Unless I can figure out how to battle they are totalling my car

[Intercooler]

They still insist that my T is worth 5k. I plan on sending the "Special Interest" NADA figure of 10k-14k but they said this morning it will probably be a salvage deal and I can buy it back for $600.00. WTF?? I didn't have to battle hard when my GN burned in the fire but this time I am being stone-walled like crazy and we haven't gotten past my radiator and IC. When they say totalled.... does that mean I get nothing for the car and have the option to buy it back for $600.00? How do I go about battling with them on totalling it out? Someone has BTDT from the board.

 

[GNSCOTT]

sometimes it works out in your behalf. They will give you what the car is worth ($5k) and let you buy it back for $600. The bodies usually aren't worth more than a couple of grand, but if there was alot of driveline damage you will get screwed. Either way, get all the info you can. KBB, NADA, ads on this board, ads in local papers etc and see if that helps. It would be even sweeter to get $10k and be able to buy the car back for $600.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

If you have replacement value coverage, tell them to find a TB in similar shape for 5000 and you'll buy it. Most insurance is "replacement value" and you need to show them how much it would be to replace your car. The cars for sale section on this board will show them that its worth more than $5000

 

[Intercooler]

I just got the official numbers:

$4230.00 for the car.... totalled
- $650.00 to buy it back

$3580.00 is what that gives me to fix it all.


It seems my $1100.00 FM they will argue to the grave it seems. They will tack another $548.00 for a stocker that you no longer can get but won't pay for the aftermarket....figures


Basically $4,000.00 with the IC added. $1100.00 gets whacked of for just a new IC so I have $3,000.00 to fix/paint the remainder.


Since I don't have a receipt for the Be-Cool radiator (was in the car when I bought it) I get $O for it.

 

[Nick Micale]

I have done appraisals for owners and insurance companies. Until you know your state laws/regulations, it will be difficult to make a plan.

In our state, there is an appeal process for owners not satisified with ins. co. settlements. If you contact your state insurance comission office [or whatever it is called], they could give you info on where to begin.

 

[Jack Evers]

Actually, auto policies more often deal with the term Actual Cash Value rather than Replacement Cost. If the Limit of Liability on your policy is ACV, that's what you are due.

Check your policy to see if aftermarket equipment or installations of same are in any way excluded or limited. If not, the company owes ACV including the ACV of the intercooler, after market turbo, wheels, tires, etc. This is normally figured on the basis of market value of these aftermarket parts (used) or the cost new less depreciation.

The arbritration provision that Nick referred to is not statutory (as indicated) but contractual. Check your Policy Conditions for an Arbitration provision. Look for something like this: "If you and we fail to agree as to the amount of loss, either may demand an appraisal of loss. In such event, you and we shall each select a competent appraiser and the appraisers shall select a competent and disinterested umpire. The appraisers shall state separately the actual cash value and the amount of loss, and failing to agree, shall submit their differences to the umpire. An award in writing of any two shall determine the amount of loss. You and we shall each pay the chosen appraiser and bear equally the expense of the umpire."

 

[DCEPTCN]

I'm not sure if this will help you any, but just the same.....I sell insurance for a living (I'm an Allstate agent) and when people have special interest cars, I always recommend that they check out Haggerty Insuarance Co. They are a company that insures ONLY special interest cars...and for dirt cheap, too! My GN with a 0 deductible is $300 a year!! (anyone reading this might also want to check them out) The only catch to Haggerty is that they are harder than all get out to sign up with, they probably turn down %70 of the people who apply with them. The reason I am telling you this is because they have a much better knowledge of collectable cars and their value ratings are much higher. By Blue Book, my GN is worth like 13K (!?!?), but according to Haggerty, it is more like 18K. I don't know if it will help you, but here's another ins. co. that can actually help you prove your car's worth to a company that (like most of them) still thinks A GN is nothing more than a 6 cyl. Regal............fun fact of the day: everyone has heard of the bad-guy list of cars that insurance companies keep record of, and get this: a camaro , mustang, firebird,trans am...heck, even a nissan 300zx.....but Grand Nationals? They still haven't caught on, I suppose those old grocery-getter boats of ours are more 'sleeper' than even we thought.

 

[MeanBuicks]

Why does Haggerty turn down some 70% of applicants?

 

[John Larkin]

It's nice you are getting some cash to fix your car but are you going to get a rebuilt title and the pain that goes with that?

 

[DCEPTCN]

Originally posted by MeanBuicks
Why does Haggerty turn down some 70% of applicants?

Because, in order to keep their rates so low, they make certain that the owner is going to defend his car with his life. Their underwriting team requires many photos of your car, proof that it is stored in a locked garage....as a matter of fact, I got a quote from them and was thrilled and so I told them to sign me up, but when they asked me more questions to complete my application, I was turned down. Wanna know why? My daily driver is a '91 Dodge Stealth RT. They informed me that if your other car (they assume that you don't drive your specialty car everyday) is older than 10 years, that disqualifies you too. ...But man, if you can get in! I talked to a guy at a car show this summer who had an old split-window Corvette with 0 deductable.....he paid something like $145 a year! I recommend everyone try to buy Haggerty insurance....and if you're in New Mexico-buy it from me!

 

[Intercooler]

That is what I was thinking about today. If they total it I have to get a rebuilt title or something and I bet it is a mess. I just checked the IC out and although it has a few Smooshed spots I don't think it has any leaks. I am taking it to the radiator shop tomorrow for testing and repairs. Maybe I can get a little something out of it.

 

[TType84]

what we did.. and it still didnt help.

i have a photo book of the restoration of my car. bring a book with all the photos of all the work and effort you've put into your car.

bring a few dozen printed out ads for turbo buicks for sale to show them that they're worth a lot of money to everyone, not just to you... get some from here, the TRader, and ebay.

also pick up a hemmings and a CPI value guide (cars of particular interest)

www.cpivalueguide.com you used to be able to do a KBB.com type of put in your car's info and get a general appraisal.

FWIW, they said my car was only worth $3k when we first walked in the door. ( http://home.comcast.net/~nbx23 )

also, if they act retarded, just leave. dont go off on them, it was very hard for me to resist punching the stupid ass old hag in the face when she tried to tell me that my car was a regular buick regal. my insurance would not be so f'ing high if my car was a regular buick regal. they know this and all they want to do is screw you over. do not take any checks until you are satisfied.

 

[89SandBagger]

I just went through this same crap with my TTA, 33k miles on it, near mint condition, and they told me they were going to salvage the car out and give me 5 fricking grand...took the ins co 2.5 weeks to get an appraiser out to look at the car...first estimate they appraised the car for 5k, 2nd time for $7500. Until finally we submitted NUMEROUS blue book values and private seller values. We got as high as talking with the Vice Pres of Commerce Ins co and he delt with it in our favor. The car is at Nikole Auto body here in MA, and it could not be in a better place. If it were for Ernie Nikole my car would be scarred for life with a salvage title. Btw, dmg wasnt that bad either My advice is only talk to supervisors, not claim reps, and get as much info as you can, because if you have an a33hole ins co like Commerce, they will screw you

 

[1ARUNEM]

Essentially they are saying that your car is worth $4230 ACV (actual cash value) or what you could sell it for. Now for the important question, what was your car "realistically" worth before the accident? Do not add up all the bolt ons you have and come with a total... What would the car sell for in the real world as it was 1 minute prior to the accident..?

Insurance companies settle total losses based on ACV. This (as mentioned above) is the real market value of the vehicle just prior to the accident.. If you feel the car was worth $8k, then that is what you should get and then they should offer to let you buy it back for the salvage value.

The likely determined the ACV of your vehicle by running a CCC (Certified Collateral Corportation) report which essentially surveys cars for sale in your market similiar to yours.. This likely included ALOT of base model regals which could have skewed the value downward.

Here's what I suggest.... Print off ALL the adds from this board, get copies of local adds (classifieds, TR's, etc.), search www.autotraderonline.com and print out adds for TR there.. Present this information to them and show them what the REAL value of a TR (and not a run of the mill regal) is really worth..

With that said, if you convince them to come to a more realistic ACV, then the vehicle may NOT be considered a total loss. A vehicle is determined to be a total loss if the unit has damage above a certain % of the total value of the vehicle.. MOST states use a 75% to value total threshold... I.e. If the damage is $7500 on a $10000 car, it LEGALLY must be considered a total loss. If the damage is $7499 on a $10k car, it is repairable (unless severe frame or other structural integrity damage causes it to be deemed unrepairable)..

You have a hard row to hoe, BUT if you do your homework, you can show the insurance company that their value is an Inaccurate one..

Goodluck..
1ARUNEM <---- (former insurance adjuster for the Good Hands)

 

[Intercooler]

I sent my adjuster Kirban's sold cars, Auto-Trader cars, NADA Collectables book value today and it must be sinking in some. He phones at 6:30 which is past hours to ask me to take on a project. Now he wants me to find the parts I need to fix it and submit it to him.... he said they may not total it. More work for me but worth it if it doesn't get totalled. I basically need from the radiator support forward. I know the hood, fillers, grill, lights and air-dams are available new. I don't know about the bumper, supports or other items. I am going back with fiberglass anyways but need the stock stuff for the list. I got a list from BWeavy but I don't think he had "all" the stuff that is still available new.


As for the car value.... It was straight and everything from front to back including the interior, trans and motor were new, just needed painted. I would say at least 10k for it. The guy did say judging from the motor appearance it looked to be 5k alone.... which is why I wonder how he can feel right telling me the car is a total loss at 5k

 

[KendallF]

I will second Warren's comments. I wrecked my Dakota R/T last summer. Initially they came back with something like a $13k ACV and told me they'd total it. I owed around $15k.

I asked the adjuster about the procedure used to determine ACV and it was basically as Warren said..surveys of car dealers in the area and they'd included a lot of base Dakotas. I pointed out the (relative) rarity of the R/T, produced several pages full of ads from web sites and papers, and ended up settling for just over $17k.

They did try the "well, if it's worth that much we won't total it" gambit; the damage was just under 75% of the negotiated settlement. I said, fine, I like the truck, I will just be a pain in the ass to ensure it's perfect when repaired. They totaled it and I got the check the next day.

 

[NJTurbo]

Jesse you really have bad luck. 2 GN'S to the curb Not to mention all the money you have dumped on mods. Good Luck

 

[zam70]

Just curious, Why are you pricing all new parts?
If the INS Co. goes for it, great but, None that I work with would.

Just for the record, we fixed a wrecked GN about 6 months ago, Total repair was $10,000+. The Insurance Co, had no problem with it (country Co.)

Also, IF they total it and YOU buy it back, it will not have a Salvage (rebuilt) title. (in Illinois) If some one other than the owner buys it, it will have a salvage/rebuild title.

I'd push it. There is NO WAY this car is a total. You're doing the right thing. They don't look very hard for an ACV, you'll have to give them proof.

 

[Intercooler]

Originally posted by njturbo
Jesse you really have bad luck. 2 GN'S to the curb Not to mention all the money you have dumped on mods. Good Luck

One GN gone...RIP, but the T is totally fixable. Mods are all still good. More work to get the Be-Cool out to have a look but I think just the drain pet-cock got pinched. I think it can be fixed like new plus it is aluminum so it is easily welded.

Zam,

I don't really want all new but I know going in some things are discontinued or I will have to go used. I just want to put as many new items I can get on the paper to hopefully tip the scale in my favor or else they will be dictating to me. I think it is time to just call the body shop I want to use in to give me an estimate. Their computer should kick out what things aren't available. The things that aren't I will just get used but I don't paint so I need that part of the equation from them.

 

[EightSecV6]

If they total it in MD, you will end up with a salvage title, if you ever decide to sell it, the car will be worth much less.