Valve cover gaskets
- Thread starter belsie
- Start date
I bought these, haven't put them on yet. Cork ones don't seem to work for me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390897321135?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
BARRACUDA1968
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2011
I use felpro cork. No leaks
standupjskiguy
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2009
I don't know what gasket we have on our 85, looks like cork.
However, it seems to have a problem of the rear valve cover bolts getting loose and allowing the cover to come loose and leak.
I just put some Locktite blue on em & tightened them not long ago. They have loosened up again and leak oil off the back
of the engine and on the exhaust crossover pipe. This time I tried drilling through the thread of one bolt and stuffed some nylon grass trimmer cord into it. Sort of like a locking screw. I'm hoping this works. You can't put a lockwasher under the head because there is a pressed on flat washer under the head then there is a bolt gasket under that.
However, it seems to have a problem of the rear valve cover bolts getting loose and allowing the cover to come loose and leak.
I just put some Locktite blue on em & tightened them not long ago. They have loosened up again and leak oil off the back
of the engine and on the exhaust crossover pipe. This time I tried drilling through the thread of one bolt and stuffed some nylon grass trimmer cord into it. Sort of like a locking screw. I'm hoping this works. You can't put a lockwasher under the head because there is a pressed on flat washer under the head then there is a bolt gasket under that.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
I didn't read your link before I posted , that's what I use and works great !!
I bought a set of ROL brand cork valve cover gaskets last month off ebay for $5.35 shipped. I use the ROL brand cork gasket for the oil pan also. The gaskets are fairly thick and seem to work well without any leaks. The main thing is to make sure everything is clean and oil free and not to over torque them during installation,and i recheck them to ensure the bolts are still tight after the engine has been ran a few times.
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
My trick to stop leaking valve covers has worked for years now.
Purchase 2 sets of cork Felpro valve covers. Find a nice flat place to work. Take your gasket, lay it flat on some news paper and dampen one side with a little water on a sponge. Spread GORILLA GLUE all over it nice and smooth with your finger. Now cut your finger off because it's the only way to remove the Gorilla Glue. After that. lay the other gasket on top. You may have to use pins or thumb tacks to keep it from sliding around, bowing up and to keep it lined up. Tape news paper over a flat piece of wood and slide that over the gaskets while removing the pins if you used them. lay the wood on and pile a bunch of weight on it. And walk away for a day......with 2 less fingers.
If you don't use the news paper, when the glue bubbles out, it will stick to both surfaces and when you take the weight off you may need to tare everything apart to separate them. Now, a day later, peal and rip the news paper away carefully and trim the excess glue off with an Exsacto knife. A bench grinder comes in handy to buff off around the edges a bit. The glued gaskets have more rigidity then if you used RTV and also will never slide out from each other when putting them on or torquing them down. They will never leak from between them and the glue will never break down..........hence removing your fingers.
I like to glue them down to the head first and let them sit for an hour or so because my heads are clearanced heavily into the gasket area for the pushrods. I also have to cut deep notches in the gasket quite a lot. I don't want them to move at all and be rubbed by the pushrods. I also spread RTV on the top of the gasket before I put on the valve cover.
I use studs instead of bolts. Just some stainless threaded rod cut to length with nuts and washers. I thread the stud in by hand as far as it will go. Then use the nut to squeeze the covers down nice and snug. I know that I won't strip my aluminum heads if I periodically decide to give them a half a turn now and then. Also with the added thickness of 2 gaskets I have plenty of room to re-torque them if they leak without bottoming out the valve cover on the head.
I may be crazy going through all this trouble. But the results for me are worth it. See below. No leaks, no oil, no scuzz.
Purchase 2 sets of cork Felpro valve covers. Find a nice flat place to work. Take your gasket, lay it flat on some news paper and dampen one side with a little water on a sponge. Spread GORILLA GLUE all over it nice and smooth with your finger. Now cut your finger off because it's the only way to remove the Gorilla Glue. After that. lay the other gasket on top. You may have to use pins or thumb tacks to keep it from sliding around, bowing up and to keep it lined up. Tape news paper over a flat piece of wood and slide that over the gaskets while removing the pins if you used them. lay the wood on and pile a bunch of weight on it. And walk away for a day......with 2 less fingers.
If you don't use the news paper, when the glue bubbles out, it will stick to both surfaces and when you take the weight off you may need to tare everything apart to separate them. Now, a day later, peal and rip the news paper away carefully and trim the excess glue off with an Exsacto knife. A bench grinder comes in handy to buff off around the edges a bit. The glued gaskets have more rigidity then if you used RTV and also will never slide out from each other when putting them on or torquing them down. They will never leak from between them and the glue will never break down..........hence removing your fingers.
I like to glue them down to the head first and let them sit for an hour or so because my heads are clearanced heavily into the gasket area for the pushrods. I also have to cut deep notches in the gasket quite a lot. I don't want them to move at all and be rubbed by the pushrods. I also spread RTV on the top of the gasket before I put on the valve cover.
I use studs instead of bolts. Just some stainless threaded rod cut to length with nuts and washers. I thread the stud in by hand as far as it will go. Then use the nut to squeeze the covers down nice and snug. I know that I won't strip my aluminum heads if I periodically decide to give them a half a turn now and then. Also with the added thickness of 2 gaskets I have plenty of room to re-torque them if they leak without bottoming out the valve cover on the head.
I may be crazy going through all this trouble. But the results for me are worth it. See below. No leaks, no oil, no scuzz.
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
Thank you. For most board members pictures of my motor are played out by now. But I always manage to squeeze one in to show off a bit now and then.
Anyway. I am a sicko nut when it comes to dealing with leaks. Unfortunately, even I can't seem to get them all. I myself believe I caused the other one that's bothering me right now. This one I'll save for another thread.
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
How thick are they? I'm wondering if I have been stacking up the thin ones or the thick ones. I may be using them already. If not, I been cutting off fingers for years now for no reason. All I got left is a pinkie
NY Twin Turbo
All the good stuff.....Times 2.
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2014
Those didn't work for me. Maybe it's because of my Champion heads and valve covers. They leaked like there was almost no gasket at all.
wantattype2
Member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
I have had good luck with the Cometic valve cover gaskets made of a hard black material that doesn't squeeze out. I just glue them to the valve cover with the right stuff sealer.
wantattype2
Member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
Yes just seal them to the valve cover so when you want to change them your not scrapping the old gaskets & sealer into the motor[/QUOTE]
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