Two Hooters (gc) if you figure this out.

M

Mike70gtx

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2001
i'm desperate, so two Hooter's gift cards worth $10 a piece to the person who can help me get this car going. I won these at a car auction and since I'm in the ministry I figured that would be a good place Not to be seen. So here's the rules: I'll give you some info to start with and then you ask questions and give me some diagnostic techniques. The person who hits it on the head first will get the prize.
I pulled motor to replace headgaskets, so I did bearings, etc. For the last two months I've been trying to get this running. At first it was missing and popping. I now have new crank sensor, new plugs and wires, new cam sensor, new coil. Also a new ignition module which did get it running good enough to go to town. Now it sounds like it's running on 5 to 5 1/2 cylinders. I will post pics of my passenger side plugs. It look like #1 cylinder is not getting as hot.
 

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What caused you to lose the head gasket? Which cylinder?

Flat flat-tappet? Did check the cam when you had it down?
 
Hows your fuel pressure? Sounds like it may be running too rich, clooged injector/injectors, or maybe wrong chip. Rich may be caused by a boost leak after the MAF. Check your intercooler clamps and hoses and maybe a leak in the intercooler itself. Also might want to check TB and plenum gaskets.
 
Cam looked good. I had a lot of valve train noise when I first fired it up. It scared me enough to shut it down. It did finally leave. I pulled the valve cover on the passenger side and all my rockers are moving. Each one about a 1/2 inch. Fuel pressure was 43 (vac off) I bought a noid light and the injectors were firing. I pulled the injectors and had them flowed. I did have it running good enough after a few new sensors to go to town and back it ran pretty good so I gave it about 3/4 trottle and it pulled good then lost power. I limped home to find out I blew the up pipe off at the motor. Put it back on changed plugs and then it would hardly run. It would foul all of the plugs. Since then I have the new ignition module, etc. Now it runs rough.
 
Are GCs good at all locations?

My guess would be that something electronic isnt hooked up, or is hooked up incorrect. Hurry and double check the conections. I'm planning the Hooters lunch for next week. So, I'll need the GCs pritty soon:D .
 
did you set the cam sensor correctly. It should be set 25 degrees past top dead center get the caspers tool to do this.
 
I'm about to the place that I'd drive to California and take you to lunch if I could get it running. Can you be more specific on the electrical? My blms were about 115 at idle and by the time I got to town they were about 109.
 
Did we leave an injector plug disconnected?

Or is the chip mismatched for the injectors?
 
Sent my translator, ecm, chip into Fullthrottle to make sure they were good. I'll recheck injector connections, but pretty sure they are good.
 
Response

You said your number 1 plug wasn't getting hot enough, well why are you showing the passenger side plugs the #1 plug is on the driver side, got the correct ignition module output to the correct coil and correct coil to the correct cylinder? Not interested in the cards but I will try to help.:D

i just had an experiance with a new ignition module and coil pack my self.

Make sure your using an AC delco ignition module, and AC delco coil pack.

My problem was the car was missing under high load 25 psi boost.

I made a few mistakes because I was in a hurry but here you go:
Original problem: misses under high load.
one plug wire has a bad connection between the spiral wire and snap connector, open/ contuniuty as you moved the wire.

One coil tower reads low approx 10.7 k ohms.

I ordered new accel coil pack, and MSD plug wires, new plugs gapped @ 0.035"
Ran for 5 secoonds and would not restart. I guessed (no trouble shooting) as I was in a hurry and blieved the new high output coil pack has taken it's toll on the output drivers of the old ingition module, so I rush to go get another one before the race track closes O'reilly brand BWD.

Install, same problem, :mad: the CCCI fuse was blown. Replace fuse and the car starts but still has the same miss under load. Ok well my scope is at work so I take a chance and change out the crank sensor, O'reilly brand BWD. Same problem.:mad:

Close gap to 0.032" new plugs
Reset cam sensor timing

The swapping game:
New ing module old coil pack, still misses
New ing module new coil pack, still misses
Old ing module, new coil pack still misses
Old ign module old coil pack, only hiccups one time in 10 pulls.
All old stuff is AC delco!

As I was looking at the new ignition module, the supply voltage to the cam and crank sensors was 5 vdc, the old AC delco unit was 7 vdc. Well that fine if the sensors are rated to work in that range, but are they?, because i'm sure the tirgger inputs for the new Ign module were designed to work with the lower signal voltage. I would just like to see aftermarkt stuff engineered to spec. or better.Not that 5 vdc isn't good enough but the higher voltage would give a better signal to noise ratio, reducing false triggring. And if they can't get that right waht else is out of spec?????

My point, if it's not ac delco don't buy it!!!
 
AC delco coil and ignition module. Auto zone crank sensor, cam sensor and Caspers cam sensor cap.
My bad, it was the drivers side plugs and it was the drivers side valve cover I took off.
 
Valve springs

Your rockers might be going up and down but triple check the valve springs and make sure there's not a busted coil. I just went through this on my car. #1 cylinder exhaust valve was broke and weak but still worked. #1 cylinder was about 300 degrees cooler than the others. The exhaust was shooting back through the intake I believe. The car still drove OK for a while but got worse over time. Hope this helps.
 
Do a compression test and post results. Remove all the plugs and hold the throttle open while testing. Hooters is a family restaurant. The ministry would not be and should not be offended. I can not be offended by anything.
 
I did a compression on 1,3 and 5. They were 150, 140, 150, the throttle was open but the motor was not very warm.
 
the low BLM's indicate that fuel is being pulled out. so if it were an injector or fueling issue i would think it would be a leaky injector but u had all of those tested and used a noid light to check firing.

have u put a vac. gauge on the car? a fluctuating needle would more than likely point to a mechanical problem. hth!
 
reply

Plug damaged, insulator cracked?
plug wires ohms out good?
Coil towers ohm good?
Crank sensor gap set correct?
From the pic the plug looks wet, is that gas wet or coolant wet?
Plug gap set correct?
Voltage @ ingintion module good, approx 13.5 vdc idling.
Grounds @ battery and ignition module good.
Ground strap connected to back of cylinder head?
 
Plug damaged, insulator cracked? 4th set of new plugs
plug wires ohms out good? New wires and swapped them around
Coil towers ohm good? Tried two coils
Crank sensor gap set correct? Set old crank sensor gap with not change, put new one one with no and regapped with no change
From the pic the plug looks wet, is that gas wet or coolant wet? It is a little gas wet.
Plug gap set correct? 32 gap
Voltage @ ingintion module good, approx 13.5 vdc idling. Volts have always been a little low on scanmaster 12's, but good at alternator.
Grounds @ battery and ignition module good. It ran good after I did the cam sensor and then I blew the uppipe off and changed plugs and it was backfiring. But I did have two wires mixed up. Then it was fouling plugs. So I got a new ignition module and it fixed that. But now runs rough.
Ground strap connected to back of cylinder head? Check when put motor back in. will check again.
 
Mike70gtx said:
i'm desperate, so two Hooter's gift cards worth $10 a piece to the person who can help me get this car going. I won these at a car auction and since I'm in the ministry I figured that would be a good place Not to be seen. So here's the rules: I'll give you some info to start with and then you ask questions and give me some diagnostic techniques. The person who hits it on the head first will get the prize.
I pulled motor to replace headgaskets, so I did bearings, etc. For the last two months I've been trying to get this running. At first it was missing and popping. I now have new crank sensor, new plugs and wires, new cam sensor, new coil. Also a new ignition module which did get it running good enough to go to town. Now it sounds like it's running on 5 to 5 1/2 cylinders. I will post pics of my passenger side plugs. It look like #1 cylinder is not getting as hot.
Click to expand...

Something is ****ed up or not working right.






Did I win?
 
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