What could I have screwed up?

87-WE2

Back in business!!
Joined
May 17, 2011
Just got finished buttoning down everything on my car. I changed the valve springs with Comp 980's, finally added the RJC ADPP, and changed my FPR from a 237 to an AccuFab adjustable.

Anyway, after I got everything back together, I was super excited to start the car, even though I haven't set the fuel pressure. Anyway, I cranked the car, and it fired like it always has, but only there was a pretty loud popping sound every once in a while. It almost sounded like something whacking the valve covers or something. I did NOT let it run long (maybe 5 seconds), but by the time I turned the key off, it seemed like it might have smoothed out. So I tried to crank it again and no-start. I didn't crank very much on it because I'm worried about what MIGHT have happened to it. Also, there was a slight amount of smoke under the hood for the few seconds that I had it running.

The only things different on the car are the vavle springs, the RJC PP, and the Accufab regulator, and running maybe 2 quarts low on anti-freeze (I removed the coolant lines along the PS VC in order to get better access to remove it). Oh yeah, I did NOT reconnect the factory boost solenoid as it's no longer in use. Could this have a bearing? Do I need a new chip due to the addition of the FPR or PP?

Any ideas on what I might have screwed up? The only thing I can think of is maybe, possibly, the rockers (I looked up torque and set them at 25 ft-lbs), or maybe one of the push-rods wasn't seated correctly. I checked each pushrod before, during, and after the rocker installation to be certain they were in there correctly...I'm sure of it. Can you guys help me come up with some ideas on what it might be?

Should I go ahead and tear it apart again for inspection, or get the FP gauge out, try to set the FP, then worry about it??? I'm starting to get pretty sickabout this, especially since I was very confident that I did everything right during this whole ordeal.

It did take me an extra long time to get this done what with travelling for work. Passenger side is an absolute B!TCH!!
 
1st check for codes.
2nd/If no codes, turn key on, don't start the eng., check and set the f/p to 43#
you may have been too low on the adjustment to begin with.
3rd/remove the suspected v/c w/ the noise. check the pushrods to be set properly in the lifters and rocker arms, valve retainers,etc.
You do not have to worry about a new chip w/the addition of the p/p or the f/p/regulator.
Also check your plugs and wires in case one is damaged by removal and re-installation.
the anti-freeze or boost solenoid should not be a problem.
 
The noise you heard, could it have been the crank sensor getting hit?? Even though you said you didn't work in that area....
 
Here's a video of the car running. This was taken at startup prior to setting fp. Fp is now set to 43 line off.

Checked all plug wires for proper order. Seem to be ok. All plug wires are certainly seated correctly. The bitch cylinder is usually a pita to get on, but i put it on prior to reinstalling the vc. Just to make sure i had it on well.

I havent checked crank sensor. I wasnt anywhere near it. I'll see what i can find. Still idles like hell.

At first i thought the noise i heard was mechanical, but now i'm more convinced that its not. I couldnt feel anything on either vc while it was running. Sounded like it was coming from the intake. It almost sounds like its trying to backfire up the intake. Side note - i did drill a hole in the pp before the install. Diameter = 3/8" as per instructions for EGR. Also, there are no mal codes on the sm. However iac is 0 at idle. Also, when idling, if i try to increase the rpms, i will get the "misfiring" almost evry time. Any thoughts.

Lemme figure out how to post this vid.
 
Pull the v-covers and make sure the pushrods are seated properly and double check that the rocker arms are tight. While your in there check to make sure a v-retainer didn't come off.
I'd hate to damage something in there while trying to figure it out and who knows maybe you'll figure it out while going that deep into it.

ks
 
I've run all the vacuum lines & can't find anything leaking.

I checked all the electrical connections that I played with during the spring swap and PP install.

I have checked, re-checked and re-re-checked the plug wires. My coil (factory set up) looks like this if viewed standing in front of car with hood open:
153
426

I double-double-double checked that the wires properly go from each post to each cylinder:
6 (bitch) --- 5
4 --- 3
2 --- 1

It is firing up through the intake. It is very difficult to start. I have to feather the throttle to find the "sweet spot" for it to finally start up. Once it does finally fire, it will stay running. I have noticed that when it does its popping thing, that the factory boost gauge flickers up to about 6-7.

Anybody else have any other ideas? I'm hoping it's something reallly simple. Could it have anything to do with EGR? I'm about ready to start pulling things off one by one to go back the way it used to be in order to try to figure this out.

Would leaving the wires for the boost solenoid unplugged cause this?
 
What's the fuel pressure read with the line off?
 
Pull the v-covers and make sure the pushrods are seated properly and double check that the rocker arms are tight. While your in there check to make sure a v-retainer didn't come off.
I'd hate to damage something in there while trying to figure it out and who knows maybe you'll figure it out while going that deep into it.

ks
 
Pull the v-covers and make sure the pushrods are seated properly and double check that the rocker arms are tight. While your in there check to make sure a v-retainer didn't come off.
I'd hate to damage something in there while trying to figure it out and who knows maybe you'll figure it out while going that deep into it.

ks

I was thinking the same thing. Pushrod not seated correctly or the keeper not seated.
 
pull your plugs and look very carefully for cracks...will definitely cause a backfire up through the intake, causing your up pipe to blow off and dent your undented hood from the inside!!!:mad::mad::mad:
 
pull your plugs and look very carefully for cracks...will definitely cause a backfire up through the intake, causing your up pipe to blow off and dent your undented hood from the inside!!!:mad::mad::mad:

I remember your post about that! Checked the plugs already.
 
I was thinking the same thing. Pushrod not seated correctly or the keeper not seated.

Thanks guys - I'll go into the VC's tonight and/or tomorrow night to check things out. It seems to have its moments of running fair, but then returns to running poorly. Whenever something like this happens, I always go to second guessing everything I did. This one was pretty easy; there are only two things I can honestly second guess myself on with regards to this job:
1) When putting things back together after adding the PP, I lost one of the mounting screws to the bracket on the TV Cable (one of the ones on the top). I looked all over for it & couldn't find it, but it was lost AFTER the VC's were already buttoned down, so I'm positive it didn't go INSIDE the motor.
2) When installing the last spring on #6 (the one closest to the firewall), I had to compress the spring basically all the way in order to get it (and the spring compressor) to fit over the valve. There is VERY little clearance back there due to the AC stuff and the sheet-metal surround of the AC stuff. I actually considered taking off the sheetmetal, but decided it would be more trouble than to deal with it. Could compressing the shit out of that spring have screwed something up?

The thing that has me puzzled is the IAC sitting at 00 at idle, when before it would camp out at 04 or 05 when idling. I have followed all the vacuum lines under the hood and found no leaks. I didn't go behind the dash to check anything there.

When I installed the PP, I didn't pull the TB or anything off. I basically disconnected the TV bracket, the coolant hoses (which are plugged by PO), and up pipe, then pulled the TB, plenum, and everything attached to it (including TPS and IAC) as a whole unit. Are the TPS and IAC fragile enough that they could've been damaged during this? The thing wasn't moved but a few inches, and I was very careful with it.

Will report back later tonight.

Sorry for the repeated posts - I can't figure out how to quote several different posts within a single post.
 
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