TTA #1078 Scanmaster installed - pictures

[Jan Larsson]

Found sometime today to get my scanmaster installed, still have to connect the wires ... hopefully it all works

Decided to do a permanent install, drilled 2 small holes in the top cover of the scanmaster (took it apart) also replaced the wire with a black thinner one. Drilled 2 holes in my gauge cover plastic thing as well as cut a small hole for the wire. You can see everything in the pictures (link below, click on thumbnails for larger images), turned out great with all my gauges and the scanmaster So just have to wire it all in tomorrow and I'm ready for the track

http://www.tta1078.com/scanmaster/

 

[transampacecar]

How much of a pain was it to get the bezel out ? I remember reading somewhere that there is a hidden screw or screws on the right side of the bezel near the passenger side ? Is that true ? Other than the screws that are obvious near on the drivers side, what should I look for to the bezel out, would like to do the same thing as you
thanks

 

[Jan Larsson]

It's not a problem getting the bezel out. Yes there is 1 hidden screw on the passanger side, you will have to remove the plastic panel with the Performance Suspension badge (3 screws total from underneath).

Also you need to remove the bit with the fog light switches on the left side of the steering wheel (2 screws from underneath).

Then just remove the visible screws under the dash pad, take a look as some of the screws just holds the dash pad and not the bezel (it's every second one or so). And then there's 2 (maybe 3) screws from underneath on the right side of the steering wheel. Once you pull the bezel out a bit make sure to disconnect the 2 connectors for the hatch pop switch and the rear defroster switch.

Tilt the steering wheel all the way down and then work the bezel out carefully.

 

[ALXTTA 1]

It's not a problem getting the bezel out. Yes there is 1 hidden screw on the passanger side, you will have to remove the plastic panel with the Performance Suspension badge (3 screws total from underneath)..

Hi Jan,

I'm trying to get the bezel off to fix or replace my headlight switch. I feel stupid but is there a trick to getting the 'Performance Suspension' panel off? I got the screws from underneath but it still feels "clipped" to the piece above it. I'm afraid to yank on it too hard and break it off (you know, that bulletproof 80's GM plastic and all.. )

Thanks!

 

[Jan Larsson]

If you got the 3 screws off from underneath you can carefully lift it out (bottom part) and then pull it down. There's like small plastic tabs at the top of that plastic piece that fits into slots of the dash itself. If you carefully lift it out and pull down slightly you can see where they are. As long as you dont bend the whole piece you should be fine ... if you break it I got 1 or 2 spare sitting around

 

[phillyturbosix]

Looks good Jan! If the velcro that I used didn't work that was my next plan of attack! I just swapped out the gray wire that comes with the ScanMaster with some real thin black wire. Hide it pretty well!

 

[Jan Larsson]

Got everything hooked up (both Scanmaster and my other 2 gauges) and it all works fine. Did any of you install a switch to turn the Scanmaster off as i'ts not really needed for daily driving .... if so did you just put a switch on the +12V wire?

 

[Quiky One]

I didnt put a switch on the scanmaster but I did the knock gauge.

 

[phillyturbosix]

I installed my Scanmaster just for daily driving! imo: every turbo buick should have a scanmaster running whenever the car is on. Best tool out there.

 

[Grumpy]

ummmm..why in the world would you not have that on ????

 

[Jan Larsson]

thought about a switch just not to play with it while cruising, which is tempting of course

a switch for the knock gauge is not a bad idea actually as mine is flashing like a xmas tree have to find out what is causing this ....

 

[Quiky One]

I have a switch on mine because at night it drives me crazy. Have the scanmaster if I need to watch knock. Also my gauge doesnt reset when I start it up so I have to reset it myself. So I put a on/off switch on mine. It's on most of the time.

 

[Jan Larsson]

Going shopping tomorrow for a small switch to turn the knock gauge off, just got back from a spin around town (evening) and driving at night with the knock gauge flashing all the time is well annoying that's for sure ...

Any ideas what couses knock, I get all the way to red (Caspers Knock Gauge) at 1/4 and 1/3 throttle all the time ....

 

[Quiky One]

Any knock on your scanmaster?

 

[Jan Larsson]

Will look tomorrow, still have to figure out how the scanmaster works Got some bed time reading to do later unless the misses got something else in mind :biggrin:

 

[Quiky One]

Haha....The knock is the first reading on the SM when you turn the car on. That and o2's.

Jason

 

[Jan Larsson]

Great, noticed the 02's was not sure about the other one ... too easy

I'll take it for a spin tomorrow and watch that one as well ... looks like another sunny day but a bit cold again (high 30's) so the turbo likes it

 

[Quiky One]

lol...really is a simple layout.

 

[phillyturbosix]

Jan I went thru 3 of those Casper knock gauges that were bad. Most likely the gauge is bad send it back to them. All the bad ones I had went all the way up as well. Also what I did was bought some wintow tint and put a coating over the glass on the Caspers gauge. Took it down a good bit also put a small autometer sticker covering half of the "on" led on the gauge. I don't know it's there till it detects knock.

 

[Jan Larsson]

I got a ART audible knock gauge as well, been in the car since I bought it, and it been giving me a lot of "pings" for a while so there is something going on. Will tkae the car for a spin in a while and watch the Scanmaster and see what it says.