Paul, all i have to say is nice job!!!!!!!!!! I saw them first hand a few weeks ago, when i first saw the price i thought u were nuts, but after seeing the meat on these things, and how good of a job they do, wowowow i changed my mind! thumbsup!
TTA Poly Motor Mount UPDATE:
- Thread starter HRpartsNstuff
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HRpartsNstuff
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Thanks! Anyone who has seen our "stuff" 
knows we don't make any wimpy junk here 
knows we don't make any wimpy junk here Jan Larsson
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So what is the price fly89gta saw???
HRpartsNstuff
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TTA Motor mount UPDATE:
As of 10-13-02, here is where we are at...
I have been working feverishly for the last couple weeks trying to get these ready for all of you asap. We are working with several prototypes right now, making sure we get the best possible setup. We are working with a car that has an aftermarket torque arm installed, with a heim joint on the forward end of it. This sends a lot of vibration into the car by itself, and with our mounts installed, it gets a bit much at certain rpm's. If you guys (and gals) had to wager a guess, what percentage of cars have these "solid" type torque arms? If it's 5% of the cars, it is obviously not as big of an issue as if 50% of the cars have them. I will setup a poll if you would like to vote your setup (greatly appreciated).
We have the drivers side pretty much figured out & finalized, assuming the vibration is at a tolerable limit, which it seems to be. I will be testing on another car to get more feedback this week. I may do a short run of the drivers side only right now to get people back on the road. Installation was not quite as bad as I thought, and gets easier by the 5th or 6th time They fit up beautifully, and really tighten things up nicely. We will have detailed instructions and tips with pictures to make it much easier for you to do. I am shooting for having these available the week of the OCT 21st.
As for the pass side, this gets a bit more involved. It is a bit different than the drivers side. At first, it looked like we could just make one mount that would fit both sides. No such luck. I could just make most of it the same and change the side plates (easiest way), but that might not be the best way. I am looking at making the pass side differently so that I can get more poly in there to lessen the vibrations felt in the car. This might include a different frame pad and different side plates. I am also getting custom bushings made right now that are softer than the original TR mounts. They will still handle all the power you want to put to them, just lessen any possible vibrations. I have to also make a special wrench to include with the mounts to be able to remove & install the frame pads. We got the drivers side with an extension & U-joint, once we figured out where to go at it. The pass side is mounted in a slightly different spot, and couldn't be done the same way. Best way to do it seems to be to make the wrench, just one more thing to do...
As for the prices for these, I have to do a little re-figuring now that it looks like the pass side will be different. I was hoping to keep parts the same so I could make a bigger qty of parts & keep the costs down. Now it is going to be several different parts, lower qty's, more design time, extra fixtures, extra tool, etc... Boy, just when I think I am getting a grip on things I did come across new aftermarket motor mounts for an import car that was less involved than the TTA mounts, and they were $459 for 3 pcs! The TTA's will actually be 4 pcs, with a special tool included, and a much lower qty being made. Our price for the whole kit (both sides, mounts & pads & wrench) will be less than that for sure. I should have a firm price on at least the drivers side by the end of the week so I can start taking orders. It will probably turn out to be like I made $0.50/hr if I am lucky after all the time I have in this project, but oh well. Got to keep the sport alive and the cars on the road!
As of 10-13-02, here is where we are at...
I have been working feverishly for the last couple weeks trying to get these ready for all of you asap. We are working with several prototypes right now, making sure we get the best possible setup. We are working with a car that has an aftermarket torque arm installed, with a heim joint on the forward end of it. This sends a lot of vibration into the car by itself, and with our mounts installed, it gets a bit much at certain rpm's. If you guys (and gals) had to wager a guess, what percentage of cars have these "solid" type torque arms? If it's 5% of the cars, it is obviously not as big of an issue as if 50% of the cars have them. I will setup a poll if you would like to vote your setup (greatly appreciated).
We have the drivers side pretty much figured out & finalized, assuming the vibration is at a tolerable limit, which it seems to be. I will be testing on another car to get more feedback this week. I may do a short run of the drivers side only right now to get people back on the road. Installation was not quite as bad as I thought, and gets easier by the 5th or 6th time
They fit up beautifully, and really tighten things up nicely. We will have detailed instructions and tips with pictures to make it much easier for you to do. I am shooting for having these available the week of the OCT 21st.As for the pass side, this gets a bit more involved. It is a bit different than the drivers side. At first, it looked like we could just make one mount that would fit both sides. No such luck. I could just make most of it the same and change the side plates (easiest way), but that might not be the best way. I am looking at making the pass side differently so that I can get more poly in there to lessen the vibrations felt in the car. This might include a different frame pad and different side plates. I am also getting custom bushings made right now that are softer than the original TR mounts. They will still handle all the power you want to put to them, just lessen any possible vibrations. I have to also make a special wrench to include with the mounts to be able to remove & install the frame pads. We got the drivers side with an extension & U-joint, once we figured out where to go at it. The pass side is mounted in a slightly different spot, and couldn't be done the same way. Best way to do it seems to be to make the wrench, just one more thing to do...
As for the prices for these, I have to do a little re-figuring now that it looks like the pass side will be different. I was hoping to keep parts the same so I could make a bigger qty of parts & keep the costs down. Now it is going to be several different parts, lower qty's, more design time, extra fixtures, extra tool, etc... Boy, just when I think I am getting a grip on things
I did come across new aftermarket motor mounts for an import car that was less involved than the TTA mounts, and they were $459 for 3 pcs! The TTA's will actually be 4 pcs, with a special tool included, and a much lower qty being made. Our price for the whole kit (both sides, mounts & pads & wrench) will be less than that for sure. I should have a firm price on at least the drivers side by the end of the week so I can start taking orders. It will probably turn out to be like I made $0.50/hr if I am lucky after all the time I have in this project, but oh well. Got to keep the sport alive and the cars on the road! 
. Oh well, it's pretty smooth at 100
. Keep us updated on the mounts, and thanks!HRpartsNstuff
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That's what we are seeing. I thought I could setup that poll so people could vote which arm they have, but don't see how. I guess if you have one of these arms you are more intersted in performance rather than comfort
roc87 - which torque arm do you have?Just wondering,I have the Jegster torque arm and have no vibrations or road noise associated with it with the exception of a little when I hit road joints.
Paul - I just wanna say what a great product you offer.I put my GTA together with GN chassis mounts and your poly GN motor mounts and what a difference.They are holding up exceptionally well
Steve
Paul - I just wanna say what a great product you offer.I put my GTA together with GN chassis mounts and your poly GN motor mounts and what a difference.They are holding up exceptionally well
Steve
HRpartsNstuff
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This car has a Spohn. The end that attaches to the trans crossmember has a heim joint, which is basically solid. Personally, I wouldn't have the thing. It is nice quality, but too much of a "race" feel to it. Guess I will have to make one of them in the future He is trying to get a poly end for it from Spohn, or he might put the stocker back on for now. It did shake a decent amount before we put the poly motor mounts on, and only increased minimally. Just kinda hard to tell how it will be on a stock torque arm car, so I will have to test it there as well. Should be OK, but got to know for sure. They have to be as close to perfect as possible before they become available
He is trying to get a poly end for it from Spohn, or he might put the stocker back on for now. It did shake a decent amount before we put the poly motor mounts on, and only increased minimally. Just kinda hard to tell how it will be on a stock torque arm car, so I will have to test it there as well. Should be OK, but got to know for sure. They have to be as close to perfect as possible before they become available HRpartsNstuff
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Re: motor mounts
It makes it a bolt in fit from my understanding. Of course we will have to test that theory before we say for sure
It makes it a bolt in fit from my understanding. Of course we will have to test that theory before we say for sure
Re: Re: motor mounts
:raises hand: If you need a test car for that I'm here I'm actually having issues with the stock TTA mounts, but I think there is something wroung with the mounts..the right side of the motor sits lower than the left 
Originally posted by HRpartsNstuff
It makes it a bolt in fit from my understanding. Of course we will have to test that theory before we say for sure
:raises hand: If you need a test car for that I'm here
I'm actually having issues with the stock TTA mounts, but I think there is something wroung with the mounts..the right side of the motor sits lower than the left HRpartsNstuff
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We will probably do like we did on the TR's, one part number for stock blocks only, and one part number for all blocks. That way it saves a few bucks for the stock block guys & gals leaving out unnecessary machining.
Here is where we are at with the project:
We are fine tuning the prototypes right now. We got them to bolt up & fit perfect, and the motor sits in there nice & level. Vibration is our only issue right now. With the new poly mounts & frame pads, it feels great at idle in park, light throttle cruising, med & full throttle, and basically all the time, except idling in gear. There seems to be a weird harmonic shake at that one particular point, and we want to make sure it is gone on our final design. We got a few things we are going to try out tomorrow night. The TTA setup should actually vibrate more than the TR's because the TTA's are a unibody construction without the body bushings. We are going for a slight bit less vibrations than the TR's just to be safe. I am waiting on some new custom molded bushings too that should make them even smoother. Once we finalize the design we will be able to post an accurate price that won't change for the first batch or two at least. More info to come soon
Here is where we are at with the project:
We are fine tuning the prototypes right now. We got them to bolt up & fit perfect, and the motor sits in there nice & level. Vibration is our only issue right now. With the new poly mounts & frame pads, it feels great at idle in park, light throttle cruising, med & full throttle, and basically all the time, except idling in gear. There seems to be a weird harmonic shake at that one particular point, and we want to make sure it is gone on our final design. We got a few things we are going to try out tomorrow night. The TTA setup should actually vibrate more than the TR's because the TTA's are a unibody construction without the body bushings. We are going for a slight bit less vibrations than the TR's just to be safe. I am waiting on some new custom molded bushings too that should make them even smoother. Once we finalize the design we will be able to post an accurate price that won't change for the first batch or two at least. More info to come soon
Paul,
I am new to the board, this is my first post. I am anxious to get these mounts, since my next project is an 82 TA that I want to put a turbo Buick engine into. Your parts are just what I need to make this a bolt int deal.
Here is a link to my other project:
http://groups.msn.com/projectgattago
Andrew
I am new to the board, this is my first post. I am anxious to get these mounts, since my next project is an 82 TA that I want to put a turbo Buick engine into. Your parts are just what I need to make this a bolt int deal.
Here is a link to my other project:
http://groups.msn.com/projectgattago
Andrew
I'm dying here! I got buddies with Regals with almost no motor movement whatsoever. Mine's all over the place. I have a hard time getting on line often so if you'd be so kind as to e-mail me(it buzzes my cell phone) when they're available I'd be real appreciative. Not to mention I'd be an immediate customer.
I thank you kindly,
I thank you kindly,
HRpartsNstuff
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Here is the latest update:
I hope I am not jumping the gun before our latest checkout, but we are almost Done! We have the design finalized! WooHoo!!!!!!
We are doing some double & triple checks these last few weeks (actually more like 20th check, but who's counting) on several aspects so everyone is 100% happy with them. Also getting very detailed instructions made up for easy installation as well. I am getting everything together for the first production run this week! Double WooHoo!!!!!!!
It will kinda be a smaller batch to get things rolling (normal procedure for me). They became WAY more involved than I ever expected, but they turned out really nice. The complete assy from the front crossmember to the engine block will be replaced with new parts & custom Poly bushings. This means the frame pads and the motor mounts on both sides. We have Poly in the motor mounts (same as the "softer" TR mounts) and also poly in the new frame pad that they mount to. We also had to add in an isolator pad (special rubber or Poly, still testing for best material) that goes under the frame pads. This makes the vibration level inside the car very acceptable, and better than the early TR mounts for a comparison. They will handle all the power you want to put to them, and come with our standard 1 YR warranty & all new plated hardware to install.
Installation is not as difficult as we first thought it would be, and gets easier every time We can actually do both mounts & both frame pads in about an hour, but that took a lot of practice! It will probably be more like 2 - 3 hrs for beginners There will be a lot of helpful tips & recommended & required tools listed too. We decided to make a special wrench to make it easy, and it will be available separately. There are some "non-standard" tools that if you have them, our special tool won't be needed. I will post all that once I get pics, details, & info ready.
Because of the varying tolerances from car to car, and most people having upgraded downpipes, it looks like they will be offered in pairs only for best results. Installing the pair will obviously eliminate any need for a torque strap too. It will also raise the motor slightly over where a set of brand new GM mounts would place it, as requested for extra downpipe clearance. This height change is less than the change we put into the TR mounts, and gives approx. 1/4" more clearance on the downpipe to frame/A-arm area. This should not be a problem for anyone unless aftermarket parts have the vacuum block into the hood liner already. In that case, we will have something to make it work on those cars as well. These new mounts and pads are a HUGE improvement over the stockers, basically indestructible, and will be the last motor mounts you will ever need for your TTA.
That's all I can say for now, until I get all the results/feedback from some testing done this week/weekend (hopefully). If all goes well, we will be into full production these last weeks of the year. I am working on parts of it now that I know won't change so it goes quicker. I am waiting on our new custom bushings to get molded, which will probably be the last item needed. It looks like very early Jan. for shipping the first batch at this point. I plan to have an introductory offer for everyone that gets in early too. I will post details on that in a couple days once I get the test info back.
Thanks for everyone's patience & support & help!
I hope I am not jumping the gun before our latest checkout, but we are almost Done! We have the design finalized! WooHoo!!!!!!
We are doing some double & triple checks these last few weeks (actually more like 20th check, but who's counting) on several aspects so everyone is 100% happy with them. Also getting very detailed instructions made up for easy installation as well. I am getting everything together for the first production run this week! Double WooHoo!!!!!!!
It will kinda be a smaller batch to get things rolling (normal procedure for me). They became WAY more involved than I ever expected, but they turned out really nice. The complete assy from the front crossmember to the engine block will be replaced with new parts & custom Poly bushings. This means the frame pads and the motor mounts on both sides. We have Poly in the motor mounts (same as the "softer" TR mounts) and also poly in the new frame pad that they mount to. We also had to add in an isolator pad (special rubber or Poly, still testing for best material) that goes under the frame pads. This makes the vibration level inside the car very acceptable, and better than the early TR mounts for a comparison. They will handle all the power you want to put to them, and come with our standard 1 YR warranty & all new plated hardware to install.
Installation is not as difficult as we first thought it would be, and gets easier every time
We can actually do both mounts & both frame pads in about an hour, but that took a lot of practice! It will probably be more like 2 - 3 hrs for beginners There will be a lot of helpful tips & recommended & required tools listed too. We decided to make a special wrench to make it easy, and it will be available separately. There are some "non-standard" tools that if you have them, our special tool won't be needed. I will post all that once I get pics, details, & info ready.Because of the varying tolerances from car to car, and most people having upgraded downpipes, it looks like they will be offered in pairs only for best results. Installing the pair will obviously eliminate any need for a torque strap too. It will also raise the motor slightly over where a set of brand new GM mounts would place it, as requested for extra downpipe clearance. This height change is less than the change we put into the TR mounts, and gives approx. 1/4" more clearance on the downpipe to frame/A-arm area. This should not be a problem for anyone unless aftermarket parts have the vacuum block into the hood liner already. In that case, we will have something to make it work on those cars as well. These new mounts and pads are a HUGE improvement over the stockers, basically indestructible, and will be the last motor mounts you will ever need for your TTA.
That's all I can say for now, until I get all the results/feedback from some testing done this week/weekend (hopefully). If all goes well, we will be into full production these last weeks of the year. I am working on parts of it now that I know won't change so it goes quicker. I am waiting on our new custom bushings to get molded, which will probably be the last item needed. It looks like very early Jan. for shipping the first batch at this point. I plan to have an introductory offer for everyone that gets in early too. I will post details on that in a couple days once I get the test info back.
Thanks for everyone's patience & support & help!
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