UPDATE: 9.86@137 stock bottom end

[forcefed3.8's]

Just so you will know, I’m turbo buick newbie, however, I am very mechanically minded and I have been building Jeeps for years. My last one had an LS1 in it, so I know enough to get myself into trouble. It is just this OBD 1 stuff that I’m not all that familiar with! So please bear with me as I have a few more questions (this time more build specific):

1) How do you make an 85mm truck MAF work with your stock ECM?

2) So it’s a myth that you need upgraded fuel lines to run E85?

3) No other changes to stock suspension to make it hook like that (other than new control arm bushings passenger side airbag)?

4) Don’t laugh at this one as it may be my Jeep heritage coming through here. When you say, “powerstroke front mount”, do you mean Powerstroke Intercooler as in Ford F250/350 powerstroke??

Somebody needs to post a dictionary of abbreviated terms on here somewhere. As it takes a while to figure it all out (hours and hours of study / reading trust me)!!

The 85mm maf needs a translator to work and an extender chip to utilize the extra metering capability. Actually the 85mm was causing problems. I went back to the LS1 sensor.
This car is on stock fuel lines, but is pretty close to the limits of them. A friend of mine went 8.96 on stock lines on gas, and the lines were done.
Bushings and an air bag is all that is done to the suspension. I have never had a problem getting one of these cars to 60'. A lot of it is in technique.
The intercooler is out of a 2001 7.3 ford f250. It was a common low buck upgrade. I bought this intercooler for $100. I was going to use it in my car, then at that time I got a stock location for it, and we put it on the Cutlass.

 

[seedling]

The 85mm maf needs a translator to work and an extender chip to utilize the extra metering capability. Actually the 85mm was causing problems. I went back to the LS1 sensor.
This car is on stock fuel lines, but is pretty close to the limits of them. A friend of mine went 8.96 on stock lines on gas, and the lines were done.
Bushings and an air bag is all that is done to the suspension. I have never had a problem getting one of these cars to 60'. A lot of it is in technique.
The intercooler is out of a 2001 7.3 ford f250. It was a common low buck upgrade. I bought this intercooler for $100. I was going to use it in my car, then at that time I got a stock location for it, and we put it on the Cutlass.

Thanks for the info and taking the time to respond!

Yeah lesson learned on the MAF (just purchased an LT1 MAF and Translator cause I was told LS1 wouldn't work). And I had just given away an extra LS1 sensor I had laying around as I was told it was of no use for my stock ECU. Should have known better or really delved into, but, I didn't and that's on me! Oh well!

Stock location intercooler on the car in your signature, I assume? WOW!

Again thanks for your time! And well deserved KUDOS for a glaring example of a car done right / performing its best (working as it should)!!

Thanks!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

My silver car has a front mount now. At the time, the car was a frame off restoration, and I was going for a stock appearing look. It is far from that now.

 

[seedling]

My silver car has a front mount now. At the time, the car was a frame off restoration, and I was going for a stock appearing look. It is far from that now.

LOL! OK I see!! Thanks and nice car by the way! Love the silver!!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

As far as springs, stock springs need changed out, but they are not going to be the same springs that a roller cam would use. A roller cam will use a stonger spring.

 

[seedling]

OK thanks! That's what I thought - springs twice! That seems to be the of the Turbo Buick World though as it seems like you upgrade to get to a certain level, then you have to re-engineer and re-upgrade all over again to get to yet another level and so on and so forth!! Thanks!!

 

[turboc87gn]

I was wondering what fuel rail and regulator you are using and if you are using the stock rail have you modded any fittings on it at all? I know you are using stock lines still..... I see people dual feeding, champion rails, etc etc..... I already have a accufab regulator in the box i just bought to replace my stock billet top, and hope i can make use of it......

 

[turbobuick]

Awesome job Rob!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

I was wondering what fuel rail and regulator you are using and if you are using the stock rail have you modded any fittings on it at all? I know you are using stock lines still..... I see people dual feeding, champion rails, etc etc..... I already have a accufab regulator in the box i just bought to replace my stock billet top, and hope i can make use of it......

Stock lines in the frame, then teflon hose up to the rail and regulator. The only reason it has the teflon lines is because the factory lines dont fit with the champion alt/power steering bracket.

 

[Bobs rare 6]

What timing were you running?

 

[Mike T]

Great job rob! I've noticed this thread before but never really read through it, gotta say this was a HUGE accomplishment given the bare bones parts list.

I like to play around with the ET calculators and from what I've seen they're pretty close. I ran the numbers on your car and (if accurate) found the HP to be way up there.......any guesses what the HP is to the ground?

 

[forcefed3.8's]

I would guess around 600 on a mustang dyno. The car now has a built bottom end and a 6766 turbo.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

21° timing

 

[Mike T]

I would guess around 600 on a mustang dyno. The car now has a built bottom end and a 6766 turbo.

Thanks for the reply Rob. I use the Wallace calculator to play around with hypothetical HP,weight,ET,MPH ext. I've used it to calculated ET/MPH correctly on a couple of friends cars with great accuracy using known HP numbers. I does seem to have a few quirks though because it comes up with around 720 on you car??

 

[evil666]

Thanks for the reply Rob. I use the Wallace calculator to play around with hypothetical HP,weight,ET,MPH ext. I've used it to calculated ET/MPH correctly on a couple of friends cars with great accuracy using known HP numbers. I does seem to have a few quirks though because it come up with around 720 on you car??

720hp, would make sense at the motor.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

720 flywheel seems right. The Mustang dyno I use is very conservative. 650 will run mid 9s.
I play around with the calculator on vexer.com. it has been very accurate playing around with adding hp or subtracting weight.

 

[Jerryl]

The year is 2019 and still think this should be a sticky.

 

[seedling]

The year is 2019 and still think this should be a sticky.

This one and a few others ought to be etched into stone somewhere. Just saying is all.


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[Jerryl]

Agreed. Someone should start the TR 10 commandments, and stick it. Lol

 

[seedling]

Someone should start the TR 10 commandments, and stick it. Lol

Lol! Amen!!

I seriously believe that there should be an entire forum section dedicated to the stock block pioneers, as there are many threads that need to be placed there. And if for no other reason, just to show what can and / or has been done and more importantly whose done it and how, as well. The information that has been shared on this forum has been incredibly enlightening for me. And let’s face it, our cars are somewhat finicky. And although you don’t have to spend a million bucks to go fast. I mean sure you need to be ready spend some money in some areas (and you can’t cheap on those areas). However, when you get the combo and the tune right, then you have a machine that performs like no other. It’s incredibly fascinating to watch these thirty plus year old cars, still giving new (big cube) technology a run for their money. And that to me is what these cars are all about!!

VOTE NOW FOR STOCK BLOCK SECTION!!


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