Turbo Buick Class 101 Complete. Help Needed with Class 102

[SpeedRacerX]

OK, now that I've learned and lived with my GN for the last year and completed all the upgrades you see in my signature, now it's time to get serious about me really understanding Boost, etc before I blow something up.

Here's what I'm most concerned about - everything in my control to hurt the car is mostly manual. Boost controller. Alky controller, my right foot, etc. The boost and resultant knock and blown head gaskets or worse is easily within my realm to screw up if I'm not careful about watching the gauges like I'm a fighter pilot, doing something stupid, the temperature outside drops, my dump is open, etc, etc.

Is there no automated or computer-controlled way to adjust boost, alky, etc to compensate for outside temp, exhaust flow, etc or am I stuck in "modern FI" car thinking??

I can't believe that all I can do is start conservative and gradually make slight adjustments to the boost under the hood and the alky in the car.

Please tell me that something exists to protect the car from myself. LOL.

Thanks in advance and I'm sorry if I'm asking dumb questions it's just that this car scares me and after putting a ton of money into it, I want to be as smart and safe as I can. I do like to press the right pedal once in awhile.

 

[jckcolarusso]

What scantool do u have

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Newer Scanmaster.

 

[SpeedRacerX]

My issue with the Scanmaster is that it is mostly a reactive tool. I push the gas then after see what the O2s and Knock read BUT it could be too late by that point. I want something proactive with built-in protection. Perhaps something that can sense an over-boost situation and shut it down or cut it back.

 

[Linewalker]

An audible knock detector will save you from yourself. IMHO it is a must have.

 

[jckcolarusso]

Get a powerlogger that will help u

 

[SpeedRacerX]

I'll check all of this out. I heard the audible knock detector gives off a lot of false knock??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[jckcolarusso]

If there's some thing wrong with it that will happen

 

[Linewalker]

It's easy to tell if you are getting false knock. Turn your boost way down. If the knock detector still goes off, it's false knock. From there, search for the cause of the false knock (dowinpipe hitting, a loose bolt, etc.) and eliminate it.

 

[turbo39151]

Basic common sense will go a long way here.
1. Tune boost with the alky so that you NEVER get KR.
2. Put the boost controller out of your reach.
3. Monitor your alky/meth levels so that you're always set on "KILL" (and not cruising around with a near empty tank)
4. You could always try some E85 (if it's available to you)

If you're mindful of what's going on, it's not hard to keep it together. If you go around racing every Honda that revs on you, well...

 

[jckcolarusso]

I think your crazy tuneing with just a scanmaster

 

[turbo39151]

Power logger is nice to have but not "necessary". A Scanmaster will do the trick.
I've had these cars for many years. Not one blown head gasket- ever!

 

[SpeedRacerX]

Is anyone using an electronic boost controller with over boost protection on these cars?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[jckcolarusso]

The powerlogger is the way to go the scanmaster is way to slow and it does not record data

 

[Steve]

I normally use a RJC boost controller because they are cheap and dependable. I usually spend a little time playing with the boost when I first get a car together but once I find the "sweet spot" for boost then I lock it down and leave it alone. I had a rough old T Type a number of years ago that ran a best of 10.48 and I don't think I touched the RJC boost controller a single after the first trip to the track and I raced it for 4 years. If you get your tune right and leave it alone its fairly easy to monitor things from that point forward.

 

[ZNix]

On a stock computer, there really isn't much you can control. If you were to upgrade to a stand alone computer system, such as a FAST, you would have a lot more to work with. Tuning it conservatively is your best bet. Make sure Alky is always full, and keep an eye on the KR.

 

[TurboDave]

On a stock computer, there really isn't much you can control. If you were to upgrade to a stand alone computer system, such as a FAST, you would have a lot more to work with. Tuning it conservatively is your best bet. Make sure Alky is always full, and keep an eye on the KR.

Oh yee of little faith! You obviously are NOT familiar with SD2.

 

[ZNix]

Oh yee of little faith! You obviously are NOT familiar with SD2.

I was not considering the SD2. But you are right, that chip opens more options than previously available. I am rather familiar with it, I was considering using it at one point.

 

[TurboDave]

I was not considering the SD2. But you are right, that chip opens more options than previously available. I am rather familiar with it, I was considering using it at one point.

LOTS more!!!

 

[TurboBob]

an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

have a system that is built for higher HP than you run. Do not tune "on the edge" .

whenever you go out cruising, do a test squeeze and a test stomp (in that order) to make sure things are working.

inspect a few critical things often. (wastegate hoses is the first thing that comes to mind).

the overboost / closed loop / just-in-case systems all catch things after they happen.

Bob