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Went to dyno, Need advice for tuning!

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If you got to the Bud show I can show you the Powerlogger and how it works.
 
I'm still confused on how lowering boost will help me?
The chip is made for 25+ psi and 23-21 Degrees timing. Fuel is adjustable +20% to -20% WOT and timing is adjustable -9 to +9 degrees by chip. I'm running to 5800rpms, power was peaking at 5500rpms. I have a direct scan I bought used but get "hardware timeout error" so I haven't figured that out yet. I have the dyno again this Sat. If I can't get the directscan working the powerlogger looks good and will work with a modern laptop.
 
I don't think lowering the boost is going to change the ratio, lowering (slowly) the WOT fuel will. The alky changes your target af ratio to the "richer" 10.8 area. If you were using race fuel that would way too rich.
 
Your base pressure, line off, was too high at 47psi which attributed to your rich WOT readings. 43 line off is typical to how TT calibrates the chip and your idle BLM of 129 is good.

Lower the tip in alky back to around 8psi and see what the wideband says on the street with a real load. I didn't see what type of gas you're running to get 25psi with 23 degrees timing but if it's 93, I think you're going to see knock over a 11:1 ratio. Rich tunes help cool the combustion and suppress knock but give up HP/TQ at a certain point.

BTW, dyno's cause vehicles to go rich about .5 in the AF/R so don't be alarmed if your street AF/R reading and dyno reading are not the same.
 
BTW, dyno's cause vehicles to go rich about .5 in the AF/R so don't be alarmed if your street AF/R reading and dyno reading are not the same.

I've heard that before. What causes that?
 
I've heard that before. What causes that?

I believe it has to do with the MAF and how power enrichment is handled. This is Buick only curse. This is why these cars dont Dyno well.. My own cars I have tweaked them at the track playing with timing and airfuel.. then putting them on a dyno and run like crap.
 
Is that why I've seen several TBs get hurt on the dyno? I'm afraid to dyno mine after seeing bad things happen at "dyno days".
 
I believe it has to do with the MAF and how power enrichment is handled. This is Buick only curse. This is why these cars dont Dyno well.. My own cars I have tweaked them at the track playing with timing and airfuel.. then putting them on a dyno and run like crap.

So with a DFI or FAST the "issue" goes away?
 
if i understand the original post this is a not a stock motor so i don't understand the discussion about the stock headgaskets.any tuner that understands the 2 different fuels will not recommend a 11.5 afr regardless of which motor or headgaskets.i would not start tuning at 25psi, there just is no margin for error,drop the boost, pull some timing, and work your way up.
 
if i understand the original post this is a not a stock motor so i don't understand the discussion about the stock headgaskets.any tuner that understands the 2 different fuels will not recommend a 11.5 afr regardless of which motor or headgaskets.i would not start tuning at 25psi, there just is no margin for error,drop the boost, pull some timing, and work your way up.

I started at 18psi no knock, 02 in 800s, I raised boost a pound at a time to get to 25psi,still no knock, o2 in 800s. I planned next to Adjusted fuel down to match boost. Would this be the correct way to tune?
I went back to the dyno last Sat. With fuel pressure at 42psi afr was 10-1. I noticed my #2 plug looks alot leaner than the other 5. This is where I stop since the wideband can't read individual cylinders. Once I figure this out, I'll look to get a powerlogger and wideband. Then some track time.
 
if i understand the original post this is a not a stock motor so i don't understand the discussion about the stock headgaskets.any tuner that understands the 2 different fuels will not recommend a 11.5 afr regardless of which motor or headgaskets.i would not start tuning at 25psi, there just is no margin for error,drop the boost, pull some timing, and work your way up.

I started at 18psi no knock, 02 in 800s, I raised boost a pound at a time to get to 25psi,still no knock, o2 in 800s. I planned next to Adjusted fuel down to match boost. Would this be the correct way to tune?
I went back to the dyno last Sat. With fuel pressure at 42psi afr was 10-1. I noticed my #2 plug looks alot leaner than the other 5. This is where I stop since the wideband can't read individual cylinders. Once I figure this out, I'll look to get a powerlogger and wideband. Then some track time. Power now is 452rwhp.
 
Did you spend any time getting the Direct Scan hooked up?

Often times that hardware error is a dirty PC board end where the connector goes over it must be spotless to work properly and inserted the proper amount not too far or not far enough can be a problem.

Should only take an hour or two to get that working unless there's a serious problem with it, which is very rare.

It will give you more data, but of course won't fix one lean cylinder. :frown:

Maybe ohm out the harness and connector for that cylinder to make sure the proper voltage is there and the ground signal is getting there from the ECM.

I'd double check that dyno. wideband against another for sure, 10-1 should still be rich if accurate data.

Diagnostic tuning stuff you need such as your own wideband is way less $$$ than a headgasket job.
 
Powerplate is your friend, I'd snag one to help equal air distribution. Another thing you could be seeing is maybe that injector is not as free flowing as the others, hopefully not. I used to get my injectors flowed before I'd strap that in the manifold for this very reason, after 2 sets were within 1% I stopped spending the $60.

10:1 is still fat so I'd look into pulling more injector out at WOT in all gears. But remember that if you're on a Dynojet, that's not that close to the load you see on the street and a Mustang Dyno is a bit closer but still not as close.

Dynojet ( Wideband will be richest )
Mustang ( Wideband will be rich )
Street ( Widebands truest load reading, of course )

If you have everything the same from your 10:1 reading, I'd be curious to see what it says on the street, could easily be mid 10's in 3rd.
 
I clean the board again but didn't spend much time with it, I bought it from a member a couple years ago but never used due to engine issue. I will check it further. I do have a powerplate. Think an injector could be restricted from sitting over winter? Actually the manifold assembly did sit on a bench for over a year while i did the engine.
 
Usually the injector gets clogged from any fuel debris that makes it past the sock and fuel filter. If you're concerned IMO it's worth spending the $ to get them flowed to know for sure. Caspers Electronics flows injectors and I think a few other shops and members offer this service.
 
The Powerlogger hooks up very easily (no issues the "cable") and you can use a modern laptop. Might be worth getting the injectors flowed. If that one is failing you might be saving yourself your engine!
 
101prf,i would go by the plug readings.if 1 cylinder is lean i dont think you should take fuel out,let alone at 25psi.get some more datalogging and watch things while continuing to check plug readings.it's nice to have the ability to watch things more carefully but it is by no means a failsafe.throw a set of fresh plugs in there,set up the plug gaps and keep the timings low.good luck
 
Just got the Direct Scan working:biggrin:
I don't intend to run it up to 25psi until I get the cylinder issue straight. Would it be worth running an injector cleaner through it and watch the plugs (new plugs of course)? I probably should just pull the injectors, have them check and deal with the down time?
 
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