What to change next? Please help.

[m6z]

I'm wanting to get in the 10's next spring and am trying to decide what to change next to help get me there. It's a street/strip car that always has 110in the tank. Looking to spend around $2,000-$3,000. I know this combo should be good for mid/low 11's btw this is in a full weight t-type with all options including astro roof. Alum. drums and bumper supports are on the way, not that there going to help much. lol.

Here's my combo.

Rebuilt engine with TRW .030 over pistons, head studs, main studs, billet center main caps, balanced. Ported stock heads and intake manifold. 62mm throttle body. Crane 214/210 hydraulic roller cam, 160 stat, 3" downpipe.

PT63 turbo, CAS V2 front mount.

Dual 340 intank fuel pumps, hotwire kit, 50lb injectors, accufab regulator, lubrant 100 octane chip.

Brian Hofer 2004r w/brake & Pats 3400 lock up converter. < just installed

So what should I change???????????

TA headers and a precesion gt6776 ball bearing turbo? fast xfi?

 

[RUQWKNF]

There are two things I would suggest as you have a combo that has proven to be able to go deep into the mid 10s.

1. Get an alky kit, some 60# Mototrons and matching alky chip from Turbo Tweak so you don't have too keep spending buku money on race gas and you can have the boost turned up enough to realize 10 second power at all times. The PT63 on your combo needs to be run up to 26-28psi to be killer. Depending on the compressor cover and turbine housing it has, it's good for anywhere from 690-720 flywheel hp when maxed out, which is plenty for mid 10s with a good tune and traction. With only having ported and polished stock iron heads, this would be the biggest advantage you could do for the combo and not have to pay outrageous sums of money for race gas. You only have enough injector with the 50s to support 600 flywheel hp, but you have more combo and turbo than that.

2. Work on your suspension, body stiffening and weight loss program. Get the right parts so that you will be able to hook up the power that the 63 turbo can support, as well as all the body bushings and frame braces so you don't twist it all into a pretzel. Then take out the weight. Back seat floor mats and back seat seat belts. Sound deadening material under the back seat, junk in the trunk, un-necessary items in the car, CDs can stay tho. Remember when it comes to weight loss, ounces are pounds, they all add up.

You have a very nice combination, don't fall into the bigger is better trap, or the next thing you know, you'll have a monster turbo on the car and it will be a race car. And, as always, "Racecar spelled backwards, will always be racecar."
And last but not least, make sure you have enough scantool equipment to properly tune your car and tune tune tune...

Just my O2's worth.

Patrick

 

[m6z]

Ok, sounds good. I guess I'll get the injectors ordered and quit being such a pu$$y and turn up the boost.:smile:

Thanks for the help,
Doug

 

[RUQWKNF]

It's not really a factor of being afraid to turn up the boost, even if you swapped out turbos, you would still need to turn up the boost to the 25-28psi range to reach mid 10s reliably. Even with a 70mm turbo, those boost levels would be similar. Getting those injectors and a TT race chip will allow you to fully and safely explore the boost curve, vs having to call it quits with the 50#ers and boost at only 22psi. Here's one more tip, I would highly recommend that you have Eric put your default fueling under WOT at 80% duty cycle and the highest setting at 100% duty cycle. This way, if the car is too rich, you can simply take fuel out of the WOT setting, but once you start turning up the boost, you will need the extra duty cycle in the chip. Tell him your complete combo and he'll get you straight. Also, with the race chip, you can still turn down not only the fuel, but also the timing if you want to turn the boost down and want to ride around on pump gas or even 100 octane.

If you stock headers are in good shape and not cracked, then keep them and upgrade your crossover pipe to a SS 2.5" crossover. Stock headers are good down into the very low 10s. The crossover pipe is an easy bolt on upgrade for $99.00. You don't have to have an XFI to run anywhere in the 10s. TT chip for now if your MAF is in good shape. And if and when it does take a dive, then a Translator Pro setup without having to run the MAF would be the next logical step.
HTH

Patrick

 

[87NAT]

Patrick is right on the money about alky...you cant go wrong. You are set to kill all the time on pump gas....

Look at the times that were just run with alky and pump gas..high 9's

 

[brian]

I think you have some nice parts there.:smile:
That I-C is my all time favorite on a "medium" car.

Like Patrick said... I would do an injector upgrade, as well.
60ft`s will become the most important thing. If you run 110 all the time, you should be able to creep up on 24 psi or darn close depending on your compression.

Add a bit of tuning, and about 24psi should get you really close to the 10`s IMO, but 60ft`s will be the deciding factor.

Brian

 

[m6z]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm still kinda looking at the fast xfi, just seams like it will take alot of the guess work and tuining time of switching it back and forth between race fuel and alky/pump gas. Still kinda leary on the alky, I've seen some bad **** happen with to much bost and alky over at ls1tech.com.

Just not really wanting to spend another $700 for injectors/chip/data logger and still be using the stock ecm. I've allready had one take a dump on me and who know how long the maf will last. I allready have a innovate wideband o2 and a scanmaster I figured I could make a few bucks on to help with the cost of the xfi. Also just bought a Toshiba amd dual processor laptop, so i shouldn't have any prob. running the xfi.

One more question guys. What plugs would you guys run in a combo like this? Does anyone run ac delcos in these cars? When I bought the car it had autolites in it(still does), just wasn't sure what direction to go.

 

[87NAT]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm still kinda looking at the fast xfi, just seams like it will take alot of the guess work and tuining time of switching it back and forth between race fuel and alky/pump gas. Still kinda leary on the alky, I've seen some bad **** happen with to much bost and alky over at ls1tech.com.

Too much bad stuff with alky??? Too much boost with race gas will net the same result.

 

[m6z]

Correct, but your not going to be able to run 26-28psi with alky and pump gas are you? I don't know, that why I'm asking. It just seams that race fuel is more error proof.

 

[87NAT]

I have run 27 psi before with 0 degrees of knock. I do not set it at that all the time but it can be done. Many on the boards here have done the same. I dont want to start another "Whos better race gas vs alky" argument by any means...I am just putting my 2 cents in.

I ran 110 octane all the time in my car for 3 years. It was way to expensive but I wanted the 23-25 psi capability all the time. Alky has let me do that on a day to day basis without breaking my wallet or killing 02 sensor.

Even with race gas accidents can happen. Example: Boost set @ 28 psi, 116 octane, vacuum line pops off of FP regulator at the top of the quarter mile, car leans out, air/fuel wideband numbers spike to 19.3 Result:melted piston. Seen it first hand. It wouldnt have mattered if it was alky injected..it would have done the same thing.

P.S.- It wasnt my car.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Correct, but your not going to be able to run 26-28psi with alky and pump gas are you? I don't know, that why I'm asking. It just seams that race fuel is more error proof.

You would be very surprised to know exactly how many people are doing just that with Razors' alky kit. I intend to be one of them here soon with my car. Seeing as the price of 10 gallons of C16 is now $114.00+/- some change, it just doesn't make sense.



On production iron heads, whether they be untouched or fully ported, I've always recommended and currently use Autolite #23 gapped at a tight .032 gap if boost is below 28psi. If boost will be over 28psi, I tighten up the gap to .030. This is with the stock C3I ignition system. Some people swear by AC Delco, but I've had my best success and results using Autolite plugs.

GN-1 aluminum heads, I used Autolite # 103 with the same gaps and same conditions. There are also some Autolite Race series plugs that worked very good on my Stage II setup with GN-1s, but they are not very street friendly.

M&A Aluminum Stage III heads I used AC Delco FR1LS plugs with the same gaps and same conditions.

HTH

Patrick

 

[m6z]

back from the dead. lol. finially got to the track, no changes to the combo yet. Going to try and wait till spring untill I start changing things. Thanks to Patrick and all the others that gave their advice. I'll be going with the 60lb injectios and alky or a fast xfi and alky next year.

Boost set at 23 lbs w/110 in the tank. Haven't put gas in it since I orginally started this thread, just haven't had the time to drive the car.

Made four passes at the midnight drags @ tulsa raceway park. < No 60 ft. info, they don't give time slips at the midnight drags.

The first two passes were on new 26x10.5 et streets. Seemed to hook up okay, but it was very windy and the car was real loose with the pressure set at 15 and 13 psi. Car went 12.73? and 12.54 letting out of it on the big end.

Next two passes I put my street tires/wheels back on. 275/40/17 bfg drag radials. Left at 5psi off the brake, car spun pretty hard out the hole, but went 12.08 and then 11.95. < first 11 second pass, so I'm stoked.

mph was around 116-117 on all passes. going to ditch the et streets and order some 275/50/15 mt et street radials and see if I can better my times befor winter.

Thanks for all the input,
Doug