Was my TE44 not balanced properly?

[22lbChevelle]

I bought this (I think used) turbo from Cotton's a little less than a year ago. I popped a head gasket recently and while repairing that, I noticed some nice marks on the compressor housing where it looks like the wheel is vibrating around causing little nicks. What do y'all recommend?

 

[trailinjake]

PM Bison. I'm sure he can either repair or replace housing and wheel along with the center and you will be good to go.

 

[The Radius Kid]

If the only damage that exists is what I'm seeing there,I'm betting the thing can be cleaned up with a little 1,500 -2,000 or so grit paper and new bush and balance check of the center section.
I wouldn't loose any sleep over what I'm seeing there.
The journals on the turbine shaft will be the real tell.

 

[bison]

Looks like a rub mark from a prior problem. Remove the housing and post pics of the compressor wheel. If the comp wheel looks good I wouldnt worry about it.

 

[TurboBob]

I agree, if the wheel were hitting, the blades would be curled or at least have a burr on them.

If the shaft has very little wobble, and no in-out play then I'm pretty sure you're fine.

Bob

 

[The Radius Kid]

I agree, if the wheel were hitting, the blades would be curled or at least have a burr on them.

If the shaft has very little wobble, and no in-out play then I'm pretty sure you're fine.

Bob

I wouldn't go that far.
Sometimes the wheels can rub without any noticable damage that can be seen without pulling both housings.
I do agree on checking the play,but the safest bet here is to get the center section checked,right down to the bushings.

 

[TurboBob]

Valid points. I think that those marks on the compressor housing could probably not be made by the wheel without seeing evidence on the wheel even from the angle of the OP's pics.

Certainly removing the housing(s) would be more definitive, along with indicating any radial and axial play.

At this point, we don't know how comfortable the OP is tearing down the turbo, and removing the turbine housing improperly can ruin the turbo.

So, in short, from what we can see its probably ok, but you really need to dig deeper to be sure.

B

 

[The Radius Kid]

Valid points. I think that those marks on the compressor housing could probably not be made by the wheel without seeing evidence on the wheel even from the angle of the OP's pics.

Certainly removing the housing(s) would be more definitive, along with indicating any radial and axial play.

At this point, we don't know how comfortable the OP is tearing down the turbo, and removing the turbine housing improperly can ruin the turbo.

So, in short, from what we can see its probably ok, but you really need to dig deeper to be sure.

B

I do agree with Bison.
It does look like previous damage - kinda' what I was thinking,but you can never be too sure.
As for internal damage,it can be there on the journals and you won't know it.
That's what happened to the turbo I did for Sherm'.
I pulled the housings after the H/G lifted slightly and low and behold the exhaust wheel had just kissed the housing and left a *tick* of pickup behind.
I dressed it up with some one grit paper [wheel and housing],got the center section balance rechecked by Jimmy,new bushings and it was good to go.
*If* I'd have left it alone,no prizes for guessing what probably would have happened.
There was black crap in the center section bushings as well when it was torn down for the check the second time.

 

[bison]

I do agree with Bison.
It does look like previous damage - kinda' what I was thinking,but you can never be too sure.
As for internal damage,it can be there on the journals and you won't know it.
That's what happened to the turbo I did for Sherm'.
I pulled the housings after the H/G lifted slightly and low and behold the exhaust wheel had just kissed the housing and left a *tick* of pickup behind.
I dressed it up with some one grit paper [wheel and housing],got the center section balance rechecked by Jimmy,new bushings and it was good to go.
*If* I'd have left it alone,no prizes for guessing what probably would have happened.
There was black crap in the center section bushings as well when it was torn down for the check the second time.

I go way beyond that with the rotating assembly. The shaft needs to be measured very accurately and checked for straightness. The bearing bores need to be inspected. The housing is often replaced. The oiling needs to be looked at closely. The sealing ring area on the turbine is often out of spec if there was a prior thrust issue. Seal plates need to be repaired or replaced at times. Most don't have the tools to properly measure these things or access to a machine shop to fix them. You need a tenths indicator minimum for checking the shaft. All the carbonized oil needs to be removed from the shaft. This usually required media blasting. Sometimes vsr balancing is required also.

 

[bison]

I do agree with Bison.
It does look like previous damage - kinda' what I was thinking,but you can never be too sure.
As for internal damage,it can be there on the journals and you won't know it.
That's what happened to the turbo I did for Sherm'.
I pulled the housings after the H/G lifted slightly and low and behold the exhaust wheel had just kissed the housing and left a *tick* of pickup behind.
I dressed it up with some one grit paper [wheel and housing],got the center section balance rechecked by Jimmy,new bushings and it was good to go.
*If* I'd have left it alone,no prizes for guessing what probably would have happened.
There was black crap in the center section bushings as well when it was torn down for the check the second time.

I go way beyond that with the rotating assembly. The shaft needs to be measured very accurately and checked for straightness. The bearing bores need to be inspected. The housing is often replaced. The oiling needs to be looked at closely. The sealing ring area on the turbine is often out of spec if there was a prior thrust issue. Seal plates need to be repaired or replaced at times. Most don't have the tools to properly measure these things or access to a machine shop to fix them. You need a tenths indicator minimum for checking the shaft. All the carbonized oil needs to be removed from the shaft. This usually required media blasting. Sometimes vsr balancing is required also.

 

[22lbChevelle]

Hey thanks for the replies.

First I wanted to say I remembered this turbo was not from Cotton's shop. That one was a TA49 for my Dad's car.

I was able to find a picture of the turbo before I installed it back in May 2011. I was able to zoom in and see the same marks!! Since I have been running this turbo for more than a year, and the fact that I can't feel any axial or radial play I think it is probably fine.


Not sure if you guys will be able to zoom into this picture, but this is the one that I was able to see the marks.

 

[The Radius Kid]

I go way beyond that with the rotating assembly. The shaft needs to be measured very accurately and checked for straightness. The bearing bores need to be inspected. The housing is often replaced. The oiling needs to be looked at closely. The sealing ring area on the turbine is often out of spec if there was a prior thrust issue. Seal plates need to be repaired or replaced at times. Most don't have the tools to properly measure these things or access to a machine shop to fix them. You need a tenths indicator minimum for checking the shaft. All the carbonized oil needs to be removed from the shaft. This usually required media blasting. Sometimes vsr balancing is required also.

If you have the tools and facilities available,that's usually a good list to follow.
If not,get it checked by a pro.