What broke or went wrong?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

GSGN

Got a thing for G cars!
Joined
Mar 17, 2003
Messages
70
Need some advice. I took my low mileage GN out for some long overdue exercise today. Drove my son to his soccer game and crused at 90 MPH down and back interstate 78. Ran like a top. Got off and went down the mountain on a twisting road for about 4 miles getting on and off the ORIGINAL brakes. Again no problems. Then a pulled into a convienience store to get him a drink and as I pulled into the parking spot, THE BRAKES FAILED:( Fortunately , I was going slow enought that I just hit the curbing. I was truley fortunate this failure had not happened minutes sooner.

I then noticed the Brake light on the dash was lite and the pedal was rock hard. I was down to about 5% of the original braking ability. I was able to hobble home by taking back roads and driving slow enough to nearly coast to a stop. If I put "full force" on the pedal, I could engage the brake but it would still take about 40 ft to stop from 10 MPH. That is how weak the brakes were! So what went on me? That grey switch, the bowl accumulator or the dreaded PowerMaster unit? Again , my car is all original except the battery, exhaust and tires. I should be embarassed to admit this but I am just so used to the car being "like new" (23k miles) that I never even checked the pads or shoes although I do have an appointment to get the brakes done later in July, just as maintenance. Did I wait too long? Could I have actually worn out the pads? Although I heard no stange sounds , I did smell something "burning" ? Obviously , I should pull the wheels but in the meantime would appreciate some thoughts. Thanks
 
probably the accumulator ball. use the search engine or just look at the vacuum brake threads or other powermaster threads below you in this forum. welcome to the world of the most horribly engineered brake system in the universe.
 
Where are you in central NJ? I might as well live on I-78.....I live just west of Clinton. Sorry no words of advice on the brake issue.
 
Originally posted by GSGN
Then a pulled into a convienience store to get him a drink and as I pulled into the parking spot, THE BRAKES FAILED:(

IMO, throw whatever money you want at fixing the PM, and then remove it, and set it on a self. That way if you want to restore it to original, you can. Then buy a vacuum booster, master cylinder, vacuum block and convert over to vacuum brakes.

There's another thread going about who's using vacuum brakes, with all sorts of related data, that you might want to read.
 
I am really trying to keep the car original which is why I prefer not to convert to vacuum. If the first PM lasted me 18 years, I'm ok with a second lasting the same. I know a lot of owners rave about converting but if the car can run on a vacuum system why did GM bother developing the PM in the first place?

Any way to know if I really need to replace the whole damn thing vs. just the ball or the switch (forgot that I actually replaced the accumulator about 5 years ago and although the brake warning light was on I never lost the brakes to the point where I did today). Hate for this to happen at speed.

RAMAIR1. I live east of you and was in your neck of the woods, High Bridge, today.
 
I'm happy to hear you got lucky once with the stock brakes. If you decide to "repair" the powermaster please don't take the children to any more games in that car.
 
most of the time you can get away with just the accumulator and pressure switch, just good luck trying to find them. GM recently discontinued the accumulator and those that have leftover stock have adjusted the prices accordingly. If/when you do the repairs be sure to flush out the brake fluid.
 
Seems I waited to long to change my brake fluid! What is the proper brake fluid to use if I am going to completely flush the system. Can I upgrade?
 
dot 3 or 4 Castrol "LMA" supposedly is the most heat and moisture resistant. You can upgrade to dot 5 silicone but you need to get every last drop out of the system before you do (not compatible with mineral oil fluids)
 
Does "every drop" require more then a complete flush until the new fluid runs out of each wheel or something else?
 
Back
Top