tuning nightmare help!

[DR. EVIL]

Here's some scanmaster numbers after driving for 30 minutes. This is at idle.
AF=3
INT=128
BL=90
CLT=184
ATS=103
RPM=825
TPS=.42
PL=2.1
SP=20.3
L8=32
MPH=0

I didn't have an IAC reading on it for some reason, does it not show at idle?

I have my propane injection ready to use but its running really rich right now. I'm getting O2's of 860+ at WOT.
TPS=4.4ish
think BL=128
Line off Fuel Pressure at idle on my gauge is about 43.
I'm getting some break up in the top end but no KR. Sometimes it pulls, and loses some power and then pulls again over and over with my foot firm into it. Not to mention the fact that my manual boost controller seems to be pointless because no matter how I adjust it, I stay at 15psi now. Only when I adjusted the actual wastegate rod did the boost change.
I dont know whats causing this horrible top end problem. If its way too rich, and gets rich knock, will that show as KR on the scanmaster? Definately not the smooth acceleration I used to have. (and 100 degree temps most days isn't helping either).

 

[ES1]

Your BL @ 90 means the computer is maxxed out.
You may need to test and make sure your knock sensor is working because it sounds like it is pullling timing.
You can get rich knock and it will show up on the SM.

 

[ES1]

What version of translator are you using?
I had a similar problem and it was cured by updating the translator chip.

 

[QUIP'6']

ar eyou running pump gas or race gas? and is there any way you can swap coil pack or control module since they are culprits of top end sputter also is this a sudden occurance or has this problem been there? are u sure youhave the maf settings right because thats a major rich idle

 

[DR. EVIL]

its Translator V. 4 I think, last I looked. I know the settings are good, been same for a long time. I have the extender chip, its 23 degrees of timing, I have it set down to base of 19 degrees. its only hitting 15psi boost right now.

its 93 octane with propane spraying about 12psi when I have it on. Its been so damn hot out that I've left it on so I dont have to be conserned with knock.

cant be rich knock unless sensor is jacked up, its not showing knock.

Maf is set to 3" regular, I had it on 3" lean too and no change to problems.
Even set it to 2% and 4% lean on the WOT and no help there.

I've replaced that ignition coil prolly 2 times, so this is my 3rd one now.
this problem just started out of no where, I've had similar probs in the past and they were gone after the ignition coil was replaced. What causes that POS ignition to crap out so often and suddenly if that is the prob?

how do you mean the BL of 90 means the computer is maxed out?

 

[SpoolinUpGN]

how do you mean the BL of 90 means the computer is maxed out?

I don't know too much about using the translator set-up, but i can tell you that a block learn multiplier (BL) of 90 is as low as the computer will read. It's the bottom limit and almost the richest condition the car can run at. This is set in your chip, some brands have higher limits than 90. In any case, this number is contributing to your rich condition pretty heavily. Ideally, this should read 128, but anything +/- 10 of 128 is pretty good. Anything under 128 usually means the car is running rich (higher = lean), but 90 is pig rich. Get this number to change and you'll have much more luck with your other problems.

Your AF of 3 is also very low, usually 5-6 at idle is the right reading. For fixing both of these issues, if you had a stock-style MAF i'd say swap out with a known good one, i'm guessing it'd be worth a try if you know someone with a known good LT1/LS1 MAF (whatever you're using) since that is often the cause of such low BLM#'s.

HTH

 

[TurboBuRick]

With extender chip MAF grams are cut in half. Your MAF is OK.

Pull the plugs. Look to see if a richer condition exists in 1 or all. Look for a black spark plug. May have an injector gone bad.

The top end break up sounds like coil pack/module.

 

[DR. EVIL]

Okay, I went for an oil change today, when we primed the fuel pump before the start, they noticed a small fuel leak running down the Downpipe at the end. Nothing visual top or bottom to see whats leaking, however, I have a shopping looking at it soon as they get me in.

This is starting to sound like an episode of House M.D.

What in the world is causing these ignition modules to go bad? Like I said, this is my 3rd one, and its always sudden. Could this also be causing the rich condition? I'll have the shop check the plugs too for blackness. I drove to get the car washed (before this started, and no I didnt spray the engine), before I left I made sure all the plug wires were on tight and leaned out the fuel on the Translator 2%, then reset the computer using the orange wire by the battery. I immediately noticed it was running rich and acting wacked out on the top end. My car is like a bad girlfriend, gives me just enough of what I want to keep me from kicking her to the curb when she's naughty.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Are you using A/C Delco replacement parts when replacing coilpack and module?

 

[DR. EVIL]

I've only replaced the coil pack once, the ignition module under it is what I'm on my 3rd one of. I cant remember if its AC, its what Autozone sells.

I do know that its usually after I use the Translator that I have a problem, and theres that wire running to the ignition module from the translator. Could my translator be causing the problems?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Auto Zone sells CRAP.

Get a new A/C Delco coilpak and module and that one will last.

We will take the tuning from there.

 

[JSAautomotive]

Yeah.... for the block learn to be so low, you've got some additional fuel getting into the motor somewhere. Bad injector, fuel pressure regulator diaphram ruptured. If you still have the stock fuel pressure regulator, they're famous for the diaphram rupturing and allowing fuel to spew into the vacuum hose nipple then right into the motor. You'd notice the worst conditions at idle like you're experiencing.

"Rich-knock"?? I've never heard of this. Usually if the engine is going to "knock" (detonate), it's because of a lean mixture, not a rich one. Adding fuel to an engine will reduce the peak and total combustion temps, not increase it, which is where detonation occurs.

Like Rick87GN says... buy Delco only. All the other stuff is garbage. Big difference in the discreet componants they use building the electronics.

 

[DR. EVIL]

I'll look up the AC delco parts, but my coil pack should be good, I haven't had issues with that, its just that ignition module.

I checked my line-off fuel pressure at idle and it was about 43 so that seems normal. its an adjustable fuel pressure regulator not a stocker.

the car is waiting at the shop tonight to get the fuel lines looked at tomorrow.

While I got this attention, anyone have any idea why my boost wont change? Obviously if its not sparking correctly and running so rich its not going to boost well, but I cant get the manual controller to do anything. I remember taking off the controller before and the boost built soooo sloooow it was sickning.

anyone have a link or a part number on that AC Delco ignition?

 

[DR. EVIL]

K found the AC Delco part D1996 should be the right part.
Is $130 a good price for this part?

 

[Mike Licht]

If you have a new extender chip (version f or g) you need translator version 6 or newer. Upgrade chips for the translator are available
Mike

 

[TurboBuRick]

K found the AC Delco part D1996 should be the right part.
Is $130 a good price for this part?

Sound real good. Ive seen them for as much as $180.

As far as your boost, Do you have a adjustable accuator on the wastegate?

Mike Licht makes a good point, Check you versions.

 

[DR. EVIL]

I'm using the chip that was sent with the translator itself. I can check the version later sometime.

Got the fuel leak fixed, the downpipe "cut" through a fuel line
They're checking my coil pack right now, and he mentioned that ignition coil will usually act up when it gets hot. I noticed that one night when it was cool outside and I had the car off for hours, that when I ran it for a minute or two it was fine. When I went home and was driving for a while it started acting up.

I have an adjustable wastegate as well as a manual boost controller. I cranked that Manual as tight as it will go and still only 15psi. I gave the wastegate rod a few turns the other night (before the ignition was acting up) and got 18psi.

 

[DonnieShort]

I'm using the chip that was sent with the translator itself. I can check the version later sometime.

Got the fuel leak fixed, the downpipe "cut" through a fuel line
They're checking my coil pack right now, and he mentioned that ignition coil will usually act up when it gets hot. I noticed that one night when it was cool outside and I had the car off for hours, that when I ran it for a minute or two it was fine. When I went home and was driving for a while it started acting up.

I have an adjustable wastegate as well as a manual boost controller. I cranked that Manual as tight as it will go and still only 15psi. I gave the wastegate rod a few turns the other night (before the ignition was acting up) and got 18psi.

How did the downpipe cut through the fuel line??

 

[DR. EVIL]

they said the fuel line was under the downpipe and it more or less cut through it. pressed down on it and pinched it and eventually cut it.

I'm still getting strange motor reactions in the top end. After it warms up its acting like its pulling timing, then not, then pulling, then not. It sounds broken up in the top too. I know its not knocking, so still leaning towards a bad ignition module. They tested the Coil Pack and its all good.

 

[Razor]

Fuel lines in the motor go through drivers side. Downpipe is passenger side So how does the DP hit a fuel line a foot away


Told ya it needed tuning .. and you argued becuase it was dyno'd :redface:

Go search "BLM" and start reading for a week.. you'll learn