Which braces should i get? Will they help a sloppy suspension?

"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Thinking of getting these braces....

Reproduction UNDER-THE-HOOD BRACE KIT PART 6744 For 1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX

Reproduction REAR SEAT FRAME BRACE KIT PART 1586 For 1978-1984-1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX

CONNECTING FRONT BRACE #6756 For 1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX

FRONT FRAME BRACES (2) #6564 For 1978-1984-1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX

Ok, my car ISN'T a T top car. It's just a driver. With a sloppy suspension. It's stock, still has the stock front and rear sway bars, stock control arms, stock 15X7 rims....

I don't think for one second the braces would be a total cure-all for my sloppy suspension....but would any of these aid in any type of assistance in the suspension handling?

I have heard a few of these prevent frame flex...does frame flex contribute to bad body roll?

Are there ANY of these braces I should not invest in????


I'm on a budget here so I'd like to get the best bang for the buck if at all possible.

Unless I should purchase new shocks...:confused:
 
The rear seat brace kit helped take the squirrly feeling out of the back end when I installed them. The front frame braces also helped stiffen up the front end feel some. My car is a hard top also.
 
chassis bracing

I would do them in this order:
-behind the rear seat
-front frame braces
-connecting brace
-under hood braces (the only ones I do not have yet)

just my opinion...
 
The triangle brace in the first link, is that the same as the braces in the third and fourth links I posted, when the two are put together?
 
Thanks I see the pics....

117767992308_0_BG1.jpg
 
You're welcome. Sorry I didn't know how to post the picture. You'll notice a huge difference with that...
 
How much of a difference?

Car has excessive body roll and there are rattles and such....

I've heard the braces help rid the rattles.....wonder if they help the body roll any?

Funny thing is I've got front and rear sway bars. Had an A body once with just a front sway bar, felt like the car was going to roll over rounding a curb....added a new front and rear sway bar and it helped alot.
 
A thicker rear bar will flatten the car more.
The jounce bars will tighten up the front end for going over bumps and such...
The rear seat braces will tie the back end together like a tiny rear strut brace, it'll transfer the energy across the braces instead of 'tweaking' the body when you've encountered a bump.
Excessive body roll can be attributed to swaybars and springs not working in unison, along with larger sidewalls.
The other braces will help with the creaking and groaning. Not to mention a full GNX-type body bushings.
I'm no SCCA guy, I'm just going off things that I've read over 10 years ago...
Join up with corner-carvers.com and research their archives. BTW, they don't like noobs over there, so research very well before you ask a question...
 
Body roll is only going to be controlled through use of lowering springs/spindles, or stiffer springs, and a good combination of anti-roll bars. Tire sidewall doesn't play a part in "body" roll, just in handling in general. Lowering your CG is the biggest factor in controlling body roll. Good shocks and springs help a lot. My Bilsteins were a huge improvement. Car feels planted and stable at 120+.

That said, the rear cross braces are no snake oil. I felt the difference the day I put mine on. (Also a hard top here...) Took away a lot of the rattles and tightened up the feeling of control of the rear.
I have the front braces as well, and they do help, just not as noticed as the rear brace. I don't have the upper fender braces (which yeah, you can find on some Grand Prix and MCSS I believe...). They get in the way of my top and side terminal battery. If you only have side terminals, they will be ok. Not for top post batteries from what I've seen of them.
 
The V and cross brace in yellow there really help the front end of the car. :cool:

They are not a replacement for decent shocks however. ;)

I have stock springs, swaybar, and bilsteins up front and noticed a big difference with the cross brace and have had the V braces for many years.

Make sure the control arm bushings are good up front, and shocks are cheap enough too but are only needed if yours are totally shot.

Stock body bushings on both cars too, but the braces do work and are noticeable with decent working stock stuff. :)
 
You say "sloppy" suspension. Before spending money on any braces or sway bars or aftermarket parts, Id HIGHLY SUGGEST having your front end components inspected................

My WE4 has no bracing at all, and its quiet as a mouse and solid.

Just my .02
 
Yes Neil I said "sloppy". As in squeaky creaky mushy weeble wobble.

But also I've been told the braces, you really want to have on these cars.
 
Okay,

Squeaky/Creaky is easy. Lube your coil spring seats, control arm bushings, etc.

Mushy/Weeble is easy too. Measure the ride height of your vehicle on each corner. Determine if your coil springs are showing signs of age. Shocks are also a easy ride quality improvement. Shocks go bad all the time. I put a set of brand new SensaTrac's all the way around my WE4, 9K miles later the rears were leaking and shot.............causing noises and poor ride quality.

Wobble, dont forget to check the condition of your tires and balance them. Tire pressures also play a huge role in this. Tires are often overlooked.

Just so I am clear, Im not trying to be a dick, Im simply trying to help you stay on that "budget". Why spend money on stuff you dont "need"? :wink:

Braces and everything from your first post are important, but not as important as a safe and functioning suspension and steering system.

HTH:D
 
Tires are balanced. Pressures are checked.

Shocks....I believe to check you can push down on the bumper and see if it comes back up and stops...???

One of the board members here advised in an email to install the brace kit unless I want cracked b pillars.

I can understand spending money only where needed.
 
Just trying to help...........

You can make nearly all of those braces with about 10 ft of 1/2" conduit, a drill, a grinder, and a hammer.

Yes, with enough power and prolonged abuse, you can tear or crack your B-pillars..................
 
And if you do decide to make them don't use EMT conduit use the thicker stuff that is harder to find, every electrical supply house should have it and most have a cash counter you could buy some at.

Not sure if Home Depot etc. sells it.
 
I got all three angle and cross brace from the junk yard for less than 30 bucks..makes it alot more solid feeling, came off of a grand prix and the angle braces from a monte, before i just had all new Bilstiens and suspension bushings etc replaced but after the braces...has alot better handling feel to it. Im running a FMIC so i had to flip the cross brace around to fit. but no clearence issues if your running a stock IC.
 
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