Naw the rotella plus the EOS may be overkill. I would just run a straight weight 30w dino oil...any dino oil with no starburst symbol.
If the motor has been sitting for 7 years, I would spray some marvel mystery oil in all the cylinders, let it sit overnight, and then the next morning, spin the motor over a few revolutions by hand. The rings have probably started to slightly bond to the cylinder walls. If lithium grease was used on the valve stems on assembly (like alot of shops do), I would tear the heads down and get all that crap out. After time that stuff hardens and gets pretty nasty. It will actually cause the valves to stick open. It will turn into a big chunk of carbon on the backs of your valves after running it a little while. You should use heavy racing oil or a little moly lube on the valve stems. Then prelube the motor before firing it up.
Dont just leave it at 2500rpm. Vary it between 2000-3000.
Drain it and change filter. Dump in some 10w-30 dino oil with no EOS.
Make some 10psi runs to a high rpm, which will break in the valve seats properly, and the boost/load will break the rings in.
Drain it, change the filter to a good one, and fill it up with Quaker State "Q" high rpm sythetic blend 10w-30 with half a can of SYN treatment, or the "Q" full synthetic....I run 20W-50. I would use valvoline SYN oil as my 2nd choice, redline as my third and RP as my 4th. After seeing all the test data, I fould there are oils that are way better than RP, and RP is a great oil by itself. Those motors that would tear down looking like new after a whole racing season, used this type of break-in procedure and redline synthetic. This was with .600 lift flat tappet cams with 200+ lbs of seat pressure. If you want to see detailed oil data, go to Virgin Oil Analysis (thread with VOA in the title) ....something like that.
This was the test on the Q high rpm synthetic blend....they named it wrong...called it high hp instead of high rpm. The zinc and phosphorous levels are really high. Add SYN treatment and the whole spectrum will be awesome.Q high rpm
If the motor has been sitting for 7 years, I would spray some marvel mystery oil in all the cylinders, let it sit overnight, and then the next morning, spin the motor over a few revolutions by hand. The rings have probably started to slightly bond to the cylinder walls. If lithium grease was used on the valve stems on assembly (like alot of shops do), I would tear the heads down and get all that crap out. After time that stuff hardens and gets pretty nasty. It will actually cause the valves to stick open. It will turn into a big chunk of carbon on the backs of your valves after running it a little while. You should use heavy racing oil or a little moly lube on the valve stems. Then prelube the motor before firing it up.
Dont just leave it at 2500rpm. Vary it between 2000-3000.
Drain it and change filter. Dump in some 10w-30 dino oil with no EOS.
Make some 10psi runs to a high rpm, which will break in the valve seats properly, and the boost/load will break the rings in.
Drain it, change the filter to a good one, and fill it up with Quaker State "Q" high rpm sythetic blend 10w-30 with half a can of SYN treatment, or the "Q" full synthetic....I run 20W-50. I would use valvoline SYN oil as my 2nd choice, redline as my third and RP as my 4th. After seeing all the test data, I fould there are oils that are way better than RP, and RP is a great oil by itself. Those motors that would tear down looking like new after a whole racing season, used this type of break-in procedure and redline synthetic. This was with .600 lift flat tappet cams with 200+ lbs of seat pressure. If you want to see detailed oil data, go to Virgin Oil Analysis (thread with VOA in the title) ....something like that.
This was the test on the Q high rpm synthetic blend....they named it wrong...called it high hp instead of high rpm. The zinc and phosphorous levels are really high. Add SYN treatment and the whole spectrum will be awesome.Q high rpm
