Where can I get a 2.375 Roughing Mill?

[KEVINS]

For you machinist out there where can I get a 2.375" diameter roughing end mill? I don't want to spend a bunch of $$$ if possible. MSC doesn't have anything, so where else can I get them?

Or is there a better tool to notch the end of 1.25 OD x .120 wall 4130 tubing?

thnx
Kevin

 

[coach]

If you are needing a 2 3/8 diameter cutter, that means it is being mated up to 2 3/8 diameter tubing??? What are you using 2 3/8 diameter tubing for??? If your caging your car, there is a notching fixture that uses a bi-metal hole saw and tips on any angle you need it to. To answer your question, a hole saw mounted in a drill press with a good solid way to hold the pipe works great. An end mill will chatter like crazy. It needs run too slow and takes too big of a cut. The hole saw runs faster and cuts better.

 

[Mike E]

Is this going on a rearend housing? That's all I can think of on a car that might be that large. A 2.375" roughing mill would probably be over $1000, and have an integral 50 taper shank. You'll never find one with a shank small enough to fit in a bridgeport.

I use holesaws whenever possible. But when I do use an endmill, I sometimes use one a little small and interpolate. Ie: to make a 1.625" notch, I use a 1.5" rougherl. After feeding it in .8125" in X, I back up .0625 and feed in .0625 in +y and -y. That gets you very very close. You could do the same with a 1" and just interpolate a few degrees each way. If you have a DRO, you can use the hole pattern function to help you. Just subtrace the cutting tool diameter from the desired notch diameter to get the correct bolt hole diameter.

 

[Mike E]

I also like to notch in my lathe. I built this tube vise to replace the compound on my lathe and it is the way to go. Powerfeed

 

[coach]

Is this going on a rearend housing? That's all I can think of on a car that might be that large. A 2.375" roughing mill would probably be over $1000, and have an integral 50 taper shank. You'll never find one with a shank small enough to fit in a bridgeport.

I use holesaws whenever possible. But when I do use an endmill, I sometimes use one a little small and interpolate. Ie: to make a 1.625" notch, I use a 1.5" rougherl. After feeding it in .8125" in X, I back up .0625 and feed in .0625 in +y and -y. That gets you very very close. You could do the same with a 1" and just interpolate a few degrees each way. If you have a DRO, you can use the hole pattern function to help you. Just subtrace the cutting tool diameter from the desired notch diameter to get the correct bolt hole diameter.

They make them with 3/4 and 1 inch shanks, but they are tool steel only, not carbide or anything special. Let me check on Monday, I got some big ones. I know 2 1/8 but I do not know if I have bigger at my shop.

 

[KEVINS]

I'm making LCA's with poly bushings on one end and the tube is 2.375 OD that the bushings fit into. I had a quote to have the tubing made with the notches and the price was reasonable but I want to see if I can do it myself for the first few hundred or so.
I suppose I can use a hole saw in my mill but my experience with hole saws is that they don't last long and I don't know if there are any good ones that will cut a lot of 4130. The wall thickness is only .120 so maybe that will work.

Are there "good" hole saws that will work?

Kevin

 

[Mike E]

Starrett saws last for quite a while with coolant and the correct rpm and feed.

The notch will be so shallow you could probably cut them with a rigid boring bar setup..

 

[ttaowner]

WHAT ABOUT CHECKING WITH TOOL RESHARPENING SHOPS. I AM A MACHINIST AND ONCE A END MILL GETS DULL OR CHIPPED WE SEND THEM OUT FOR RESHARPENING NOT SURE IF IT CAN BE DONE WITH A ROUGHING MILL BUT THEY MAY BE ABLE TO GIVE YOU A BETTER BREAK THAN BUYING NEW.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I built a lot of torque arms for F bodies, upper and lowers for Buicks. I used 2"x .120 wall, 2" end tubes with Energy bushings.
All were notched with a Joint Jigger and the drill press. I bought good quality hole saws. Had no problem getting a reasonable life out of them.

 

[KEVINS]

I built a lot of torque arms for F bodies, upper and lowers for Buicks. I used 2"x .120 wall, 2" end tubes with Energy bushings.
All were notched with a Joint Jigger and the drill press. I bought good quality hole saws. Had no problem getting a reasonable life out of them.

Thanks Chuck,
I see that they have two versions of the Joint Jigger, which one do you recommend?
http://www.jointjigger.com/

ks

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Thanks Chuck,
I see that they have two versions of the Joint Jigger, which one do you recommend?
http://www.jointjigger.com/

ks

I use the alum frame unit. It seems to be a more rigid frame, and tends to have less vibration...