Just put on some M&H Drag radials, and though I thought my tranny was fine (ran a few high 11's less than 1k miles ago, did the dyno less than 500 miles ago) it has now become VERY apparent that my tranny needs some attention. It still launches and pulls very hard right until it shifts or trys to shift into 2nd, it seems to slip all the way until it trys to shift into 3rd, and then flares again. I'm not sure of the exact mileage, but it was rebuilt roughly 10k miles ago. Level 10 shift kit, wider kevlar band, billet servo, art carr clutches. What causes the flare? I have done a tranny service every 2k miles or so, and it has an external cooler. It's never shifted all that hard, but I had thought that was due to the 9x11 converter.
What causes flare?
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Sal Lubrano
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I am far from an expert but from experience these transmissions have to be over filled by about half quart. When the car pulls all the fluid goes to the back and the pump starves causing flare during shifts. I am sure someone with more knowledge can explain better but it has to do with the filter pickup location.
Kevin87TurboT
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Double check the fluid level and the TV cable adjustment. If it's low on fluid or if the cable has slipped, then it will wipe out your transmission very quickly. It may be too late already.
It's too late on that trans anyway, you need to pull it out and resurface the direct drum, install an Alto Red wide band, and probably also install new direct clutches.
Basically a rebuild.
Don't use a Kevlar band... and I would get a different valve body kit.
Basically a rebuild.
Don't use a Kevlar band... and I would get a different valve body kit.
GMV6TURBOPOWER
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i got a level 10 tranny in a car i bought supposedly with 20,000 miles on it when i got it and it is shot.i have not heard good things about them for the 200r4 i would go with ck performance my buddy bison builds trannys and all he uses is ck 's parts besides from what i here he sells parts to some of the other vendors so why not get them direct?
www.CKPerformance.com
www.CKPerformance.com
Don`t pull it yet. Try this first.
One of your main issues is the geometry with your 70mm T-B. (in your sig)
Even if you have a "correctly" set TV cable, the geometry is off from the stock T-B. I see this all the time with a 65 or 70mm unit.
The throttle bracket needs to be modded to keep up with the throttle angle at higher loads.
Bend your throttle bracket towards the front of the car, and verify you can make WOT by moving the throttle with you hand.
I like to see approximatly 1/4 in of the slider (on the TV cable) out for my builds. (reference point)
Even if this works now, with the flare, you may have already caused to much blackening of the steels and clutches . So you may need to pull it. But, maybe you will by yourself some time.
Also, as was mentioned earlier, get rid of the Kevlar band.
It is always a good idea to run these transmissions at least a half quart over full, with a PTS pan this is not needed. But with all others is cheap insurance.
Hope this helps, Brian
One of your main issues is the geometry with your 70mm T-B. (in your sig)
Even if you have a "correctly" set TV cable, the geometry is off from the stock T-B. I see this all the time with a 65 or 70mm unit.
The throttle bracket needs to be modded to keep up with the throttle angle at higher loads.
Bend your throttle bracket towards the front of the car, and verify you can make WOT by moving the throttle with you hand.
I like to see approximatly 1/4 in of the slider (on the TV cable) out for my builds. (reference point)
Even if this works now, with the flare, you may have already caused to much blackening of the steels and clutches . So you may need to pull it. But, maybe you will by yourself some time.
Also, as was mentioned earlier, get rid of the Kevlar band.
It is always a good idea to run these transmissions at least a half quart over full, with a PTS pan this is not needed. But with all others is cheap insurance.
Hope this helps, Brian
Sounds like there are two problems at this point. Drum and band are burned and the 2-3 shift flare. The burned drum and band are from sucking air on a hard launch with the stock pan and filter design. Its worth playing with the a little but i doubt it will help with te symtoms you are having Id use a 700 R-4 filter and overfill one quart if using the stock pan. Better yet go for one of Bruce's sheet metal pans with the well engineered pick up and fiter assembly. If you plan on going further in performance with the car i would go for the billet shafted forward drum and dual feed the direct clutch piston. You can be sure the flare will disappear and you will have a crisp 2-3 shift at WOT. I would use an Alto red wideband for the 1-2, 3-2. You will need a fresh drum if yours is burned. Do a search on dual feed and be sure to fix this right this time around.
thanks for the suggestions. I have added almost another quart of fluid, and checked the TV cable, but haven't taken it for a drive yet. Not really planning on doing anything else to the performance. Would like to have a 11.500 slip at this altitude, but I don't want to hurt the motor trying to get it. And with 154k miles, pushing it that hard would be using borrowed time. I do need to fix a cracked passenger header and thinking I'd try a 67 DBB turbo. But instead of getting the turbo, I'm leaning towards getting a very well built tranny. When I've been at the track, I never remember it ever shifting where I could feel it. Should have kept direct scan, but I never remember the RPM's dropping that much at the shift points.
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