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Using too much fuel

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It may be worth dropping the fuel tank and looking at the sending unit and hoses connecting to the pump. I know a guy that had a split in the hose attached to the pump. It could be getting pressure but not volume.
 
Fuel pressure from his file is correct for his boost level...that's why Im thinking it's alky related.
The pressure may be good but duty cycle is too high could be a volume issue in the fuel system or off the pump itself.
Which in his area of say 64psi it can hide there
When psi goes up into the 70s and 80s is where you know if your pump is worth a shit lol
Unfortunately when things go wrong there things melt.
Visually inspecting each line and looking at alky pressure and testing his flow from the rail while the pump is activated would be the way to go here
It's cheaper than a motor 😎
 
Thanks, guys for the additional input and appreciate you looking at the log @SCOOBY DOO

I also looked at the lines and fittings while inspecting the nozzle flow. No visible leaks. Our 14 yr old daughter was kind enough to be my 'test button hitter'. When it was on the lift during the injector / pump swap, drip drip drip. One of the Alky lines coming off the pump was leaking. Paul replaced it with a new one from a Razor's kit he had on the shelf. No more drip drip drip.

Either way......I WILL GET THE ALKY TESTED. :)

@Pronto - Thanks. The lines coming off the tank are all new at this point but good suggestion either way. Tank was down a few weeks ago for the fuel line replacement.

I know I haven't posted much on the board since I've been a member and that's mostly because I never had issues like this before but this has been a good learning experience and I'm stepping out of my comfort zone a bit. Believe me, guys...I am not hiding anything and am giving you the info as I know it and as well as I understand it and again, I appreciate all of the input.
 
If Murph and Paul are helping you, listen to what they say. Those 2 guys are several pay scales above me. They don't know it but I'm quietly one of their biggest fans.
 
If Murph and Paul are helping you, listen to what they say. Those 2 guys are several pay scales above me. They don't know it but I'm quietly one of their biggest fans.
I'm right there with you.

Yes, I consider both of them friends and I have the utmost respect for and confidence in, what they tell me. Just figured I'd throw this out to the broader audience for more thoughts and ideas. This is what I meant about stepping outside of my comfort zone. Normally it's a text or call to those guys.

I pulled the plugs to check one more thing off the list. Autolite AR23s that look to be gapped at .030. Look to be running hot / lean?

If anyone has suggestions on different ones that might be better suited, I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts. I read a post that recommended a .028 gap so any thoughts there would be a plus.

Thanks...Dan
 

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No way to read those plugs for much of anything except color comparison.
Way too much time on them.
A fresh set gapped correctly is a start.
A WOT pull, pull them, cut the threaded part off and look at the base of the porcelain. That's the fuel ring. The burn back of the cad plating on the grd electrode will give a timing indication.
 
I'm right there with you.

Yes, I consider both of them friends and I have the utmost respect for and confidence in, what they tell me. Just figured I'd throw this out to the broader audience for more thoughts and ideas. This is what I meant about stepping outside of my comfort zone. Normally it's a text or call to those guys.

I pulled the plugs to check one more thing off the list. Autolite AR23s that look to be gapped at .030. Look to be running hot / lean?

If anyone has suggestions on different ones that might be better suited, I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts. I read a post that recommended a .028 gap so any thoughts there would be a plus.

Thanks...Dan
That's the wrong plug
Stop running projectile plugs
Run a non projectile plug gapped at 24
 
That's the wrong plug
Stop running projectile plugs
Run a non projectile plug gapped at 24
Don't think I can take credit for this one. They're still on the bench. Will pickup new ones today if available at one of the local stores.
 
I ran CR43TS from the dealer with RACE gas gapped at a tight .030. Vids to back my mouth up on my channel. I'd listen to Mr Spool/Murph/Paul for plugs for alky. I was a race gas guy.
 
Murph suggested Autolite Race plugs but is out of pocket and doesn't know specific part#. I'm seeing AR3933 and 3934s being used but will confirm. Thx
 
I was a race gas guy.
Me too. 😁
We mixed our own. Always got comments to the effect "damn that exh stinks"!
When running the jr fuel car, we got weird looks when mixing a batch while wearing a rubber apron, gloves and a face shield.o_O
We also had a source for 116 No led. Now that shit would make your kids born naked!:LOL:
 
Me too. 😁
We mixed our own. Always got comments to the effect "damn that exh stinks"!
When running the jr fuel car, we got weird looks when mixing a batch while wearing a rubber apron, gloves and a face shield.o_O
We also had a source for 116 No led. Now that shit would make your kids born naked!:LOL:
Ya' never wanna be downwind of race gas. I ran 110-112 with Erics 112 race chip. 28/26 timing for default. I'd run 34-36 for low gear timing.
 
I've run UR5s and now run UR6s at 24. Those are projected tip. I've run the YR5s and saw no difference. I like the NGKs. Maybe at some point I'll try the BR6S.
 
I run the NGK YR5 non projected tip spark plugs gapped at a tight 0.030” with excellent results
 
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