What primer to use if car will sit out side before ready for paint

[Blown&Injected]

Since I plan to do it one piece at a time, I will need to do something with the newly sanded areas. Some areas will need to go to the metal and some areas seem as if they will be fine by just going through the paint and stopping at the original primer.

Considering the car will be outdoors during the operation that may take a few months what type of primer should I use as I complete the stripping of the parts that go to bare metal, and what is recommended for the parts that just get sanded to the original primer?

Is there a rattle can type primer that will work with very good results? If not, and I must mix every batch, are any of those refillable spray cans that get recharged with compressed air any good?

A friend loves the cans of self etching primer that Eastwood sells, but he is no painter other than detailing small parts.

OK paint masters, I don't want to do all this work and have a procedural error screw me up - clue me in.

Thanks.

 

[Red Regal T]

I think, to do this job as you have described, with no personal paint experience, outside and piece by piece, over a few months, is a big mistake. My advice would be to do the job straight through, indoors.

Do you have any spray equipment? Forget about spray cans. Catalysed PPG epoxy primer is the primer you should use. Also, you don't strip to primer, you strip to bare metal.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Thanks again John.

With all the stuff in my garage, my car will not fit. Even if there was nothing in the garage, because it is just a one-car unit, I do not believe there is enough room to paint anyway. Kinda thinking about a temporary plastic enclosure with a fan and a 3M Filtree type filter when the car is ready to shoot.

I have a compressor/air system. I have not yet picked out a spray gun. - sounds like the topic for another thread.

The only reason I was thinking about the cans is that flat paints like primer seems to be something that blends easy and must be easier than mixing a "real" primer for each panel - that I will do when the entire car is ready to hit.

The plan is to get it all stripped and prime / seal / paint the entire car - The can idea is just a thought to hold the body over until the entire thing is ready for a "real" primer. Since the car will be outside, I will have to put something on the freshly stripped areas but if I will have to strip the can sprayed stuff before the Catalyzed PPG epoxy primer goes on, then I will just have to mix lots of smaller batches of the Catalyzed PPG epoxy primer.

Does this primer get wet sanded and washed before sealer?

 

[kh440]

I agree with Red, not a job for spray cans, PPG DP-50 epoxy primer is the way to go, an etching primer will neutralize any rust spots and seal the metal, but is still porous. You will need an HVLP gun (eastwood offers some fairly good ones) and use an inline water filter at the gun. I would start with some non-obvious locations or even a piece of scrap metal for practice until you get a feel for the gun. Spray 2 light coats of the epoxy primer and wet sand with maybe a 360-400 grit before applying the sealer.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Thanks kh. Looks like I will just mix up several small batches to cover the car as I go. Maybe two very light passes. Wet sand, one more light pass on the entire car at one time and wet sand again.

The few times I have helped paint a car I turned the gun on an old hood to get the feel and mess with the settings on the gun. I will definitely start with some scrap.

Hey John:
About just going to the primer.
I had always heard and believed that it is best to go to the metal; however, I recall reading something about the best base is the coating GM uses to treat the metal and that one should not go to the metal if possible - that is if the original paint is intact.

 

[kh440]

People who know a LOT more than I do about paint work tell me go to bare metal for on ebasic reason-the materiels used today do not always bond well with the primers,sealers, etc used way back when. Tighteneing EPA and OSHA regulations have resulted in re-formulated materials with lower VOC and other hazards.
If still unsure about what to do I think eastwood.com still has some basic "how-to" videos that aren't expensive and will give a a basic understanding of how the process works. good luck

 

[Blown&Injected]

That also makes sense.

My knowledge is limited and obtained in several small chunks over the past 20 years. I certainly have not kept up with the latest and have not learned much about the new materials.

Glad you guys can set me straight!

Thanks again.