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Turbo removal and oil pump cover bolts

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2sloUknow

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
104
Two simple questions: first does the oil pump cover, aka oil filter adapter, use 1 bolt that is longer than the other 5? I bought a low mileage 85 TType that was using more oil than gas lol. Leaking out of the are where the oil pump cover and timing cover mate. Today started to work on the issue, figured a bad gasket and I come to find a crack in the tc cover where this extra long bolt, with a non oem pair of washers, was seated. Pictures will follow. Prior owner had just had the tc replaced at 80k and was leaking since. Did not go to an experienced tr mechanic.

Second I am putting in a new turbo along with associated mods and getting this thing out is a biatch! The upper downpipe bolt was spinning and coming out slowly when all of a sudden SNAP! Oh well sh!t happens. At least I know the remaining piece should back out easily. Anyways any recommendations for getting the lower dp bolt out ? And any other roadblocks I shoild look out for? Ive owned ic tr's since my father bought 1 new in 87 but this is my first hot air.

Thanks for any and all help.


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Two simple questions: first does the oil pump cover, aka oil filter adapter, use 1 bolt that is longer than the other 5?


There should be one longer bolt and if I remember correctly it is inside by the oil filter adapter on the tall boss. The importance of getting the pump put together with the right clearances can't be understated if you want proper oiling. The gasket thickness plays a role in the clearances. Also, beware of some aftermarket timing covers as the machining can be off and the camshaft sensor wont fit when the cover is installed on the engine. Earl Brown was kind enough to give the Buick community a nice and funny write up on oil pumps here:

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/39169-how-build-front-cover-oil-pump.html
 
This may be out of my area since I only own an 87'GN
If the timing cover is the same as for an 87" then use this diagram as it shows bolt location and also what size bolts.
There are four long bolts that goes through the water jacket engine block, and I used Pertmatex Thread Sealant with PTFE (Item #80632)
 

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There should be one longer bolt and if I remember correctly it is inside by the oil filter adapter on the tall boss. The importance of getting the pump put together with the right clearances can't be understated if you want proper oiling. The gasket thickness plays a role in the clearances. Also, beware of some aftermarket timing covers as the machining can be off and the camshaft sensor wont fit when the cover is installed on the engine. Earl Brown was kind enough to give the Buick community a nice and funny write up on oil pumps here:

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/39169-how-build-front-cover-oil-pump.html


Bison, Earl's info is very important and I've read most of it and plan on following his directions for modifying the tc when I do replace it. As for the bolt, when you say on the inside do you mean towards the inside of the block, or 1 of the 2 actually inside where the filter attaches? The shop that did the work before I bought the vehicle gave it back with the long bolt on the outside , inboard of the block, front where the raised boss is. Just seems too coincidental that the tc is cracked on this boss and the crack and adapter were leaking like a texas oil field.
 
It has been a while since I messed with the cover but as bison indicated the bolt length can be checked with the adapter in place. It should be fairly obvious with the adapter in hand, but from the looks of your existing broken cover the previous mechanic missed it. There is one tall boss that takes the longer bolt. When I posted earlier I thought it was on the inside of the oil filter seal but after looking at this picture it appears to be by the regulator spring housing. Just take a close look at the five holes and make sure the long bolt is in the hole that has the thickest material. Hope this helps.
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Those are the stock bolts on the filter adapter you started with. You can tel because they use a smaller head than an normal 1/4'' bolt. There's a couple on the adapter that require the extra room to keep the socket from hitting the casting.


On your DP bolt, if it's above flush you can probably take your time with some vice grips and penetrating jizz. Work it back and forth for a few seconds at a time. Keep in mind that friction=heat and heat=expansion. If you can get it to move back and forth but still not want to come out, GIVE IT TIME and you can getit.

Otherwise the best course of action is a vertical milling machine like Bison mentioned.
 
Yea, penetrating jizz and work it back and forth, friction = head. Wait, what are we talking about?
 
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