Okay , so car will see no knock from a dig. Runs clean all the way through third. But when she kicks down , I see anywhere from 4/7 degrees of knock. Is this too much for transitional knock? Replaced trans mount, which was not supporting shit. I have a HR driver mount ready to go in. Hoping this will cure my problem. I feel if it was knock it would knock for sure on a wot pull from a dig right? it only does it when she kicks down like previously stated.
Tracking my knock source.
- Thread starter Dreamn4GN
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i could be a few things,but I would start be checking the downpipe.if the mounts are bad you can see the engine rock from outside the car when you throttle it.also try manually shifting the car and see if it knocks through the lower gears,and make sure you have no wheelspin.the car should see 0 knock.
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Check the exhaust as stated it causes a lot of knock readings if its moving around.
I did notice the down pipe was hitting my upper control arm what can I do to fix that? I'll be getting a upgraded down pipe here shortly. and yes the motor does rock back and forth. Hopefully get the mount in this week see if it helps which it should. Car sees no knock from stop in drive or manually shifting. Only when I'm cruising and she kicks down a gear or two.
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Upper a arm bushing cooked?
Knok sensor properly torqued? 14#/ft
Knok sensor properly torqued? 14#/ft
Looking like the bushing is trash. It's all stock with 125k on it. Sensor is newer and properly torqued. I think it's the exhaust and downpipe. We'll find out here shortly.
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Bushing trashed allows the inner side of the a arm to move in toward the pipe..This is a "definite maybe" as to the problem.
I mean it's a Buick , does the work ever end? Going to try and get on my buddy's lift to do the motor mount and hopefully get a better looks at the a arm and see what I can do about that. Are the bushings easily replaceable? I doubt it but worth a shot
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The a arms need to come off... As in all 4, and a bushing replacement done.
Once off, they can be pressed out, and new parts pressed back in.
It's necessary to have the correct tools, to prevent crushing the arms....
While they are off, it's a good time for ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm bushings...
The a arms need to come off... As in all 4, and a bushing replacement done.
Once off, they can be pressed out, and new parts pressed back in.
It's necessary to have the correct tools, to prevent crushing the arms....
While they are off, it's a good time for ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm bushings...
And tack weld the bolts holding the arms to the frame or your alignment guy will hate you.
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the rear upper which gets destroyed by the downpipe heat can be changed by just removing the upper arm when the downpipe is off
get a gm control arm bushing tool kit from parts store .. its a big c-clamp with some adapters
it can even be done in car with an air chisel and hammer and use the nut to draw the new bushing back in but i prefer to use the correct tool
jack up from frame , remove tire, loosen upper ball joint nut to end of threads , put jack stand just under lower control arm , whack the upper spindle with a BFH to break loose the ball joint , lower jack at frame a little to take tensoin off the upper control arm , remove the ball joint nut , remove both nuts at frame and note shims , remove arm (you may need to knock the bolts in the frame back depending on header clearance but usually theres enough room
with the arm off zip off the nut on end of shaft , press out the old bushing(s) , press in the new , put the arm back with shims as you found them ..call it a day
unless you like trouble dont mess with the lower unless you plan to do new springs
get a gm control arm bushing tool kit from parts store .. its a big c-clamp with some adapters
it can even be done in car with an air chisel and hammer and use the nut to draw the new bushing back in but i prefer to use the correct tool
jack up from frame , remove tire, loosen upper ball joint nut to end of threads , put jack stand just under lower control arm , whack the upper spindle with a BFH to break loose the ball joint , lower jack at frame a little to take tensoin off the upper control arm , remove the ball joint nut , remove both nuts at frame and note shims , remove arm (you may need to knock the bolts in the frame back depending on header clearance but usually theres enough room
with the arm off zip off the nut on end of shaft , press out the old bushing(s) , press in the new , put the arm back with shims as you found them ..call it a day
unless you like trouble dont mess with the lower unless you plan to do new springs
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I don't like trouble. Thanks Pauly . Appreciate it. Add it to the list
Never seems that way but don't quit on it
Don't plan on it. The hours of frustration are all worth it in just a few seconds of acceleration. Just wanted to take her to the track this week. But I want to get this figured out before I make a full 1320 pass with her.
Is there any better way to get to the passenger side header/cross over pipe section? I had the car on ramps and was wondering if that was affecting the area I need to get to the bolts. I can't seem for the life of me to get on them. Wondering if the car on jack stands would give me better clearance.
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I use a univ socket, and a looong extension. Like 24"
