Turbo__Tim
One heck of a Tim!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I have posted this in the tech. area, and remembered I promised to report the results of going to a 2 stage set-up with my SMC kit.
Also I am going to combine the propane kit from Power Imports with my SMC kit. I converted the SMC today to a 2 stage system today. I went with aquamist nozzles.
Using 2 nozzles (1 MM?) one comes on at 5 psi, the other at 15 psi. Due to the better atomization, I am running a 50-50 de-natured water mixture. Early results are promising. I can turn the pump speed all the way up, and am using exactly half the fliud as before when I used 100 percent de-natured.
(Thank you Steve Hill for stressing how important it is to vaporize the mix..)
I don't have many details to give yet. I can't locate my hi boost solenoid so all I can say is I'm at 20 psi, no knock, and pulling hard. No transitional knock either. Egt's were at 1550 at 85 mph. Maybe a little high, but I only had time for a few runs, and may add another nozzle to the second stage, but I'll wait until I can raise boost to 25 psi to tinker with all that...
SMC does not recomend this, since aquamist lines are just plastic. I routed the lines to the (2) to the drivers side of the up pipe, to avoid the intense heat of the turbo.
To do this you will need to get a 1/8" male adapter to come off the SMC steel braided line. Go to a 'Y' connector, and run one line to the up pipe. The other side of the 'Y' feeds a solenoid that is hooked to a Hobbs switch. The output of that solenoid feeds to the up pipe.
Hooked the Hobbs switch to the vacuum line using windshield wiper line, and a 'Y' connector from a local auto parts store. The windshield washer hose is flimsly, and will collapse under vacuum, so I used only enough to make the splice. Located all that near the A/C condensor. Ran the lines around the battery, and across the top of the radiator. The up pipe was too thin to really tap well, so JB Weld got the call there.
Cost about $200 bucks to do this..
I'm going to switch to a 70-30 mix when I add the propane. (see the tech section for information on that) As important it is to cool the intake charge, I believe that some percentage of water is needed to carry the heat out of the combustion chamber after ignition.
I like the idea of redundancy if one system fails as well.
Anyway I'm betting this combination will work just fine.
I'll keep you all posted.
Also I am going to combine the propane kit from Power Imports with my SMC kit. I converted the SMC today to a 2 stage system today. I went with aquamist nozzles.
Using 2 nozzles (1 MM?) one comes on at 5 psi, the other at 15 psi. Due to the better atomization, I am running a 50-50 de-natured water mixture. Early results are promising. I can turn the pump speed all the way up, and am using exactly half the fliud as before when I used 100 percent de-natured.
(Thank you Steve Hill for stressing how important it is to vaporize the mix..)
I don't have many details to give yet. I can't locate my hi boost solenoid so all I can say is I'm at 20 psi, no knock, and pulling hard. No transitional knock either. Egt's were at 1550 at 85 mph. Maybe a little high, but I only had time for a few runs, and may add another nozzle to the second stage, but I'll wait until I can raise boost to 25 psi to tinker with all that...
SMC does not recomend this, since aquamist lines are just plastic. I routed the lines to the (2) to the drivers side of the up pipe, to avoid the intense heat of the turbo.
To do this you will need to get a 1/8" male adapter to come off the SMC steel braided line. Go to a 'Y' connector, and run one line to the up pipe. The other side of the 'Y' feeds a solenoid that is hooked to a Hobbs switch. The output of that solenoid feeds to the up pipe.
Hooked the Hobbs switch to the vacuum line using windshield wiper line, and a 'Y' connector from a local auto parts store. The windshield washer hose is flimsly, and will collapse under vacuum, so I used only enough to make the splice. Located all that near the A/C condensor. Ran the lines around the battery, and across the top of the radiator. The up pipe was too thin to really tap well, so JB Weld got the call there.
Cost about $200 bucks to do this..
I'm going to switch to a 70-30 mix when I add the propane. (see the tech section for information on that) As important it is to cool the intake charge, I believe that some percentage of water is needed to carry the heat out of the combustion chamber after ignition.
I like the idea of redundancy if one system fails as well.
Anyway I'm betting this combination will work just fine.
I'll keep you all posted.