WB bung Install

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TurboTdr3.8

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2013
Messages
1,230
Can you install and weld the wb bung while the dp is still on the car , would it be advisable to unplug the computer while welding or is it best to take dp off and do it on the bench .
 
I did mine on the car and didn't unbolt anything.

It was a little difficult getting my tig torch on top of the bung [I made sure the sensor wouldn't be aimed downward] so plan it out and make sure you can get a complete weld around the bung to prevent leaks.

If you're D/P is stainless make sure you have a good drill bit
 
Depends on your welding skill and placement of the bung. On mine I took it out and did it. For me it was a no brainer since I have a THDP and it takes seconds to 'unscrew' it out.
 
If you don't want to take the down pipe out, you could use the strap, that goes around the pipe. You still have to use a step drill. 7/8" dia. But that is much shorter then a normal drill bit. Would be easy to get in there. AME and others sell the strap, I know of people that have done it this way and have no leaks.
 
Hey earl, where did you locate the bung on your THDP? I'm thinking of relocating mine as I think it is too far down the pipe. It's down fairly close to my test pipe near the tranny.
 
I got under my car with the sensor and picked out a spot just before the final bend. It points at the block so the wire wouldn't be close to anything bad. Once I had the spot marked I popped the DP out and drilled it. PLX wanted it laid over at a 15* angle so I stuck a ratchet handle in the hole and laid it over a little.
Since my sensor is so close to the slip joint at the dump I put a stainless band clamp on there so it wouldn't get false lean readings at low flow.
 
I'm thinking of relocating mine as I think it is too far down the pipe. It's down fairly close to my test pipe near the tranny.

It sounds like it's where it needs to be; depending on who mfg. yours, the generally accepted safe distance is 18/24" from the turbo.
 
Mines in the test pipe. It read the exact same further up the pipe closer to the turbo.
 
If you decide to do it on the car, remove battery cables and put your weld ground as close to the work as possible.
 
If it's not a stock pipe, just pull it out, it'll be easier. Mark it before pulling out so you don't put it into the heater box or something.
 
If you don't want to take the down pipe out, you could use the strap, that goes around the pipe. You still have to use a step drill. 7/8" dia. But that is much shorter then a normal drill bit. Would be easy to get in there. AME and others sell the strap, I know of people that have done it this way and have no leaks.
What is AME and how does the strap work? Google didn't yield any results.
 
Odds are it's a hose clamp with a threaded boss on it. My old GP racebike has a smaller versions to hold in EGT probes. They worked just fine, but didn't look as 'finished' as an actual welded bung would.
 
What is AME and how does the strap work? Google didn't yield any results.

Sorry got my letters mixup AEM, go to the web site look up any air/fuel gauge you will see it at the bottom of page. It also has a detail how to. Cost is $41.00
 
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