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Volt Booster bad for Alky kits?

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88ZNX

Let loose the Boost!!
Joined
Nov 4, 2004
Messages
2,025
I keep hearing that Its best to take the volt boosters off of an Alky car. Does that go got Razor's kit & SMC? I run SMC and a volt booster and never have had probs. But I've heard otherwise about Razors kit. I hear it's suppose to mess up the pump speed? Anything else?

Thanks
Jason
 
More volts equals more alky. Major drawback would be slower spooling. I know of one really fast alky car that has one, so I know it can be done.
I have a vb in my toolbox I may try in the future when I'm short on fuel.
 
i think Razor and many others do NOT approve of volt boosters.... i am sure he will chime in.
 
I have run with and without both with good results. After being on for about a year, the volt booster fried my alternator.

I now run without vb.

My $.02

Rick
 
Ok is a volt booster and a throttle enhancer the same thing?
 
it is harder to tune because of the greater voltage, greater fuel, and greater alky injected. tends to nose over and loss of performance. not to mention they will eat your alternator
 
There are a few kinds of volt boosters. One is activated by a hobbs style switch, the other is activated based on TPS.

The hobbs switch style at 10 PSI activates. What happens is the kit activates at 6-7 PSI.. as the boost increases.. all of a sudden the voltage on the car at 10 PSI swings to 16v.. the alky pump increases its delivery rate.. and the air fuel on the car drops. I guess you can always dial down the kit, but it will still cuase an af issue at 10 PSI.

My own car picked up .2 when I took my hobbs style VB off. Results may vary.

As far as the Alkycontrol kit.. no issues voltage wise whether your at 10 or 16volts.

HTH
 
There are a few kinds of volt boosters. One is activated by a hobbs style switch, the other is activated based on TPS.

The hobbs switch style at 10 PSI activates. What happens is the kit activates at 6-7 PSI.. as the boost increases.. all of a sudden the voltage on the car at 10 PSI swings to 16v.. the alky pump increases its delivery rate.. and the air fuel on the car drops. I guess you can always dial down the kit, but it will still cuase an af issue at 10 PSI.

My own car picked up .2 when I took my hobbs style VB off. Results may vary.

As far as the Alkycontrol kit.. no issues voltage wise whether your at 10 or 16volts.

HTH


Wow im glad i came across this thread. Could this possibly be my problem. I put a brand new pump and Volt booster on the car. Went out Ran 106 MPH in the 1/8th on 19 lbs of boost, low timing. then once i get past the 1/8 a lil bit the car would just nose over. Yes i know I need to record the run :D But my damn PL only works about, well actually it doesnt work at all. (Thats another story). I Shut the alchy off and made a pass on 12-13 lbs on 93 and the car seems to run fine? Am i getting to much fuel /Alchy with dual nozzle and volt booster at 19-20lbs:rolleyes:
 
Wow im glad i came across this thread. Could this possibly be my problem. I put a brand new pump and Volt booster on the car. Went out Ran 106 MPH in the 1/8th on 19 lbs of boost, low timing. then once i get past the 1/8 a lil bit the car would just nose over. Yes i know I need to record the run :D But my damn PL only works about, well actually it doesnt work at all. (Thats another story). I Shut the alchy off and made a pass on 12-13 lbs on 93 and the car seems to run fine? Am i getting to much fuel /Alchy with dual nozzle and volt booster at 19-20lbs:rolleyes:

You will know when you get to data log it. We can answer that.
 
I just removed my Hobbs type tonight.
I picked it up used for $10 and installed it a last month as a back-up/safe guard when I found my old Walbro fuel pump was lagging, but now have a new reds XP pump.

I have not been able to get my tune 100% right.....car seems to dog out a bit at the top...even seems like it hesitates...I'll see if removing this VoltBooster helps.

Seems like TurboTweak also does not favor using them if a high volume hotwired pump is already in use.
 
Seems like TurboTweak also does not favor using them if a high volume hotwired pump is already in use.

The chip doesnt care if the pump is hot wired or not as the regulator returns excess fuel. The alky systems dont have a return, so higher voltages can create the issue this thread is about. Some cars yes.. some no.

Like BBQ sauce.. some get heartburn.. some dont ;)
 
The problem is more "pronounced" if the car has no ability to tune itself with a wideband going down the track.

If you have WOT 02 compensation.... then the extra volts doesn't matter as much.... because... when she starts to go rich.... the WB control will back off a little.

On a regular chip car... no WB 02 control.... nothing controls the AFR at WOT other than what is programmed in the chip... so when the volt booster kicks in..... she is going to go fat...... if you tune for that.... it will be too lean at times when the vb isn't "turned on".

IMHO... it is a bandaid. It works..... but at the expense of alternators.... the tuneup.... etc.
 
I guess I need to emphasize (IMHO) how dangerous one is on a (non-WB controlled) chip car.... with alky.....

Example: You tune your (non-WB controlled chip) 10 sec car to run pump gas... alky.... 25 psi boost.... 10.8 AFR at WOT... on 23 deg timing in high gear....tuned using the VB.... 16V at WOT....... now imagine the VB quitting during a run...or frying the alternator....and the voltage drops from 15.8V to 12.1V...... the alky pump automatically has a significantly reduced output....because your car can't compensate at WOT based on a WB o2...... the AFR goes to 12.8:1 ....... at 1100 ft downtrack.....

It could be as bad as "get-the-dustpan" to pick up the remaining parts of your engine off the track.

At minimum.... you somehow sense something is wrong and you back out of it.....before it melts the pistons.

Anybody want to test my "theory"? :confused:
 
Thats when the "Change Engine" lamp illuminates :D



And change alternator ;)
 
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