia. rods with a flat made on one end. Actually they were old 85 alt. to intake support rods.
Bolted one to the back of the head (very hard to get to). Remove the nut on the a-arm bolt . Slip the other rod over the bolt, let the rods over lap, cut the rods so they will butt up, spot weld, and then remove and finish welding.
I then used a jam nut to bolt the a-arm bolt, installed the new rod and put the original nut on the bolt to hold the tie down rod on.
It works great, no vibbs in the car and the eng. is rock solid.
I know lots of people are using the new motor mounts, without any problems. But the idea of pulling on the side of the block scares me.
The way I made this is probably not for everyone, but it does work well.
This is how I made a KILLER tie down for my sons car. His is an 86 but will fit any year.
On the back of the driver side head there are some tapped holes. I believe they are 10 mm. not sure, but definately metric.
I used 2 half in. dia. rods with a flat made on one end. Actually they were old 85 alt. to intake support rods.
Bolted one to the back of the head (very hard to get to). Remove the nut on the a-arm bolt . Slip the other rod over the bolt, let the rods over lap, cut the rods so they will butt up, spot weld, and then remove and finish welding.
I then used a jam nut to bolt the a-arm bolt, installed the new rod and put the original nut on the bolt to hold the tie down rod on.
It works great, no vibbs in the car and the eng. is rock solid.
I know lots of people are using the new motor mounts, without any problems. But the idea of pulling on the side of the block scares me.
The way I made this is probably not for everyone, but it does work well.
My dad used the poly motor mounts on both sides on his stage II GN. Even though the idle is just a little rough from the cam the motor doesn't move around at all at idle. I can't tell a difference in vibration inside the car either. I plan on using a poly mount on the driver's side on my car. I think these things are making the old tie down straps obsolete. The main reason I'm going with one is to keep my DP from hitting on the floor board when I go WOT. You can get away with less clearance under hood if nothing moves around.
turbowrenchhead
Drive like you stole it!
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And where do you get these poly motor mounts? And how much are they?
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- May 24, 2001
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You get the motor mounts from Paul at HRPARTSNSTUFF!
The mounts are $80 a peice...or $150 for both!...
Check out his site:
http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/
I'm Cheap
I used something close to Lee's setup but, I used a turn buckle( Hardware store biggest and longest he had that would fit ). I mounted one end to the back of the head ( threaded holes are there as Lee stated ) and bent the other end to set on top of the frame which lined up with a hole that was already there. I used a long bolt and a locking nut. I get very little movement and the knock sensor doesn't go nuts like it use to.
I used something close to Lee's setup but, I used a turn buckle( Hardware store biggest and longest he had that would fit ). I mounted one end to the back of the head ( threaded holes are there as Lee stated ) and bent the other end to set on top of the frame which lined up with a hole that was already there. I used a long bolt and a locking nut. I get very little movement and the knock sensor doesn't go nuts like it use to.
G
GNeric
Guest
torque strap
I went and checked out the website for the stealth torque strap. I noticed they said the new battery cable is $250 dollars.??? Where on earth did they get this number from? I just bought a GM battery cable for my 85 from the dealer and it cost me $32.64. This is my cost, list is somewhere around $46. I also never knew that engine torque caused the exhaust manifolds to crack...seeing as they are bolted to the engine and move with the engine. I always thought they cracked from repeated heating and cooling cycles and the fact that there is no support between the numbers 3&5 tubes to keep them from expanding at different rates. I'll go with the HRparts... poly mounts and not worry about my "gold" battery cable.
I went and checked out the website for the stealth torque strap. I noticed they said the new battery cable is $250 dollars.??? Where on earth did they get this number from? I just bought a GM battery cable for my 85 from the dealer and it cost me $32.64. This is my cost, list is somewhere around $46. I also never knew that engine torque caused the exhaust manifolds to crack...seeing as they are bolted to the engine and move with the engine. I always thought they cracked from repeated heating and cooling cycles and the fact that there is no support between the numbers 3&5 tubes to keep them from expanding at different rates. I'll go with the HRparts... poly mounts and not worry about my "gold" battery cable.
Figured Id put in my 2cents since Ive now used a couple of the methods mentioned here.
At first I was going to make something from scratch, but then I came across the Stealth anchor so I thought I would give it a try. I know they were made for our cars but this one I had obviously could not take the tourque. It broke at one end, so I welded it back together, just so it could brake at the other end! I was through with it.
Again I was about to put something together when I found out about HRPartsNStuff. So I now have the driver's side poly mount. So far so good. I feel safer with this method than with the Stealth anchor. (Although I hate to hear Lee's thought on the poly mount, you know everone with a non-intercooled car that hears about his wants to be like him!).
At first I was going to make something from scratch, but then I came across the Stealth anchor so I thought I would give it a try. I know they were made for our cars but this one I had obviously could not take the tourque. It broke at one end, so I welded it back together, just so it could brake at the other end! I was through with it.
Again I was about to put something together when I found out about HRPartsNStuff. So I now have the driver's side poly mount. So far so good. I feel safer with this method than with the Stealth anchor. (Although I hate to hear Lee's thought on the poly mount, you know everone with a non-intercooled car that hears about his wants to be like him!).
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