Two Hooters (gc) if you figure this out.

Quote: I had a lot of valve train noise when I first fired it up.

Hopefully you primed the oil pump before start up. Did the cam sensor go in the correct way? To pull and take apart the engine, you probably undid way more than a dozen electrical conections of one sort or another. Get a flash light if needed and recheck them all. Check for bent pins on the chip too.

Recheck the switches on the translator.
 
Did it run good (other than the blown HG) before you took it apart?
 
Put it back on changed plugs and then it would hardly run. It would foul all of the plugs.

Have you triple checked your plug wires to make sure they're connected to the correct cylinder? Other than that I would be interested in any scan numbers you can give and also what the state of tune was when you took it into town before you blew the up pipe off. Did you get any knock when that happened by the way? One thing you can do is pull plug wires while it's running (or shut if off and do one at a time if you hate getting shocked like I do:eek: ) and verify for sure what cylinder isn't hitting. That's where I would start assuming you're sure the maf is good.
 
today i ran across a friends gn that he sold 6 years ago to an older guy and has been siting for 3 years the guy was spraying carb cleaner and ether down the throttle body trying to keep it running he said he parked because it ran like dog s*#t and hes ready to give up because he spent so much on parts just guessing. i unplug his mass air as he said this and the car idled fine. i lent him one now hes happy as hell. just be patient somebody will help you here
 
Lets check the out put from the coils

Make a cheap spark tester:

1/4-20 all thread
3, 1/4-20 nuts
alligator clip
wire
ring terminal

I made mine out of plastic
but any non conductive material will work.

Unplug the injector on the cylinder your testing so you don't wash down the cylinder. Then easily slide the boot onto the 1/4 20 all thread, ground the other end using the alligator clip. Then start the car to see how far the spark will jump. compare the distance of each. Measure and log it.
 

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Looks like the injector in firing too long. Maybe shorted to ground? Use a noid light to check the injector pulse. You can buy one at an auto parts place.
 
Sorry, did not read all the responses, but did not see "Leaking injector in #1" mentioned (?)
 
AC delco coil and ignition module. Auto zone crank sensor, cam sensor and Caspers cam sensor cap.
My bad, it was the drivers side plugs and it was the drivers side valve cover I took off.

I dont want the hooters GC either, but check your crank sensor again.
I know its brand new from Auto Zone, but a friend of mine had 2 new ones from there and still had problems..
Bought an AC Delco one.. and POOF... no more problems.
Could also be rubbing or moved.
 
Coil wires

Not interested in GC's

Sounds like you have checked all the grounds and power connections, the vac lines, injectors and outer electronics.

Just wondering if the car sat inside or outside during the engine work?
If it sat outside I have seen water leak into the ECM and corrode the pins.

Just for the plug wiring heres a pic.


Later AJ

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I dont want the hooters GC either, but check your crank sensor again.
I know its brand new from Auto Zone, but a friend of mine had 2 new ones from there and still had problems..
Bought an AC Delco one.. and POOF... no more problems.
Could also be rubbing or moved.

I agree with you Gary, ditch the autozone crank sensor and your problem will be fixed.
When it comes to sensors, everyone likes to learn the hard way. Most of the time its on a Sunday and all you can get is auto zone or pep boys crap. You buy it and Monday your back at the A/C delco supplier buying one that actually works. :eek:
 
A shot in the dark....

Have you checked and cleaned your ground wires to the engine...? The ground at the back of the head is frequently corroded and can cause some pretty odd symptoms, some of which sound like yours. :)
 
Just had another thought for you.

Have seen where people like to make things nice and pretty (nothing wrong with pretty) and paint the ign/coil bracket it looks great but the ground disappears most times.

Later AJ
 
scanmaster readings with key on engine off?go back to the basic checks and work back up.go to gnttype.org read,read,read.i've seen a 18 cent shear pin whoop one of the best tr guys here......it happens to all of us.and no,i wont say who it was.:wink:
 
If you look at the plugs and what he typed it shows one of the plugs are fuel fouled. Now if it was a crank sensor then it should cause all the plugs to look the same. And if it was a coil pack then two should be fouled. But only one is. I would look at what would cause one plug to foul. It fires one injector at a time in order of the firing. If a injector trigger wire is grounded then it would stay on or fire very heavy. Just what I see.
 
Great responses and diagrams. When I get home I sort through all of this and give you some updates.
 
Did it run good (other than the blown HG) before you took it apart?It had been running good. I was at the track the day before and it was good. The next day it looked like I was a little rich so I turned my translator from !4% rich down to 12%. I got on it getttin on to the interstate and it missed and backfired. I was watching for knock and did a wot to pass someone and it popped again. The next stop light my temp went up and I had the milkshake oil.
I have been running a caspers electrical booster to my ignition module. It is now unhooked, but it went bad one other time and this ac delco module only had about 2000 miles on it. After I did the plug wires and cam sensor, it ran good on my one trip to town. (thats when the uppipe came off) I get back put in new plugs and the thing hardly runs. It was fouling all but the #3 plug. Thats when I had injectors flowed; no difference. Then a new coil and module which brought me to the current condition.
 
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