Upgrade Opinions

[czimpel]

I just recently purchased my first GN in August, and have been spending the last 3 months reading and research how to go about doing upgrades this winter. I had a plan of attack, but now with all of the great Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals from the supporting vendors, I have been put into kind of an impulse situation.

So, my questions and thought are these...

Casper's 35% off has got me into thinking about the following:
• Repairing the stock RPM and Boost gauge for the tach function(still have an auto meter boost gauge).
• Was going to buy the FP Hotwire Kit, injector harness, and the cam sensor tool, but then came across the TR/GN Power Pack with many different items in one kit. I wasn't planning on spending that much, but it seems like a deal to good to pass up.
Includes:
102026 - Battery Negative Cable
102031 - Battery and Extension Cable
102036 - Fuel Injection Harness
102040 - Ground Stretcher Kit
102028 - Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade
102032 - Field Fix Harness
102027 - V-Plus Volt Booster

Question:
Is the TR/GN power pack worth it, or should I just purchase the FP Hotwire Kit and the Harness Separately?

Also, I have read many posts about different Hotwire Kits and most claim that the Racetronix is the best kit, how does Casper's compare?

The next items I am looking at purchasing are from Fullthrottlespeed.
• Scanmaster(No brainer as far as what I have read)
• Adjustable FP regulator
• Should I purchase a MAF Translator to upgrade to the LT1 MAF, or just leave the stock one for now since it works?

Future upgrades before winter is done will be:
• TT340 pump(Possible E85 later)
• Larger return line
• TT Chip and Injector package(looking at 80lb injectors for possible future use with E85)
• Duttwieler IC Neck
• Body mounts
• Box Rear LCAs

Questions:
Is the TT340 better than the Walbro 340 pump?
Should I buy the injectors and chip now, or wait until I decide which route I want to go?(I don't mind spending the money on another chip.

Future upgrades:
• Either E85 or
• Alky Control Injection
• HR Parts rear sway bar

Feel free to answer any or all, I'll take any info I can.

Thanks, Cory

 

[John Larkin]

If you're going E85 you'll need the volt booster for fuel delivery. TT340 pump is the better pump. If you get the chip and injectors now, with the other two items, your car will really wake up without much else than a FP regulator, a nice hotwire kit and the stainless upgrade-wired pump hanger from Racetronix. Of course the Scanmaster.

 

[blackgn1]

Start with a hotwire kit, scanmaster, chip and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. That gives you something do while you deide on your setup.

 

[SHADOWII]

It's a good idea to take advantage of the items you will need for your future build from casper's. John makes quality stuff. As I understand it, all but the harness' are on sale.
I don't believe it is worth repairing the stock rpm/boost gauge unless you are wanting them operational, as they are not that accurate especially if you will be shooting for max hp. I eliminated both on my dash when I purchased the white face overlay from trcustoms to match my phantom gauges, as I already have separate tach and boost gauges.
The minimum items you should purchase should be the f/pump, hot wire kit, adj. f/regulator, scan-master, and TT chip.
If you can afford it, I would add the p/logger, fuel rail gauge w/the 36" extention so you can monitor the fuel pressure when trouble shooting fuel delivery problems. A translator w/the ttchip will give you more tuneability w/fueling and timing. At least a 3" cold air kit w/k&n filter, although I would opt'd for the 4" and use reducers to the turbo, because you will be going bigger as you start togo faster. Aknock gauge or better an audible knock detector so you don't have to be observing the gauge while accellerating to see if you are having knock. An rjc power plate is also a good idea for equal distribution of a/f in the intake.
When you plan on upgrading your turbo/inj. combo, a stretch or front mount ic and good d/p and test pipe, w/internal gate or if you are shooting for the low 10's or faster, an external gate would be the recommendation. A larger t/b/dog house sized to your goals. And by this time you will have figured out you will need a new trans/convertor combo to match your turbo/inj. combo.
By now you're upt to choosing p/pheads, int. and cam! WOW.this got expensive!

 

[czimpel]

The minimum items you should purchase should be the f/pump, hot wire kit, adj. f/regulator, scan-master, and TT chip.
If you can afford it, I would add the p/logger, fuel rail gauge w/the 36" extention so you can monitor the fuel pressure when trouble shooting fuel delivery problems.

I already have an electric fuel psi gauge in the center console as well as a boost gauge. Do I dare go with the TT340 pump from Eric, not sure I want to run a new return line! Or should I buy a Racetronix sender pump combo?

Also, I was looking at the power logger, what will I gain by adding that? Does it give me real time symmetry of what is happening with a laptop hooked up?

An rjc power plate is also a good idea for equal distribution of a/f in the intake.
!

Funny you said this, I was just pricing one out when your post came through.

At least a 3" cold air kit w/k&n filter, although I would opt'd for the 4" and use reducers to the turbo, because you will be going bigger as you start togo faster.

I current have a 3" cold air kit with K&N. How soon should I be looking to move to the 4"? When I plan on upgrading the turbo?

Aknock gauge or better an audible knock detector so you don't have to be observing the gauge while accellerating to see if you are having knock. An rjc power plate is also a good idea for equal distribution of a/f in the intake.

I was thinking of going with an AEM WB gauge, should I also have a knock gauge? I have read a couple of posts saying if you have a WB you don't really need the knock gauge/detector.

When you plan on upgrading your turbo/inj. combo, a stretch or front mount ic and good d/p and test pipe, w/internal gate

So you are saying that I should stick with the stock injectors for now?

Thanks, Cory

 

[czimpel]

Just ordered the Scanmaster, Racetronix hot-wire kit, and adjustable FP regulator from fullthrottlespeed.com. Great prices and penny shipping, can't beat it!

 

[czimpel]

I don't believe it is worth repairing the stock rpm/boost gauge unless you are wanting them operational, as they are not that accurate especially if you will be shooting for max hp. I eliminated both on my dash when I purchased the white face overlay from trcustoms to match my phantom gauges, as I already have separate tach and boost gauges.

If I choose not to fix the stock tach, do I need the signal booster to connect any other tach to the ccci ignition? If so I will add that to my Casper's order.

 

[Phoneguy]

PM sent

Bryan

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

Once you get the basic upgrades, scanmaster, hotwire kit/fuel pump combo, adjustable fuel regulator. You'll get the most hp/$ ratio from a alky kit, most of us go for the king of the alky world, http://www.alkycontrol.com/. At this point your looking at injectors/TT alky chip/alky system..... as a package upgrade, just so you know, you always need a chip each time you change the fuel injector size.
Are you sure you want to upgade your cherry stock GN? The only reason I ask is because, GM engineers had the combination of parts right for the h/p level, as we turn up the power stuff will fail..... just a thought.

Chuck

 

[SHADOWII]

You haven't stated your goals for the car, 11's, 10's or 9's, etc. We all start out expecting to be happy w/low11's, but that soon turns into high 10's, mid 10"s, low10's, then 9's, etc. Each level of performance requires more mod's, as well as more knowledge to manage hp w/o breakage, or joining the infamous dotc club!(drive over the crank) That's catastrophic failure!
1/the racetronix kit, did it include the f/p? That's a good choice if you're not wanting to run the new ret'n line. The p/l can be read in real time from the s-master or lap-top. the important part is that it will record the "run" data and you won't have to monitor it while driving. All the data will be recorded for you to look at and make adjustments after the race, not during the race! There is a forum on the full throttle site that helps w/the set-up and any problems that arise as well as current down loads. ( I own all this stuff s-m, p/l, maft-pro, etc,etc, but I don't use it because I have the gen-7 in my car and I only bought this stuff to use on a project car.)
2/The rjc plate you can sometimes find in the "parts-for-sale" section or advertize in the "parts-wanted" section one and save a little bit from guys no loger needing them.
3/The 4" is a good idea if going for the low 11's/10's, which will require a turbo change. (The maft-pro is for guys that have a good handle on the tuning and it can be run with or w/o the use of the maf.)
4/I'm assuming you are referring to the w/band system that can be used by the gen-II or maft-pro to make corrections to the a/f ratio on the fly. You can also connect it to the p/l. Not just the gauge.(some have purchased the gauge thinking it was more than just the pretty lites.) I have the audible detector for added insurance and peace of mind. Nothing kills these engines faster than knock.
5/This is where your learning curve has to become accellerated. The stock inj. and turbo will be your insurance against catastrophic loss. Use this level to learn how to tune w/the worst case scenario being a loss of a head-gasket or a cracked header and not joining the dotc club. Whether it takes you a week or six months doesn't really matter as long as you get a handle on what the car likes and dislikes as all the engines are differant in what works. And the alchy can mask problems, so don't be too anxcious to add it until you have a working knowledge/experience w/your car. When in doubt ask questions. You will find you will learn something new every day.
6/ By this time you will have decided on the goal you want to set and you will have a better understanding of a good combo and won't be throwing money at a wrong decission (mis-match of parts) Turbo's, inj.'s, convertors, transmissions, broken parts, are expensive and most times can be avoided.

 

[czimpel]

Thanks a bunch everyone, this is exactly what I was looking for.

As far as my goals, to make people who ride in my car say "Holy **** this thing is fast, are you sure it's a V6?"

I've had fast street cars since I was 16 starting with an 82 S-10 which I started with a pretty stout 350, then moved to a 383 to make sure that nobody ever beat me at the drag strip from our group. Kind of a funny story, I didn't tell anyone I built a 383. When we got to the track I made my first run and shaved a full second off of my last years run. 11.83 @ 116 in 1/4.

Truck was sweet, lowered, Corvette Competition Yellow paint, narrowed 9" with moser axles.(Thank god my dad still has it, I tried to sell it!)

I love mods and making little changes to make things better. As I was growing up my dad(mechanic and owns his own shop) kept saying "can't you just leave it alone?" Answer was no! And this is why I always had the fastest street car. My dad's always had more and better parts, but I would kick his butt at the strip.