Weird alky problem...


I think, therefore I am??
May 24, 2001
Hi Guys and Girls,

Well, after installing my SMC controller/nozzles and new pump in the GN, my system is acting "funny". It acts as thought it doesn't even work the first couple of times I get on it. I get like 30 degrees knock retard! Then, after one or two times, it's fine! Or, if I eaze into it rather than floor it, it seems to be okay. I have played with/checked the following: I'm running 20-21 psi boost (same as before), have changed the trigger point and the pump flow rate up and/or down, tested the pump check valve, checked the operation of the whole system (works with test button and when triggered with Mityvac at the boost source), and I have inline gauges which tell me I am injecting more alky in my stock turbo/IC GN than in my TA61/MJ 17 row IC WE4! Any thoughts? Thanks!

just curious what u used on the WE4 to get the 12.9? slicks, chip, fuel pump? i need a simple as hell combo...just wondering what works the easiest without tearing the car apart. thanks!!
All you really need to run a 12.9 is a fuel pump, boost at about 21 lbs, race gas, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and a decent launch of around 2.0 and you should be able to hit a 12 if everything is running good. Make sure you have some sort of scantool to do this though. Oh, and don't forget the paperclip trick!
Jay, you may be subject to transitional "burst" knock. It happens, more or less, to many of us w-a users. It has been your basic inscrutable phenomenon I've been chasing for years.
Unless you have some mechanical problem, my best guess is I _think_ we out-run the octane before enough w-a is available.
Are you using a standard chipset? If you have a ME or Translator+ you can try richening up your spool-up. A loose converter will help as will a bigger turbo.
Another trick is to use a smaller pre-jet controlled via the tps. I have worked with John Spina to develop a device for this. THe idea is to anticipate wot and start the fluid sooner.
I have not yet been able to completely stop this pesky phenomenon, but I have been able to reduce it to a "sometimes" situation, and even then usually a few degrees. But as always, YMMV <G> good luck.
Hi Steve,

I have dealt with the "transitional" knock... isn't it fun?! But this is different. It doesn't go away once it starts knocking, even though the alky seems to be functioning fine. 'Bout the third time at WOT, everything is status quo as far as alky goes!

I'm beginning to wonder if it IS something else... I guess I better go back to the basics and start from there!

Thanks for the help, though!


The WE4 had the following on it's 12.9 run: 93 chip, blue top inj., K&N, ported stock turbo, ported elbow (stock DP), ported IC neck (stock), Borla exhaust with no cat, Xylene/93 octane mix in tank and 21psi boost, or so. Of course, it has the basics: adjustable wastegate, boost gauge, adj. fuel reg., fuel psi gauge, and an upgraded pump. Obviously, a good state of tune is necessary to maximize any combo.

Not all the above is "necessary" to go 12s, but in my case I was running on BFG Radial TAs, so the few extra HP didn't hurt! 60' was a 1.99, so with slicks, it shoulda/woulda/coulda gone a few tenths faster. BTW, that was the only pass in the 12s that day... suffice it to say, Radial TAs aren't very "consistent" on a car with Bilstein shocks! ;)

The GN in my sig had only a few more things than that and it surprised the hell out of me with it's performance! It's secret to hooking up on the SAME Radial TAs is very worn out shocks =consistent 12.6-12.7s at 110-111.

Read the "recipes" on if you haven't already. All the info you need is right there!
Don't really know how the SMC kit is plumbed but your problem sounds similar to one I struggled with a while back when my pump was loosing its prime. The check valve inside the pump of mine was not sealing (northern hydraulics). This caused a delay in reaching full spray pattern and pressure. Don't know if this could happen with the SMC kit but you might look into it. Good luck. BTW with 2 nozzles and set points the transitional knock is a bit easier to control than if you are not turning the flow on at all until you reach high boost.
Thanks for the input, guys! I found that one of the JB Weld "seals" around a nozzle had kinda come loose. I chipped it off, cleaned it up and re-did it just today. Don't know what effect other than a vacuum/boost leak this would have, though. Took one quick WOT test run for a couple of hundred yards and only got 7 degrees (which usually drops the longer I stay in it--transitional knock, I'd guess). Didn't have time for more testing, but will let you know! Thanks again!