what's everyone doing to be in the 11.50-10.80 range?

[BG86]

Just curious to see what everyone is doing to get into area. I don't really care about going no faster at the moment just enough to be fun still.

 

[GerrywithaG]

http://www.alkycontrol.com/

 

[BG86]

I know it has to be more then just alky

 

[coach]

Look up "Project Rusty Silver Bullet"...

 

[BG86]

Alright

 

[Pronto]

Much will depend on your driving and tuning skills of a TB. Some do it with less, most need quite a few mods to make the car reliable. I feel significant fuel system upgrades are mandatory. As you make more and more hp you will find the weakest parts in your combo.

 

[bison]

That's a wide range. $8-10k separates the 11.50 from the 10.80 if built on a reliable combo. Not too difficult to go 11.50 fairly reliably with fuel system, some trans work, turbo, 110 octane, open exhaust, drag radials, and some practice. To go 10.80 reliably you will need much more. Some will get it done with a lot less than others. Throwing parts at the car won't usually work. Spending the time to make what you have work and pick a few select new parts will get you results a lot faster believe it or not.


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[BG86]

I will have to do this correctly

 

[TexasT]

Just curious to see what everyone is doing to get into area. I don't really care about going no faster at the moment just enough to be fun still.

What are you using for mods/parts now?
As above, seek out the builds that you know have "laid down the number" and see what they are using. Power, traction, and the supporting parts to make it reliable.
At a minimum you need the fuel to power it. This might be e85, high octane race fuel or an alcohol kit to enable you to get the boost up to make the power. This takes into account your engine is in good shape, has good compression and you can tune for no spark knock for the boost you want to run.
Traction could mean some sticky dot tires, drag slicks(most tracks will want to see a drive shaft loop) or a full on rework of your suspension(front too) for the tire of your choosing.
This gets us to reliability. As above, once you start to go to the track you will find the car's weaknesses. If you cant or don't tune, I would bet on a head gasket or three. Then there is the bearings that take a beating if you are knocking. You wont see that until a rod exits or the crank splits. The trans will exhibit degrading shifts the more power you apply and the more wear the clutches endure. The rear end is pretty stout but even they have their limits. If i had my eye on the tens some axle retention and new axles might be on my charted plan. If it is a high mile car and you know a full rebuild is in order an axle swap to a nine inch and mothball the original would be the way I would go so it didn't become a money pit. Same could be said for the engine and trans if you planned on restoring it "some day".

The old saying, "speed cost money, how fast do you wanna go?", definitely applies here.

 

[Reggie West]

You can get there with the following.

Ported and polished heads. Or just go with aluminum heads.

Roller cam,212/212 or better, matching springs, I like the beehive springs, rockers to match.

Turbotweak chip. Alky set up. Hot wire kit and the correct pump. You don't need the alky if you run E85.

At least a mod to the stock intercooler or stock location and or front mount.

The stock trans may not hold up to 11.50 runs no matter what. when it goes rebuild it with the right converter.

The stock rear end will be ok but get a set of slicks to run on the track. Read upon air bags.

You can do all of the above on a stock block and work down to 11.50

As has been said you will need to optimize the combo by slowly working up to the 11.50.

The 10.80 will require forged parts. A forged rotating assembly will cost about $1600 for the parts. You can use the stock block to get to your goal. Girdle on the block is not necessary but if you are going faster you might need it.

There are some details I left out but this is most of it.

 

[scojack_2001]

My GN was running 11.50s all day long with not much done to it.

TE-62, Dutt neck IC, 3400 stall, some trans work (not much, just basic stuff), Walbro 255 w/ MSD50s, ATR bar, W/B, just your basic average street car. Not much in there rear, just a posi/axle upgrade due to clutch failure in the G80. Boxed stock LCAs and stock uppers. Usually goes low 1.6 60's. Roughly 27psi on alcohol.

This was with a stock, unopened motor with valve springs and a timing chain. It ran great and I drove it everywhere.

Freshened the motor and added ported irons and a roller cam, and it went 10.97@123. Still on the TE-62, Dutt neck, and 3400 stall ProTorque. Still stock intake/plenum/TB. My car doesn't have many "cool guy" parts. And I like it that way.

 

[bison]

Letting off at approximately the 500 ft mark


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[pacecarta]

tried that , lifted at about 700' , rode the brake and then locked it at the line ...still went 10.2 @90.5

 

[Jerryl]

Letting off at approximately the 500 ft mark
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tried that , lifted at about 700' , rode the brake and then locked it at the line ...still went 10.2 @90.5

Lol.

 

[TexasT]

Showoffs! Haha

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[bison]

tried that , lifted at about 700' , rode the brake and then locked it at the line ...still went 10.2 @90.5

Getting close to needing the chute. If our cars weighed what your typical Honda Civic street race car weighs a chute would be needed


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[pacecarta]

goal over the winter is get the ttop down into the mid 3100's ..with driver

 

[V6POWER]

My combo is fairly simple and based on 1/8 mile et, it should run in the 10's.

 

[delcowizzid]

we just went 10.8@127mph off the foot brake at 3400lb. high km 88 lesabre LN3 FWD motor, turbo350,2nd hand B&M 3000rpm nitrous holeshot convertor,222@0.050 .495 lift cam factory old roller lifters and 135Lb valvesprings,holset H1E 58mm inducer compressor jammed in a 0.84 turbine housing,chinese 300mmx450mmx76mm front mount cooler 3.45 diff, 10.5x26x15 M&H DOT slick, 19psi of boost .runs on 110/130 avgas no alky.total spent including the car US$3900 .now we have to cage it damn 10 second passes LOL time for cage ported heads and turbo upgrade see if we can do 9's on stock non-turbo internals

 

[ZNix]

goal over the winter is get the ttop down into the mid 3100's ..with driver

I need the recipe...

For the OP, I went 11.3 at 120MPH at 26PSI with a pretty simple combo. Nothing crazy. I am hoping to break into the 10s this year with some changes.

My combo: Stock short block/ Cam, 6176E Turbo, As cast GN1 heads, matched ports to GN1s on intake, 3" THDP, Stretch SLIC, Methanol, 60lb Injectors, Walbro 340lph pump (hotwired), 9x11 Stall converter and built trans. For the suspension I have air bags in the rear springs, stock sway bar. Adjustable upper control arms and lower control arms. My best time was on a Nitto NT555r which produced a 1.72 60-foot.

I think this could easily be done on stock heads, but with a little more boost. Good luck! You can feel free to PM me any questions.