Valve Cover to Turbo Pipe

ravege

Active Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
What are people doing for this when they have a turbo without a bell, i.e., the maf hose clamps direct to the compressor housing?
 
drilled a hole in the MAF pipe (pre turbo) & installed rubber engine filter 90deg elbow (used on passenger side valve cover factory breather). Valve covers vented via Metco -10AN fitting, push fit 90deg elbow & 5/8" heater hose connecting into the 90deg elbow connected in MAF pipe.
 

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Except this is California :oops: Previous owner got it passed without it, but I may not be so lucky or well connected ;)

Thanks Kwik, good stuff there.
 
This pipe is very much an emission item and will fail the visual inspection if they check, or know anything about turbo cars. :eek:

The crankcase pressure and fumes are evacuated through this pipe to the low pressure intake to be re-burned same as the PCV line.

Of course the stock PCV does not vent when in boost, so fumes are then forced out the breathers if this line is not in place, which is why so many turbo Buicks leak oil - pressure and fumes want out! :)
 
This pipe is very much an emission item and will fail the visual inspection if they check, or know anything about turbo cars. :eek:

The crankcase pressure and fumes are evacuated through this pipe to the low pressure intake to be re-burned same as the PCV line.

Of course the stock PCV does not vent when in boost, so fumes are then forced out the breathers if this line is not in place, which is why so many turbo Buicks leak oil - pressure and fumes want out! :)

Nick: Do you have a recommended solution for handling the pressure and fumes that doesn't break the bank?
 
There are a few methods to vent the crankcase pressure, and the most simple one is to run a hose from the PCV to the atmosphere like was done on vehicles up until the mid-1960's. :)

You could also terminate this line into a canister/accumulator to contain the oil from the crankcase vapors.

Since the PCV line is no longer connected to the intake, it will always vent since there is no boost pressure to close the needle valve in the PCV.

Other owners have used lines from the valve covers instead of the PCV to an accumulator to provide a vent for crankcase pressure and it will contain the oil that blows out with the vapor.

What I do not like about that method is that there is LOTS of oil blowing around the springs and rockers at RPM and more oil will go out.

The PCV is shielded somewhat from oil if a stock valley pan intake gasket is used. In TR engines we build without a stock valley pan, we weld a baffle over the PCV on the under side of the intake to block as much oil as possible from being blow out.

I wonder how many members actually know what PCV stands for, or the term for device on the early vehicles before the PCV was used? ;)
 
There are a few methods to vent the crankcase pressure, and the most simple one is to run a hose from the PCV to the atmosphere like was done on vehicles up until the mid-1960's. :)

You could also terminate this line into a canister/accumulator to contain the oil from the crankcase vapors.

Since the PCV line is no longer connected to the intake, it will always vent since there is no boost pressure to close the needle valve in the PCV.

Other owners have used lines from the valve covers instead of the PCV to an accumulator to provide a vent for crankcase pressure and it will contain the oil that blows out with the vapor.

What I do not like about that method is that there is LOTS of oil blowing around the springs and rockers at RPM and more oil will go out.

The PCV is shielded somewhat from oil if a stock valley pan intake gasket is used. In TR engines we build without a stock valley pan, we weld a baffle over the PCV on the under side of the intake to block as much oil as possible from being blow out.

I wonder how many members actually know what PCV stands for, or the term for device on the early vehicles before the PCV was used? ;)

Thanks for this information. Will see what I can get done to keep my "Houdini oil" from escaping.
 
Lol very cool Nick!

I just finished up rebuilding a couple of early 327s and they all had that tube at the back of the block. I plug them and stick the pcv in its place. Always made me wonder if that tube would just piss all over the road as the car ran lol....

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Lol very cool Nick!

I just finished up rebuilding a couple of early 327s and they all had that tube at the back of the block. I plug them and stick the pcv in its place. Always made me wonder if that tube would just piss all over the road as the car ran lol....

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They do drip a little from the crank case vapors but not much since the motors did not see boost!
I still have one on my 58 348 BelAir!
 
Can you run tubes from the valve covers to an oil separator that acts like a catch can but then you can route the vented pipe to the air intake pipe to suck out the pressure but not oil.
 
Can you run tubes from the valve covers to an oil separator that acts like a catch can but then you can route the vented pipe to the air intake pipe to suck out the pressure but not oil.

Yes, it is a more efficient method, but it is a mass of hoses to add to a TR.
 
Yes, it is a more efficient method, but it is a mass of hoses to add to a TR.
Do catch cans in general have a vent tube that you can pipe to the intake pipe?

Why do you get crankcase pressure, is it from blow by from the boost going past the rings?
 
Boosted cars have more crank case pressure under boost conditions. You can find catch cans with the second hose connection on eBay and Amazon.
 
My driver valve cover has a breather but my passenger doesnt, is this a concern or would one side having the breather be enough? I am thinking of doing the catch can and piping it to the intake, or a pump.
 
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